GM part # question

[daphatgrant]

I was recently doing some modifications and broke 2 of the 4 tabs that hold the air inlet case in place (frame that holds the cabin air filter). I looked at the part stamped on the side is 92234585, calls to my local parts dept and a search on the internet as well as GMPartsDirect.com brought up nothing. I eventually found it under part # 92220252 both online and at my local dealer, $36 costly mistake :(.

Just curious if anyone would have a reason for the # on the part being different than the # in ordering databases.

[Black1HP]

What exactly were you doing? Want to make sure I don't do the same thing

[el ess A]

Originally Posted by daphatgrant

I was recently doing some modifications and broke 2 of the 4 tabs that hold the air inlet case in place (frame that holds the cabin air filter). I looked at the part stamped on the side is 92234585, calls to my local parts dept and a search on the internet as well as GMPartsDirect.com brought up nothing. I eventually found it under part # 92220252 both online and at my local dealer, $36 costly mistake :(.

Just curious if anyone would have a reason for the # on the part being different than the # in ordering databases.

There's a number of possibilities of why a factory stamped number may be different than the stocking part number.

It's possible the part manufacturer has changed since your car was built. Same exact part, but made by someone else, so different tracking as the old number may not be stocked any longer. It's also possible a design change upgrade was made, or that the part comes as a "kit" with maybe a seal piece or bolt or clip, etc., that new number now delineates the assembly including more than one part number. Additionally, they may finish the part differently, and while it still may have the original p/n cast/stamped into it, it now gets a new number for stocking. It's hard to say.

For example, a taillight housing for one of my older cars has a myriad of part numbers molded into the back of the housing (hidden when installed) as upgrades were done to the part. It also has a non-serviceable (means you can't order it or get it separately) emblem on it with a cast in part number on it. So to get the emblem, you'd have to buy the entire housing.

On the other end of the spectrum, the master cylinder cover for that same old car used to come with the gasket included. They called it a "kit" but now the only thing that comes in the kit is the lid. But they still call it a "kit". The gasket is now separate. Go figure.

There's always a reason for p/n changes, but it would simply be a guess as to why.

[daphatgrant]

Originally Posted by Black1HP

What exactly were you doing? Want to make sure I don't do the same thing

Nice username, lol .

I was installing fieldgoal00's drl to foglight conversion kit and LED indicator. I chose to install the remote box inside the cabin as opposed to the wheel well and at the same time bumped up the wiring into the cabin to 12gauge solid core, 3 wires wrapped in split loom with 2 opposing layers of 3M electrical tape, I have a habit of overdoing it at times . Needless to say the part is $36 shipped from GMPartsDirect.com so it's not the end of the world just something else to buy.

Here are a couple pics, first is of the part and 2nd is of it's location.








As long as you don't break the inlet housing this is a great way to get wires into the cabin without drilling, thanks skuttduck! I owe you a beer in Canada this year

[Black1HP]

I see. That sucks. $36 would be a Skip Shift Elim + gill inserts. Dammit!
Oops! Sorry, Jedidiah

[daphatgrant]

Originally Posted by Black1HP

I see. That sucks. $36 would be a Skip Shift Elim + gill inserts. Dammit!
Oops! Sorry, Jedidiah

Not a big gill inserts fan, I don't mind them just not for me, I'm thinking that the $36 could have gone towards the $130 I'll be spending on fluids for the "great storage operation".

[skuttduck]

Originally Posted by daphatgrant

Nice username, lol .

I was installing fieldgoal00's drl to foglight conversion kit and LED indicator. I chose to install the remote box inside the cabin as opposed to the wheel well and at the same time bumped up the wiring into the cabin to 12gauge solid core, 3 wires wrapped in split loom with 2 opposing layers of 3M electrical tape, I have a habit of overdoing it at times . Needless to say the part is $36 shipped from GMPartsDirect.com so it's not the end of the world just something else to buy.

Here are a couple pics, first is of the part and 2nd is of it's location.








As long as you don't break the inlet housing this is a great way to get wires into the cabin without drilling, thanks skuttduck! I owe you a beer in Canada this year

You're welcome. I don't like to cut holes or drill if I don't have to. Still though adding the HUD might be cool.

So you took out the in cabin airfilter to run your lines through there. Was the plastic tab that plugged the hole next to this too small to run wires through?

I used that to run my radar detector through, and the controls are above the 4 pack gauges.

[daphatgrant]

Originally Posted by skuttduck

You're welcome. I don't like to cut holes or drill if I don't have to. Still though adding the HUD might be cool.

So you took out the in cabin airfilter to run your lines through there. Was the plastic tab that plugged the hole next to this too small to run wires through?

I used that to run my radar detector through, and the controls are above the 4 pack gauges.

I'm pretty sure I used the same hole as you did, probably about 3/4" or so? It's to the lower left side of the opening, closer to the passenger fender. I removed the housing so I could more easily get the wires through there, (3) solid core 12gauge wires wrapped in split loom and 2 layers of 3M electrical tape needs all the help it can get to get through about any opening . I'll be taking some pics when the new piece comes .

[Black1HP]

Originally Posted by daphatgrant

Not a big gill inserts fan, I don't mind them just not for me, I'm thinking that the $36 could have gone towards the $130 I'll be spending on fluids for the "great storage operation".

I was just there. Had Maguire do the oil and diff. I supplied the liquids, they the labor. Did a good job, let me inspect, and now have record. Charged me $57 for labor and oil filter.

[daphatgrant]

Originally Posted by Black1HP

I was just there. Had Maguire do the oil and diff. I supplied the liquids, they the labor. Did a good job, let me inspect, and now have record. Charged me $57 for labor and oil filter.

That's not really too bad when you say "labor and oil" do you mean disposal of oil? I wonder if I can get them to install that remote clutch bleeder while it's in the air if I brought it with me. Also are you talking the Maguires by the mall or the Chevy one in T-Burg.

[Black1HP]

Originally Posted by daphatgrant

That's not really too bad when you say "labor and oil" do you mean disposal of oil? I wonder if I can get them to install that remote clutch bleeder while it's in the air if I brought it with me. Also are you talking the Maguires by the mall or the Chevy one in T-Burg.

I payed for labor and oil filter, but you can supply your own filter as well. Yes, they dispose of everything.

[daphatgrant]

Originally Posted by Black1HP

I payed for labor and oil filter, but you can supply your own filter as well. Yes, they dispose of everything.

Well not bad man especially if they let you watch (doesn't sound right), that'd calm my fear of someone messing something up. I'm waiting to get the clutch fluid reservoir in from GMPartsDirect (currently on back order :() as soon as that shows up I'm planning on a clutch fluid, brake fluid, differential fluid, transmission fluid, and finally engine oil change, phew, lol.

Mobil (1) Synthetic for engine 5W-30
Mobil (1) ATF Synthetic for Transmission
Mobil (1) Synthetic Gear Oil 75W-90
Prestone DOT 4 Synthetic Brake Fluid

[Black5thgen]

I know this is an old thread but big thanks to the OP, you just saved my ass. I did the same thing tonight. Search works, lol.