Billet Cap install question

[blazzin1]

Originally Posted by 376LS3

Because I cant have the car down to pulll the diff and send it out. Was just thinking I could buy a new diff for $1600, put caps in it, and have a stout brand new diff for $1750

I understand the downtime issue. Which is why you need to find a reputable shop in your local area that is capable of doing the work. It will take them one day. If I can find a trustable shop in Fargo, ND....I am very certain there are better shops in Austin!!! Do some research, go to a drag strip and ask around. I'm sure you can find somebody, Austin is a pretty big city!!!

And if you did just replace the main caps, you would still have the semi-crappy factory posi-unit in that new rear end that is susceptible to breakage with the little spider gears and clutches. Get the TrueTrac!!!

None, I dont have any diff experience. Ill take it out, but thats the extent of the work I can do! Lol!

As I said, If you can pull the pumpkin, and just take it up to a shop, they can swap out the gears. That's what I did. I don't have any gear experience either, but I was able to remove/reinstall the pumpkin, and I was able to remove the old carrier/gear assembly. So, I just brought my new parts and a nearly empty pumpkin to them (still had the pinion gear in it), and they installed all the new parts and set-up the gears. Of course, that will probably take more than one day if you're going to pull the parts yourself. So, your only other option is just to find a local shop and have them do all the work complete.

I havent heard of too many reputable shops around Austin to take it too. I was originally looking into the Lashway and Jannettys exchange programs, but like I said, that gets expensive when you start shipping a big heavy box. If I were to do a Jannetty rebuild with Eaton/3.91/install kit/caps, is there anything in the case that is used?? Since its not my diff hes rebuilding, Im just worried about getting parts back that have high mileage back and more suseptible to break.

Once the carrier (a.k.a. posi-unit), ring gear, pinion gear, and main caps are removed, there is nothing left in the case....it's empty after that. I also chose to get new pinion and carrier bearings from the dealership.

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[SC2150]

The billet caps need to be installed, tightened, and measured then subtract what you find so that when macined you end up with 3.062 as the final ID. So if you find your say 3.150 you subtract 3.062 from this and end up with .088 to mill. Mark each R & L incase they differ as the stock caps are line bored when the housing is machined originally. We see most w/in a thou or two which is pretty good.

[Irnwkrkev]

Originally Posted by Chris82xx

The Hammerhead is a pricey unit. Which is why I didn't buy one, but rather built my existing stock unit to match the Hammerhead. The only difference between my unit and the Hammerhead is the casing and diff cover. At the end of the day you're talking about about $2000 out the door to have it built with all the same parts.

Not to knock it, because I plan on building up my stock diff as well, but the Hammerhead doesn't share a single thing internally with the stock diff. You might be able to use the same DSS axles and maybe aftermarket driveshaft.

[Chris82xx]

Originally Posted by Irnwkrkev

Not to knock it, because I plan on building up my stock diff as well, but the Hammerhead doesn't share a single thing internally with the stock diff. You might be able to use the same DSS axles and maybe aftermarket driveshaft.

It depends on what level you start off with. The level one Hammerhead, shares the same components as what I have installed right now which basically boils down to the posi unit itself, which is the truetrac. The gears, which is broad, and they use caps. Level 2 and 3, do not use any of the same components, which I think you're referring to. I'm not sure if you meant that I have a stock unit, or you were just comparing.

[Chris82xx]

Originally Posted by 376LS3

Who did your build? Local or vendor? Thanks everyone!

The shop I used is local for me, but also a vendor on here. There should be a couple of vendor shops near where you live.

[376LS3]

Ok, will take a look around town. The only place I have seen is called Austin Driveline and the Austin Camaro guys have nothing good to say about them....(I live on the outskirts of Austin) I think I may buy another diff and have that one rebuilt. I like to have spares. (Im a parts hoarder, Lol)

[Chris82xx]

If you go through the sponsors list, you can sort them out by location. There's a good chance you can find a good shop on there too.

[376LS3]

Did you have any issues with your TruTrac? I was reading a couple threads the other day where some had bucking issues, and weird noises. My car already bucks from the cam. Maybe the cam and diff will cancel each other out and it will ride super smooth?? Lol!

[Chris82xx]

There's no noise coming from the rear of the car. Everything works great. It's like you don't even know you have one. I do have bucking, however I attribute that to the cam and fuel. The car rides great at 1200rpm, but when it drops below that at a cruising speed, that's when it starts bucking. I know it's not the TrueTrac. The thread you're talking about, if you read it in its entirety, the noises work themselves out after the break-in period, or it's because a synthetic fluid was put it.

[RBD]

I have the True Track and 3.70 LPE gears, JRE caps. No noise here.

[Motion427]

Could be wrong.
But I don't think the stock diff and the stage 1 hammerhead has any parts that can be interchanged.The stock diff is a 8.6" ring setup and the hammerhead is based on the GM 12 bolt 8.875" setup.
The one thing I know is that the aftermarket axles and the aftermarket driveshaft can be interchanged because the dimensions are the same from either one.

[Irnwkrkev]

^ That's the point I was trying to make. The strength comes for the ring and pinion size increase. I'm sure the true-trac is not the same model for different size ring gears as well.

Again, not to knock it but the stock diff will never be as strong as even the level 1 hammerhead diff.

[Chris82xx]

I understand what you're saying now. I know that the Hammerhead parts are bigger than what I have, I was just saying I was using the same components. Meaning, we both have the TrueTrac, just mine is smaller for my casing. Same thing with the rest of the stuff. I get it now. Sorry for the confusion.

[2SSCAMARO]

Originally Posted by 376LS3

Did you have any issues with your TruTrac? I was reading a couple threads the other day where some had bucking issues, and weird noises. My car already bucks from the cam. Maybe the cam and diff will cancel each other out and it will ride super smooth?? Lol!

I think there may be issues with the tune if your experiencing bucking. I am running a ls3 conversion with a Maggie and a blower cam.....224/236 .620 and a very tight stock converter. It idles with a beautiful lope at about 650 to 690 RPM's. It will smoothly move along with foot of the pedal at maybe 2 to 3 mph and at any and all speeds above that just as smooth as a stock Camaro. Are you by any chance set up where unmetered air is being introduced in to the pcv system?