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Old 09-08-2011, 07:11 AM   #15
andredmg
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Im already growing impatient lol, been checkin in everyday ha ha. I think you're gonna make a lot more than 575 to the wheels homeboy trust me.
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Old 09-09-2011, 01:29 AM   #16
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Did some work today, finished removing the old engine, few shots of misc and shit laying around my garage. I work full time (army) and do all my own work at my own pace, so appreciate that this isn't a big shop build with a lift and air tools. Craftsman baby. Here are a few shots from today, including the offending cylinder/piston in the old motor.

The majority of the scarring is literally right on top of the first ring. What could conveniently fit there. A burnt off electrode perhaps? My conjecture is the cyl got hot, burned up the plug, the molten electrode fell, cooled, ended up flopping around until it got stuck between the piston and cyl wall, right above the ring. I believe it got stuck there, and went for a ride all around trapped between the cyl and cyl wall. It's the only thing I can honestly think of that could have caused the cyl markings the way they are. Pics look ugly, but they aren't deep at all. Rod journals look brand new. Rod bearings look brand new. Rods look brand new. 7/8 of the pistons look brand new. Thankfully this means my short block is still worth some coin, which will contribute handily towards the new setup. Stock pistons are coated. Who knew.


Rear suspension and DSS/Hendrix axles, just hanging out. BMR Drag bar!




The offending piston

The offending piston








A good cylinder (crosshatch)

The offending Cylinder

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Old 09-09-2011, 01:45 AM   #17
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On the to-do list is to handwash the underside of the car, and suspension parts with some simple green and a cloth. Filthy under there, and what better time to make it shiny and new looking again then when its in the air and empty of driveline
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Old 09-09-2011, 01:51 AM   #18
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Wish I had the knowledge to execute this in my free time.
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Old 09-09-2011, 02:25 AM   #19
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When you break it down barney style, it ultimately is

Step 1: Remove all bolts and connectors

Step 2: Replace all bolts and connectors.

All the rest is just icing on the cake. I need a receiver for my garage speakers!
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Old 09-09-2011, 06:41 AM   #20
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Nice DIY work .... someday I will probably do the same.... thats someday LOL
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:32 AM   #21
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I didn't realize you had blown the motor. :( The nitrous a culprit?

I went down a similar path in 2005 on my LS1 GTO. Melted some pistons, pulled the motor, and threw in an iron 408 I built in my own garage at the church.

Enjoyed every minute of it. Hope you do the same. And keep the pictures coming!

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Old 09-09-2011, 09:20 AM   #22
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Indirectly, yeah probably. Spark plug melted, and the electrode looks to have scratched up the cyl (lost compression on #6 as a result). It isn't "blown", but it was hurt. Real easy to clean up though.
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Old 09-09-2011, 10:21 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DietCoke View Post
Indirectly, yeah probably. Spark plug melted, and the electrode looks to have scratched up the cyl (lost compression on #6 as a result). It isn't "blown", but it was hurt. Real easy to clean up though.
Oh sure, a little honing, all that. But better yet, a good excuse to drop in a 429.

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Old 09-09-2011, 10:40 AM   #24
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Might do this myself. I use to work on all my own cars, might have to start again. Just get some stuff done at shops. But I would want a compresser and air tools for sure. I would guess you just have it all up on stands ??
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:43 AM   #25
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No major updates, sold the remainder of the factory shortblock, got the heads stripped bare ready to be sent off for a special 280cc cnc port. Got a guy coming to buy the trans/clutch tomorrow and it's then time to get the 4L80 ordered. Parts recycling ftw.
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:31 AM   #26
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You need to post up a good weight reduction thread. I need ideas.
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:19 PM   #27
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-6 Airbags (Side Curtain, Seats, dash) (-33 pounds)
Dash removed, lightened, tubular steel loop cut off of cross brace, cross brace lightened, sound deadening removed from backside of FW (-30 lbs)
Removed rear belts and brackets, and sheet metal holding bracket mounts (-20 pounds)
Weld RT-S & tires (-85 pounds)
Headers/X/Dumps at axle for weight (-60 pounds)
Tubular front crash support (-19 pounds)
Tubular rear crash support (-16 pounds)
!Evap (9.7 pounds, not including evap line, which I left in)
!A/C (75 pounds)
!Junk Block Oil Cooler/Heater, unnecessary (-7 pounds)
Lightweight Billet clutch (-12 pounds)
Sound deadening removed from under seats, backseats, trunk, including hood/trunk liner (-8 pounds)
Braille battery (-24 pounds)
Wipers/Wiper Motors (9 pounds)
Windshield Washer Tank + Pump and lines (4 pounds)


412 pounds so far. I've got another 20 pounds in coilovers, and 20 more in lightweight brakes, but those are extremely expensive per pound, so may be a while. Looking inside the car, you cannot tell anything has been removed. I'd like to go to lexan back glass, which should save another 30 pounds, but again, expensive.

Add an additional 52 pounds for track days, with removal of pass. seat and back seat. They're normally in the car, so I dont count them. That's 464 pounds total. I also suppose I could remove more material behind the dash (there's 300 pounds of shit there on a stock car), but I'm satisfied with what I got out of it for not too much work, given that it is still a very comfortable car, and I enjoy the radio, heater, defroster, etc. It's not a daily driver anymore (though it is just as comfortable as a stock car) and air conditioning is pointless here in northern WA, I never used it anyway, though I have all the components in the garage corner for if I ever move back south.

From the thread I just made in drag racing and copied here.
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Old 09-12-2011, 08:03 PM   #28
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Quite an impressive list of weight reduction. Probably too much for mosts of us, but a great effort. My biggest savings were wheels, exhaust, battery and seat.

Is Lexan legal for drag racing? I thought I read somewhere it's not for street cars.

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