01-04-2016, 11:44 PM | #1 |
BUMBL Z
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Tablet install, need 5V source
Got an old samsung tablet kicking around, so I'm going to mount it up and use it to run Torque, maybe Google maps for navi, and some media playback.
Mounting it isn't an issue, but rather trying to find a power source to keep it charged is my concern. Ideally, I'd like to have it only charge on ignition. Would the best approach be to step 12v down to 5v (most likely from the factory cigarette lighter since it's ignition/switched), fuse it for 2A and splice a charging cable in, or is there a 5V source that's hanging out around there already? Got a few wiring diagrams and the only 5V source i'm seeing is at the BCM, but I don't want to tap that if that's going to make thing's screwy.
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Current: 2015 ZL1 M6, Rotofab Intake, LS3 throttle body, 2.55 Upper/9.17 Lower w/ Idler Relocation, DMS Reinforced Brick, ID1050X, 1 7/8" Headers, ProSpeed HX/Reservoir, DSX Aux Pump/Flex Fuel Sensor, E85, McLeod RXT, BMR 1" Drop, Tuned by Pat G
Past: 2010 2SS, some bolt ons, 415rwhp/400rwtq |
01-05-2016, 12:58 AM | #2 |
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Wouldn't a USB charger work?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
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2010 2SS - CAI Intake, ADM Scoop, RotoFab Washer relo. LT Headers and off-road pipes, X-pipe, Muffler Deletes, ZL1 Spoiler, Technostalgia Tail-lights
'98 T/A (Sold) - Forged 6.0ltr, MS3, P&P'd Heads/Valves, 90MM FAST/TB, Headers, 3" Y-pipe, 4" Mufflex Catback. Koni Adjustables w/GC coilovers (550/175), Strano Sway Bars '94 Z28 (Sold) ... LS1 swap (basically same setup as the T/A), TH350/3500 stall ... swapped it all into the T/A -- >> Some of my Projects My Fquick Page |
01-05-2016, 01:15 AM | #3 |
BUMBL Z
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It would, but i'm going for a more tucked-in look rather than having a wire hang from the tablet and just plug into the cigarette lighter
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Current: 2015 ZL1 M6, Rotofab Intake, LS3 throttle body, 2.55 Upper/9.17 Lower w/ Idler Relocation, DMS Reinforced Brick, ID1050X, 1 7/8" Headers, ProSpeed HX/Reservoir, DSX Aux Pump/Flex Fuel Sensor, E85, McLeod RXT, BMR 1" Drop, Tuned by Pat G
Past: 2010 2SS, some bolt ons, 415rwhp/400rwtq |
01-05-2016, 08:47 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: H-Town
Posts: 1,037
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Post pics when you're done!! I have a Nexus 7 that isn't being used and just recently tried to think about how/where to do this exact same thing. After 20 minutes just sitting in my driveway and messing around with the "where" of things, I had a semi-decent idea of what I wanted to do, but can't for the life of me think of a clean way to do it.
Not sure where you're looking to mount, but I'm looking to do it just to the right of the dash, I think. |
01-05-2016, 11:03 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: San Jose, California
Posts: 1,371
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Maybe wire up a third hidden power port and use a USB cigarette lighter adapter.
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01-05-2016, 12:46 PM | #6 |
Drives: 16 Camaro SS Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Menifee
Posts: 820
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I bought one of these for my front camera DVR recorder. works flawless.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Power-Ad...8AAOxyXHpSQqM6
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Interior: Adrenaline Red. SS/2SS, M6, NPP, Sun Roof, 8" Nav. Black 5 Spoke Wheels.
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01-05-2016, 04:40 PM | #7 |
BUMBL Z
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Found an old iPhone car charger with a busted port, and cut the chip out to use as a stepdown. Wired it to the cigarette lighter, but that runs off of RAP, which doesn't play nice with my remote start system (long story short, if i "prime" my remote start system, the tablet doesn't shut down like it should), so I have to find an ignition 12V wire in the harness for my 4pack gauges (anyone got a wire color? I'm assuming red or pink).
Got it up and running as well as mounted. Used a small piece of plexiglass with 3M double-sided adhesive to get a nice, smooth surface, then used a suction cup mount on top of that since I couldn't find an adhesive mount. There's a video on my IG of it running real quick, hopefully this link works https://www.instagram.com/p/BALCFbnGKvl/
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Current: 2015 ZL1 M6, Rotofab Intake, LS3 throttle body, 2.55 Upper/9.17 Lower w/ Idler Relocation, DMS Reinforced Brick, ID1050X, 1 7/8" Headers, ProSpeed HX/Reservoir, DSX Aux Pump/Flex Fuel Sensor, E85, McLeod RXT, BMR 1" Drop, Tuned by Pat G
Past: 2010 2SS, some bolt ons, 415rwhp/400rwtq Last edited by spadz93; 01-05-2016 at 05:56 PM. |
01-05-2016, 11:13 PM | #8 | ||||
Drives: 2015 Manual Hot Red 2LS Camaro Join Date: May 2015
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 269
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Maybe this might help...
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01-06-2016, 01:57 PM | #9 |
BUMBL Z
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Mounting is all taken care of, I just need that power wire. Pulled this picture from an install sheet from gen5diy, wondering if it's a switched 12v wire
While I'm figuring this all out, anyone got any other cool app recommendations? I feel like I'm only scratching the surface with torque and Google maps. What other cool car apps are out there, if any? Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
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Current: 2015 ZL1 M6, Rotofab Intake, LS3 throttle body, 2.55 Upper/9.17 Lower w/ Idler Relocation, DMS Reinforced Brick, ID1050X, 1 7/8" Headers, ProSpeed HX/Reservoir, DSX Aux Pump/Flex Fuel Sensor, E85, McLeod RXT, BMR 1" Drop, Tuned by Pat G
Past: 2010 2SS, some bolt ons, 415rwhp/400rwtq Last edited by spadz93; 01-06-2016 at 04:51 PM. |
01-07-2016, 01:55 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2015 Manual Hot Red 2LS Camaro Join Date: May 2015
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 269
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I would also like to know which wires on the radio plug harness is positive and negative when the car is turned to ACC or to ON!!
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01-07-2016, 04:32 AM | #11 | |
BCS Auto
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Quote:
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01-07-2016, 05:33 AM | #12 |
BUMBL Z
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Okay so here's the deal. That 12v outlet is controlled by our cars Retained Accessory Power circuit. This won't work with an aftermarket remote start system (which I have) for the reason that it'll leave the tablet running for 10 minutes after I get out of the car. Bear with me on this one:
With a remote start system on a manual car, you need to prime the system so that it knows that when you remote start the car, it won't start in gear and fly down the road. To do this, you need to engage the foot brake, then the parking brake, and then click the start button on the remote to prime the system. After clicking the button, you remove your key from the ignition, but the car remains running. You then need to open your driver door, get out, close the door, and then lock the car (normal process). It's not until AFTER you close the door that the car shuts down. This is normal function for a remote start system on a manual car, as it's the only way for the system to verify that the car won't remote start in gear. However, this process leaves the retained accessory power running, since you can't open the door to kill the RAP (the remote start system will "unprime"). I already had to build a relay harness for my radio to kill the radio for when I use the remote start, which I may end up tapping if I find no luck elsewhere. The main goal is to have the tablet act as part of the car: I turn the car on, it wakes up and links to my obd. I turn the car off, tablet goes to sleep because it's configured to sleep when the charger becomes unplugged. I hope this makes sense in explaining my goal lol, it's a complicated setup, but it can be accomplished to work simply, just need that one wire Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
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Current: 2015 ZL1 M6, Rotofab Intake, LS3 throttle body, 2.55 Upper/9.17 Lower w/ Idler Relocation, DMS Reinforced Brick, ID1050X, 1 7/8" Headers, ProSpeed HX/Reservoir, DSX Aux Pump/Flex Fuel Sensor, E85, McLeod RXT, BMR 1" Drop, Tuned by Pat G
Past: 2010 2SS, some bolt ons, 415rwhp/400rwtq |
01-07-2016, 05:39 AM | #13 |
BCS Auto
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No, that makes perfect sense, you explained it very well! I'm actually doing something similar (the obd idea, not your whole setup) with a tablet currently, but moving to an integrated carputer soon
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01-07-2016, 06:38 AM | #14 |
Drives: 2011 Camaro LS Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,917
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So you or people with remote starts on manuals are already in your vehicle when starting it? Why the **** bother having remote start then?
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