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Old 09-10-2009, 01:06 AM   #29
Scourage
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Yeah, not sure if you picked up the same wires I did. I used the low level from the head unit feeding the amp at connecter AMP3, pin 4 (tan)/pin 12 (Dk Blue) for right rear and pin 5 (brown)/pin 13(brown-white) for left rear.
I did not use a converter, PAC, etc. fed directly to my low level inputs on my amp with no issues.

Here is the box I finished today, might make one for the left side depending on how my next addition works out. I have 6x9 Kicker KS6930 with 2X300W amp arriving next week.


Just need to get matching carpet.
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:43 PM   #30
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Looks good.
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:59 PM   #31
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I like it!

I like the kit also Steve...

Thanks,
Michael J.
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Old 10-11-2009, 07:43 PM   #32
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the T tap connectors... are those the plastic with the "fork" shaped terminal inside. fold them over to spice into a wire through it's sheathing?

anyone recommend not using these..?
seems simple enough for low current applications......

I am doing an install in two days and need data :o)

Ramb
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Old 10-12-2009, 01:51 AM   #33
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As long as the connections are tight, you shouldn't have any issues. I found problems with some of those connectors, so I just spliced into the wires, soldered them and taped them up. Much more secure in my mind.
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:47 AM   #34
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ASTEDA

Hey man just letting you know I hooked it up the same way you did. I just tied into the fronts since I wanted full range signal and its sounds amazing. Keep on rockin!

Here's some pics of mine.
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:53 AM   #35
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T taps

Quote:
Originally Posted by rambunctious View Post
the T tap connectors... are those the plastic with the "fork" shaped terminal inside. fold them over to spice into a wire through it's sheathing?

anyone recommend not using these..?
seems simple enough for low current applications......

I am doing an install in two days and need data :o)

Ramb
T taps work ok for short time periods. I have seen them last long as 5 or 6 years but they end up not making a good connection for long term use. The best method is to strip back a small section of wire, seperate the wire with a pick, push the stripped end of the convertor wire through and wrap it around, for added security solder the wires then tape. This will last forever.
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Old 11-22-2009, 05:35 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scourage View Post
Yeah, not sure if you picked up the same wires I did. I used the low level from the head unit feeding the amp at connecter AMP3, pin 4 (tan)/pin 12 (Dk Blue) for right rear and pin 5 (brown)/pin 13(brown-white) for left rear.
I did not use a converter, PAC, etc. fed directly to my low level inputs on my amp with no issues.

Here is the box I finished today, might make one for the left side depending on how my next addition works out. I have 6x9 Kicker KS6930 with 2X300W amp arriving next week.

WTF..I followed this wiring diagram and get SOME bass with one rca hooked in but it drops signal and distorts when i plug both into the amp. Try unplugging one of your rca's and see if you get the same as me.
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Old 11-22-2009, 07:37 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by playadam View Post
WTF..I followed this wiring diagram and get SOME bass with one rca hooked in but it drops signal and distorts when i plug both into the amp. Try unplugging one of your rca's and see if you get the same as me.
Then one side has the polarity reversed. Switch the wires on one side and try again.
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Old 06-28-2010, 09:12 PM   #38
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Old 06-28-2010, 10:01 PM   #39
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Old 06-29-2010, 12:01 AM   #40
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For being a "professional installer" as you claim for 15 years you work looks like newbie work. no REAL installer would EVER wrap his wiring in Duct tape (where there was elec. tape under it or not.) nor would they use whatever kind of tape that is to tape wires to the body of the car. A Professional installer would not have a 200 amp fuse on a 4 guage line to an amp that only needs about 60-80 amps of current, nor would they run a ground wire close to 3 feet form the amp to is connection to the body. not one Professional install I know would leave the speaker wires just laying out there not secured in anyway. and ALL the installers I know would know that if they tapped into the wiring inside the foil wrapping they could get a good true low level signal from the factory source unit straight into the amp with out the extra processing of the amp and then reduction back down the the LOC.

But that is just the type of Professional Installers I know!

Oh and for the record the White "turn-on" wire WILL cause problems with popping because the wire is energized when the key is inserted in the ignition and stays on until the key is removed. (in the manner you have it wired in your pictures)
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Old 06-29-2010, 05:10 AM   #41
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Appreciate the effort.

blanket statement: If you don't have anything NICE to say, don't say anything at all.


If people want to "DIY" They 'may' choose to do it this way.
If they want an easy plug and play option they 'may' go the ******** option.

Eitherway, this thread should be closed. The maturity level in this thread needs to go way the hell up.


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Old 04-11-2011, 02:40 PM   #42
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Can this be done on a non factory amp/sub Car???
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