03-11-2015, 10:24 AM | #1 |
Drives: 1968 Camaro, 2012 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 398
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Brake Fluid Change
I am a touch over 30K miles and ready to change the brake fluid. I have been doing this on several vehicle for a few years now and it has gone smoothly. For anyone who has done this on their ZL-1, is there anything to trip you up?
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03-11-2015, 10:40 AM | #2 |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
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Grab a friend that needs a leg workout. And 4 bottles of Motul 600 Dot 4.
Go around all 4 corners once. Take it out for a spin, do some ABS stops on loose dirt a few times, pump the clutch if you have one... this will circulate the old stuff out of those circuits. Then come back and do all 4 corners again. Use a clear water bottle, and it will be obvious when pure clean new Dot 4 is coming out. I've done many modern cars this way, never used a Tech 2, they all turned out perfect. Amazon is an easy place to get Motul from. Just don't let the M/C go close to dry while bleeding. Do one corner... top off. All you need is a box end metric wrench, some vaccum hose, and a clear water bottle. And 3 or 4 500ml bottles of your favorite brake fluid. Motul 600 Dot 4 has been well researched out to work great for the street and track and is totally compatible with the Dot 3 factory fill. There are other brands, that is just my favorite. |
03-11-2015, 10:52 AM | #3 |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
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If you've bled the brakes on old school cars... it's no different on new ones. Except need to cycle the ABS.
Start at corner farthest from the master cyl, do the LF corner last. Drive, cycle ABS, pump the clutch a bunch of times.... repeat bleed process. If you have access to a scan tool, makes it a little easier to cycle the ABS. But I like the drive method as it works the clutch fluid out as well, and is all DIY. Vacuum bleeding also works. But nothing wrong with a friend pumping the brake pedal method, works perfect as long as they don't let the pedal up while you have the bleeder cracked open. |
03-11-2015, 11:21 AM | #4 |
KaBoom1701
Drives: 13' ZL1 Red M6 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: I.E. SoCal (Yucaipa)
Posts: 8,630
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Mods:
Roto-Fab Intake, WW Res. kit & Big Gulp Air Scoop, Elite Catch Can, ATI Super Damper & 18% OD Pulley, LF Idler pulley bracket, Metco CC breather, ID850 Injectors, Stainless Power Headers w/ ceramic coating, TR71X Spark Plugs, JMS Fuel Pump Booster, Bo White TB, Tuned by Ted @ Jannetty Racing, Ron Davis HX, D3 Reservoir, Pfadt 1" Springs, Moreno Camber Plates, ZL1 Addons Splitter guard washers, Tow Hook kit & rock guards, Hurst Shifter Billet Plus 6 Speed Short Shifter, ZL1 DRL lighting harness, ZL1 Recaro Seats. |
03-11-2015, 12:49 PM | #5 |
Drives: 02 Z06, 95 Trans Am, 2012 ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Southeast
Posts: 1,838
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It the same as any other car to bleed. With one exception. There are 8 bleed valves. Not 4.
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Bryan 2018 ZL1 M6
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03-11-2015, 01:20 PM | #6 |
Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 9,621
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You should only need 3 pints of Motul. Also be sure you go in the proper order. Pass rear - Driver rear - Pass Front - Driver front. You'll spend most of the time at the passenger rear to flush the majority of the system.
This would also be a good time to upgrade to Stainless Steel brake lines if you haven't already. Best regards, |
03-11-2015, 02:57 PM | #7 |
Drives: 1968 Camaro, 2012 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 398
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OK guys thanks. My takeaway is it is the same as every other car I have done with ABS. My methods are slightly different form some of yours, but I get the same result. I actually do it by myself by dipping the drain line at the bleeder in a coffee can of old brake fluid. I'll pump about 20 times, check the level in the MC check the color of the fluid in the clear drain line and make a decision if I have to pump 20 more times or not.
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03-11-2015, 03:00 PM | #8 | |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
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Quote:
If you get the wheels in the right spot you can pretty much bleed the brakes without even jacking the car up. If you use the bleeder opposite the brake line, it pretty much flushes the whole caliper without introducing any air. If air get's trapped on one side, then need to bleed from both. I used 3 1/2 500 ml bottles, but my fluid was really cruddy especially from the clutch, so I did each corner many times. |
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03-11-2015, 03:04 PM | #9 |
Drives: 1968 Camaro, 2012 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 398
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Hey I just looked at that power bleeder. That makes it look real easy. I might have to buy one of them.
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03-11-2015, 03:32 PM | #10 |
KaBoom1701
Drives: 13' ZL1 Red M6 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: I.E. SoCal (Yucaipa)
Posts: 8,630
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__________________
Mods:
Roto-Fab Intake, WW Res. kit & Big Gulp Air Scoop, Elite Catch Can, ATI Super Damper & 18% OD Pulley, LF Idler pulley bracket, Metco CC breather, ID850 Injectors, Stainless Power Headers w/ ceramic coating, TR71X Spark Plugs, JMS Fuel Pump Booster, Bo White TB, Tuned by Ted @ Jannetty Racing, Ron Davis HX, D3 Reservoir, Pfadt 1" Springs, Moreno Camber Plates, ZL1 Addons Splitter guard washers, Tow Hook kit & rock guards, Hurst Shifter Billet Plus 6 Speed Short Shifter, ZL1 DRL lighting harness, ZL1 Recaro Seats. |
03-11-2015, 04:04 PM | #11 |
Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mechanicsville, VA
Posts: 6,808
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bleed the inner bleeder on the caliper, then outer bleeder.
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'21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60'
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03-11-2015, 05:45 PM | #12 |
Speed Freak
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Camaro, 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ardmore, OK
Posts: 2,637
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Looks like OP has a manual. Don't forget to bleed out the clutch line. Most of the time the spring won't pull the clutch pedal up, you have to reach down and pull it up.
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2016 SS -AGP twin Borg Warner 7163 EFR's, LT4 mechanical pump, LT4 injectors, Walbro 255 low side, Castrol SRF. 734whp/759 tq
2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date. |
03-12-2015, 06:56 AM | #13 |
Drives: 1968 Camaro, 2012 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Aston, PA
Posts: 398
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Jessrayo, I just bled the T56 in my 68 Camaro, but I added a bleed line to it to make it easier. How are you doing it on the TR6060?
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03-12-2015, 11:26 AM | #14 |
KaBoom1701
Drives: 13' ZL1 Red M6 Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: I.E. SoCal (Yucaipa)
Posts: 8,630
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It's best to install a tick line bleeder to do this.
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Mods:
Roto-Fab Intake, WW Res. kit & Big Gulp Air Scoop, Elite Catch Can, ATI Super Damper & 18% OD Pulley, LF Idler pulley bracket, Metco CC breather, ID850 Injectors, Stainless Power Headers w/ ceramic coating, TR71X Spark Plugs, JMS Fuel Pump Booster, Bo White TB, Tuned by Ted @ Jannetty Racing, Ron Davis HX, D3 Reservoir, Pfadt 1" Springs, Moreno Camber Plates, ZL1 Addons Splitter guard washers, Tow Hook kit & rock guards, Hurst Shifter Billet Plus 6 Speed Short Shifter, ZL1 DRL lighting harness, ZL1 Recaro Seats. |
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