Should I uprgade to FE4 suspension?

[dcplus14]

LMFAO

FYI Pete, your GMPP link in your sig is broken.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by dcplus14

LMFAO

FYI Pete, your GMPP link in your sig is broken.

New website Another page needs a re-direct Fixed Thanks

[The 2010 Sin]

I think im going to pull and sell all of my aftermarket suspension and do all upgrades to make it a stock 2013 suspension. My 13 is so much nicer than my 10 its not even funny

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by The 2010 Sin

I think im going to pull and sell all of my aftermarket suspension and do all upgrades to make it a stock 2013 suspension. My 13 is so much nicer than my 10 its not even funny

Before you do all that, please post a list of what suspension, wheel and tire aftermarket parts you have on your 10.

[caverman]

OK....Pete talked me into it.

On order:
FE4 GM LCA
Pedders FE4 End Links
32mm rear bar
Steering column bush (might as well since I'm already getting a shipment)

Hey Pete,
Should I be upgrading the LCA bushings? They may not make enough of a difference to worry about right now.

Also, PM me any good alignment shop in the DFW area that you might know of. I'm guessing I'm going to be doing a FE4 alignment this time.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by caverman

OK....Pete talked me into it.

On order:
FE4 GM LCA
Pedders FE4 End Links
32mm rear bar
Steering column bush (might as well since I'm already getting a shipment)

Hey Pete,
Should I be upgrading the LCA bushings? They may not make enough of a difference to worry about right now.

Also, PM me any good alignment shop in the DFW area that you might know of. I'm guessing I'm going to be doing a FE4 alignment this time.

The main reason to replace the rear lower inner bush is to remove rate. The OE steel jacketed bush is very tight with little rubber between the jacket and ferule. A steel jacketed urethane bush has a free ferule. This allows the springs and dampers to control motion.

[The 2010 Sin]

Full hotchkis suspension and endlinks (Springs, Sways, Subframe Connector, Brace)the 2013 is so smooth and feels like it glides through corners more like a vette and mine carves through corners like a rough a** truck that can handle a lil better.

I have the same wheels and tires on both. (22" huntington bolsa's and Nitto's 265&305)

The Hotchkis is a sponsored suspension so I would have to send it back to them. They sent it to me for my audio tours coming up this last fall through this next Dec 2013.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by The 2010 Sin

Full hotchkis suspension and endlinks (Springs, Sways, Subframe Connector, Brace)the 2013 is so smooth and feels like it glides through corners more like a vette and mine carves through corners like a rough a** truck that can handle a lil better.

I have the same wheels and tires on both. (22" huntington bolsa's and Nitto's 265&305)

The Hotchkis is a sponsored suspension so I would have to send it back to them. They sent it to me for my audio tours coming up this last fall through this next Dec 2013.

How much does all the audio gear weigh?

[Parabolica]

Originally Posted by The 2010 Sin

I think im going to pull and sell all of my aftermarket suspension and do all upgrades to make it a stock 2013 suspension. My 13 is so much nicer than my 10 its not even funny

Originally Posted by The 2010 Sin

Full hotchkis suspension and endlinks (Springs, Sways, Subframe Connector, Brace)the 2013 is so smooth and feels like it glides through corners more like a vette and mine carves through corners like a rough a** truck that can handle a lil better.

I have the same wheels and tires on both. (22" huntington bolsa's and Nitto's 265&305)

The Hotchkis is a sponsored suspension so I would have to send it back to them. They sent it to me for my audio tours coming up this last fall through this next Dec 2013.

Did you change shocks on the '10 as well?

The springs are most likely causing the rough ride on the '10. I can't for a minute imagine any of the other mods causing your rough ride (though I haven't driven a car with subframe connecters so I don't know how much of a difference they make, but I guess it is possible they could remove some compliance that would make the car feel rougher).

Everyone should know going in that changing to a performance spring, or suspension, is going to make the ride rougher; it's a compromise.

I'd hate to see you waste your money on new suspension components that aren't needed. If you don't like the ride, try removing the subframe connecters and go back to the stock coils/shocks. You'll likely find the ride is much better without needing the '13 bits...

As for the FE4, it might be better, but you need to define better. In other-words, if you tried everything (full rear bar & minimum front bar, more front compression damping and/or less rear compression damping, toe settings and tire pressures: more front or less rear or both) and still have too much understeer, then yeah, the FE4 components would be worth a try. I can't imagine GM designed so much understeer it couldn't be dialed out with any combination of the above.

Personally, I can get my car to oversteer with the components I have, I have no need to go to the FE4 or FE5 bits...

[caverman]

Personally, looking at the difference of how the FE3 end links are flembsie looking and the way they connect compared to the FE4 drop links and the way they connect to the control arm....that's one of the biggest reasons I'm changing.

It reminds me of the '67 with a mono-leaf spring compared to the multi-leaf spring that came on the '69. Improved suspension....

[Parabolica]

I guess, but let's look at this logically...

The stock Camaro suffers from understeer. If you push the car hard enough to get it to understeer, you need to make some changes, sway bars being one of those changes. The stock end links are flimsy and are generally replaced with a performance bar.

If designed correctly, the aftermarket performance sway bars will get rid of the majority, if not all of the understeer.

The rear FE4 attaches further out on the control arm giving more leverage, or a greater mechanical advantage. I'm not an expert, but because of this design, it would seem logical that one would be able to achieve the same roll resistance of the FE3 setup with a smaller FE4 bar.

At the end of the day, the bars need to work together to achieve the end result. If your car is neutral now, and you stick an FE4 bar on, you'll likely have to run less rear bar then you did with the FE3.

If my car is neutral with an FE3 setup, and your car is neutral with an FE4 setup, how is one better than the other?

Keep in mind, the FE4 was designed to work on a stock car and addresses deficiencies in the stock FE3 design to make the car more neutral, deficiencies the FE3 aftermarket addressed...

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Parabolica

I guess, but let's look at this logically...

The stock Camaro suffers from understeer. If you push the car hard enough to get it to understeer, you need to make some changes, sway bars being one of those changes. The stock end links are flimsy and are generally replaced with a performance bar.

If designed correctly, the aftermarket performance sway bars will get rid of the majority, if not all of the understeer.

The rear FE4 attaches further out on the control arm giving more leverage, or a greater mechanical advantage. I'm not an expert, but because of this design, it would seem logical that one would be able to achieve the same roll resistance of the FE3 setup with a smaller FE4 bar.

At the end of the day, the bars need to work together to achieve the end result. If your car is neutral now, and you stick an FE4 bar on, you'll likely have to run less rear bar then you did with the FE3.

If my car is neutral with an FE3 setup, and your car is neutral with an FE4 setup, how is one better than the other?

Keep in mind, the FE4 was designed to work on a stock car and addresses deficiencies in the stock FE3 design to make the car more neutral, deficiencies the FE3 aftermarket addressed...

What size bars are you using now?