A MUST READ for Oil Temps for Tracking

[X25]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

12 so it would be 10/11/12 model years.

I have 1SS '14 with no center console gauge, and the dashboard is confirmed to be diverging most of the time on my setup, except in 250-275 degrees range whenever I hit it. I measure the oil coming from the block, so it should be close, if not same as the temps read by OEM sensor. My observations are here (posts 136 and 137):
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...29#post8052429

[12-motorsports]

A few have asked for details of my build list. Here are the ones related to coolers' jobs.

Engine Oil Cooler Jeg's 555-51705
Engine Oil Cooler Thermostat Adapter Improved Racing EGM-113
Engine Oil Cooler Lines & Fittings Improved Racing Various (-10 AN)
Transmission Cooler ADM ADM-TRANSCOOLER
Transmission Cooler Lines & Fittings Summit Racing Various (-6 AN)
Transmission Cooler Fan & Thermostat Summit Racing Various (Fan: FLD-FHP34107)
Transmission Dip Stick B&M BMM-22168
CN Series Interceptor Gauge Aeroforce CN101
Interceptor Gauge Sensors, etc Aeroforce Various (3/8" NPT Temp Sensors)
Gauge Pod SLP 90554

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by X25

I have 1SS '14 with no center console gauge, and the dashboard is confirmed to be diverging most of the time on my setup, except in 250-275 degrees range whenever I hit it. I measure the oil coming from the block, so it should be close, if not same as the temps read by OEM sensor. My observations are here (posts 136 and 137):
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...29#post8052429

Originally Posted by X25

Today, I drove to work in Seattle downtown, passed through a billion road cracks, and then drove 250 miles to Oregon for tomorrow's track day. Perhaps I was a bit too early on thinking Z/28s are very comfortable. They were more nervous in Seattle downtown with its under-maintained roads.

On my way to Oregon, they were not bad at all, but there was a part of road where it was very wavy, and I was definitely 'riding the wave' Good, that means I kept my contact with the road patch; what it needs to do.

I have monitored the oil temps during the whole trip. A few remarks:

• The oil temp took way longer than what the dash display suggested to warm up. It stayed around 70 degrees for the first few minutes, whereas the dash already got 120+. When it finally got to 100 degrees 10 minutes into my commute, the dash was displaying 190+. I think it took about 15 minutes of minimal RPMs at commute to warm up (most of it @65 MPH @6th gear). It was cold out at around 50 degrees. I think the oil cooler is still cooling quote a bit even when thermostat is shut.
• On my way to Oregon, the oil temp stabilized at around 175 degrees. It climbed up to 190s climbing mountains, and got to as low as 140s when traveling at 55MPH @40 degrees ambient. Please note all these temps are below the thermostat's 215 degree setting. Another forum member was suggesting that the oil flows at about 10% rate when the thermostat is shut. It made me think perhaps the flow is more than enough to prevent oil from being to 200s. I suppose my oil cooler is a little too big
• During the trip, even though my gauge constantly moved around as I went up and down the passes and hills, the factory display was usually rock solid at 210.

Originally Posted by X25

Just uploaded the video from the today's track day.

A few remarks regarding this trip and the car setup:

• Improved my time by about 1 second to 1:57.25. That said, I was not impressed by Hankook RS3s. They were not awful at anything, but they did not feel great, either. I think my car could use a lot more tire today.
• I could not improve my braking as I thought I would. I just could not stay in my seat. I need to install the harness.
• The camber marks on the tires were still not hit. Perhaps I should have decreased my tire pressures even further. Oh well, I'll try next time (if there's a next time this season).
• The StopTech brakes worked like a champ. No issues, consistent pedal feel, even after my 1-hour-long torture sessions. Wheels were completely covered with dust, though.
• The new brake ducting layout worked perfect! It never ever rubbed, and did not get malformed by any means. I am very happy with the results, and will introduce this layout (that I learned from other members) to the how-to post I wrote.
• Oil temps still hit 290 degrees! It did not get to more than that, but it is pretty disappointing. You can see the oil temp gauge from the video when the shifter is at 2nd or 4th gears.
• The OEM oil temp gauge was off by a big margin most of the time EXCEPT in the range of 250-275 degrees F. At this range, it was perfectly following my aftermarket gauge; this cannot be a coincidence. So there you have it, you can trust your gauge when it shows around this range :P To read above 266, you will need to read it from OBD II (using a Bluetooth ELM327 OBDII reader looks to be the best solution).
• On my way back with the speed controlled by cruise control at 6th gear 99% of the time, the oil temp hovered in 150-175 degrees range. Considering thermostat is supposed to keep it at 215 degrees F, this is also disappointing :P Can 10% flow allowed by the thermostat (when it's supposedly off) really cool it down that much? Since my engine oil will see 280-290 degrees F every once in a while, it's not a big deal, but it's still unexpected.

This is what I would expect, but does not match at all to the OP's data. We need to think this through.

[X25]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

This is what I would expect, but does not match at all to the OP's data. We need to think this through.

I don't have 2SS package, so I can't comment on gauges. As far as I understand, one major difference is that OP's oil temp sensor is at the output of the oil cooler, meaning it's the oil just cooled down by the oil cooler, not the hot oil that's about to be cooled, so it does not represent the oil temps being hit in the engine, but is rather an indicator for oil cooler's performance.

I was disappointed by my oil cooler's performance. I am wondering if it was expected, or if I need to do something different. You can see the location I chose, etc. here: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=381050

[Zslash28]

Cliff notes please?

[BaylorCamaro]

Curious if you are doing any oil analysis?

I did an oil analysis after a track day (about 5, 25 minute sessions) + ~2,000 miles. The oil was Mobil 1 5w30, oil analysis came back that the oil was nearly new.

I am about to send off my oil again, however this go around has 2 track days (each track day had about 6, 30 minute sessions) +~3,000 miles. I switched to Pennzoil Ultra 10w30.

[JusticePete]

FYI --

I have a number of friends in engineering at GM that also run various racing classes in their personal / private vehicles. They all run Mobil 1. Arrington Performance has been building engines for various NASCAR classes for a long time. They run nothing but Mobil 1.

[hcsi99]

I've done some poking around and having been able to find anything, but where is the ideal place to put the temp sensor to get an accurate reading? On one hand it's nice to see how much the cooler cools the oil before in get put back in to the engine, but on the other hand how quickly does the oil heat back up once it get put in to the engine? On the other hand it seems to make sense to see what temp the oil is at when it coming out of the engine and getting ready to go back in to the cooler, but how long has that oil been in the engine to get to that temp? I'd also like to say huge thanks to 12-motorsports, and to X25 for taking the time and money to do the oil cooler set ups you have, and report back the data you've gathered.

[X25]

I think it makes most sense to measure the oil temp in the sump (after it drained through hot engine parts). It will still not be as hot as the max temps it sees around the pistons, but will hopefully be close enough. This is also where most cars get their readings. Alas, I would not want to drill a hole just for this on the pan.

The output from the engine to the cooler is almost identical to what you would read at the sump, but probably only when the thermostate is fully open. It would be nice to see how much the oil cooler cools it down to in the return line, but it does not represent anything about what temps you hit in the engine.

Since we install the oil cooler adapters upside down due to clearance issues on our cars, my thermostat was on the return line from the oil cooler, and since my oil cooler is huge, it was allowing high temps in the sump before it gets cooled down to 215 degrees by the time it hits the return line (my stupid thermostat starts closing around 230). I am getting an adapter with no thermostat and also a wax for 180 degrees being overnighted to me. I will choose and try one of them at the track, hopefully this weekend! If my oil temps drop by 30-40 degrees just by this change, I will have proven that installing the oil cooler adapter upside down (and thereby regulating temp of oil cooler return instead of oil cooler intake line) is a big evil

[White_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

FYI --

I have a number of friends in engineering at GM that also run various racing classes in their personal / private vehicles. They all run Mobil 1. Arrington Performance has been building engines for various NASCAR classes for a long time. They run nothing but Mobil 1.

Mobil1 5/30?

[X25]

I finally was able to install the oil cooler adapter upright, and it seems to be working much better now. During my highway stress tests, it stabilized at 233 degrees, and I could not exceed it. Looking forward to testing it out at the track, hopefully this Saturday.

[BaylorCamaro]

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

Mobil1 5/30?

I would think it would be a heavier oil. I am hesitant to run 5w/30 down here in Texas in the summer for track days.

[X25]

I use Mobil1 0W-40, and I'm happy with it so far. To be honest, the only oil that I ever got disappointed with was Royal Purple that I used on my STi. It literally broke down and was like water when we drained it. My other favorite (that I also used on LS engines, namely my C6 Z06 and C6 Grand Sport) is Rotella T6 5W-40. I am merely using Mobil1 0W-40 this time since it's the spec fill for Euro-market Corvettes, so I doubt GM could claim oil choice was the reason if something ever happens to the engine.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

Mobil1 5/30?

Arrington built engines run Mobil 1 15/50