Project Cleaning the Clutter in Our Engine Bay

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by 1FAST SS

Any progress EZ or Nathan?

I have been crazy busy. I am waking up at 3 am to catch at 6 am flight from San Diego to Orlando for the PRI show. I will post updates when I get back.

[NEGXXIS]

Here is my wiring harness, fuse box and computer that have been relocated .....to outside of the car....now no more wiring mess under the hood

[vroomapunk]

Originally Posted by EZ SPEED

Here is my wiring harness, fuse box and computer that have been relocated .....to outside of the car....now no more wiring mess under the hood

Thats the way to go

[376TT]

If thats not a good start on "Cleaning the Clutter", then we are expecting the wrong thing from this thread!!

[Mr. Unassailable]

Originally Posted by EZ SPEED

Here is my wiring harness, fuse box and computer that have been relocated .....to outside of the car....now no more wiring mess under the hood

I think I'm going to do this when I get home this week. I reran several wires for my coil relocating, it wasn't bad.

Yeah, that's a fan. I started right after driving the car.


- Clayton. Official C5Fail4 hater.

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by EZ SPEED

Here is my wiring harness, fuse box and computer that have been relocated .....to outside of the car....now no more wiring mess under the hood

EZ, just answered your PM. AWESOME job I got some pics from PRI thats going to giveus a different way on how to relocate the fuse box and PCM. I will post them when I get back next Wednesday.

Originally Posted by 376TT

If thats not a good start on "Cleaning the Clutter", then we are expecting the wrong thing from this thread!!

I agree, it's going to make a HUGE difference!

Originally Posted by Mr. Unassailable

I think I'm going to do this when I get home this week. I reran several wires for my coil relocating, it wasn't bad.

Yeah, that's a fan. I started right after driving the car.

- Clayton. Official C5Fail4 hater.

AWESOME! Make sure to take and post pics t help other members.

Quick update: Goals to put car back together has been expedited as I am shooting to get the car into the Optima challenge next November. Spoke with the Optima guys at PRI and there is only two ways to get one of the 50 invitations. either by attending one of there events and getting invited or being chosen as one of ten at SEMA. They suggested I 'd have a better shot being chosen at one of the events. The next event in my area is in February. So I have my work cut out for me. I will need to do wheels, tires, big brake package, complete suspension, drive train, racing seats, clutch, carbon shaft, etc....... plus about 1000 miles to break it in.

Thinking Mantic for the clutch specifically because of Doc's thread.

So the focus is going to be to slap it back together and get it ready by Feb! I will blow it apart and finish the detail work for SEMA. Spoke with several companies that might want it at there booth.

It's definitely going to be a push. Wish me luck.

[pyr0b0y]

Originally Posted by Nathan Moreno

EZ, just answered your PM. AWESOME job I got some pics from PRI thats going to giveus a different way on how to relocate the fuse box and PCM. I will post them when I get back next Wednesday.



I agree, it's going to make a HUGE difference!



AWESOME! Make sure to take and post pics t help other members.

Quick update: Goals to put car back together has been expedited as I am shooting to get the car into the Optima challenge next November. Spoke with the Optima guys at PRI and there is only two ways to get one of the 50 invitations. either by attending one of there events and getting invited or being chosen as one of ten at SEMA. They suggested I 'd have a better shot being chosen at one of the events. The next event in my area is in February. So I have my work cut out for me. I will need to do wheels, tires, big brake package, complete suspension, drive train, racing seats, clutch, carbon shaft, etc....... plus about 1000 miles to break it in.

Thinking Mantic for the clutch specifically because of Doc's thread.

So the focus is going to be to slap it back together and get it ready by Feb! I will blow it apart and finish the detail work for SEMA. Spoke with several companies that might want it at there booth.

It's definitely going to be a push. Wish me luck.

Hey Nathan, can you PM me the details for the event in November. I'm not sure if I'll have enough time for the Optima challenge, but always wanted to do it if possible!

[NEGXXIS]

Here are some updated pics.


So far I had to lengthen about 15 wires anywhere from 1 to 2 feet.
you can see the fuse box bracket was there....and now is gone, and I made some "u" shaped brackets to put the cabin filter flush against the firewall which worked out really well. I used the weather strip from the cabin air filter box that used to snap to the firewall and had to cut the air filter down a little to make it fit, but I think it turned out really nice.

I think i am going to move the fuel rail inlets to the rear of the engine and re-route the fuel lines up the backside of the engine to get the lines off of the inside of the framerail where they come up into the engine compartment

[1FAST SS]

Looking good. Thanks for the pics.

Originally Posted by EZ SPEED

Here are some updated pics.


So far I had to lengthen about 15 wires anywhere from 1 to 2 feet.
you can see the fuse box bracket was there....and now is gone, and I made some "u" shaped brackets to put the cabin filter flush against the firewall which worked out really well. I used the weather strip from the cabin air filter box that used to snap to the firewall and had to cut the air filter down a little to make it fit, but I think it turned out really nice.

I think i am going to move the fuel rail inlets to the rear of the engine and re-route the fuel lines up the backside of the engine to get the lines off of the inside of the framerail where they come up into the engine compartment

[Moreno1]

EZ, thanks for posting and great job so far. This will definitely encourage more people to attempt this.

Originally Posted by EZ SPEED

So far I had to lengthen about 15 wires anywhere from 1 to 2 feet.
You can see the fuse box bracket was there....and now is gone, and I made some "u" shaped brackets to put the cabin filter flush against the firewall which worked out really well. I used the weather strip from the cabin air filter box that used to snap to the firewall and had to cut the air filter down a little to make it fit, but I think it turned out really nice.

I really like the way you flushed the filter. Next time you remove it, please take some pics of the bracket.

I think I am going to move the fuel rail inlets to the rear of the engine and re-route the fuel lines up the backside of the engine to get the lines off of the inside of the framerail where they come up into the engine compartment

I agree with running the lines behind the engine. Once you remove the fuse box, the factory EVAC and fuel hard-line look kinda weird sticky up out the side of the engine.

I'm doing the same thing. I've cut the both lines back at the fire wall. For the fuel line, I bought a AN pressure fitting that allow you to attach a braided line the the factory hard line.

Kilo-9 had his tuner turn off the EVAC off. This eliminates the need for the EVAC solenoid, harness, and the need to run the hard line. You could just cut the line down low at the fire wall and add a little fuel filter at the end to keep any dust out. You don't want too close the line because the gas tank does needs to breath.


What are you going to do with the harness that feeds the head lights, horns, etc.....?

Having my car apart for a year has given me a lot of time to think through the easiest way you can hide that harness also so you eliminate those wires.

Originally Posted by pyr0b0y

Hey Nathan, can you PM me the details for the event in November. I'm not sure if I'll have enough time for the Optima challenge, but always wanted to do it if possible!

http://www.optimabatteries.com/us/en...l-ousci-rules/


.

[NEGXXIS]

Originally Posted by Nathan Moreno

EZ, thanks for posting and great job so far. This will definitely encourage more people to attempt this.



I agree with running the lines behind the engine. Once you remove the fuse box, the factory EVAP and fuel hard-line look kinda weird sticky up out the side of the engine.

I'm doing the same thing. I've cut the both lines back at the fire wall. For the fuel line, I bought a AN pressure fitting that allow you to attach a braided line the the factory hard line.

Kilo-9 had his tuner turn off the EVAP off. This eliminates the need for the EVAP solenoid, harness, and the need to run the hard line. You could just cut the line down low at the fire wall and add a little fuel filter at the end to keep any dust out. You don't want too close the line because the gas tank does needs to breath.


What are you going to do with the harness that feeds the head lights, horns, etc.....?

Having my car apart for a year has given me a lot of time to think through the easiest way you can hide that harness also so you eliminate those wires.

.

Can you give me some part numbers and pics of the AN pressure fittings please? I already have some AN line that snapped onto the factory line that came with my supercharger kit, but I would really like to run those fittings that you are talking about and make a cleaner – easier install. that way I can cut the line futher back on the framerail and use braided line all the way up to where it tees off to the fuel rails

I will check into the EVAP stuff. I have HP Tuners software so it wouldn’t be a problem to turn it off in my tune.
hmmmmm ....I just remembered that I deleted all the EVAP stuff back in 2004 on my 2003 Supercharged Ford Lightning.

Still thinking about the headlight wiring…..but I did notice that if you unclip the alternator wire off the sub frame of the car and re-route it back under the oil pan, it will reach to the relocated fusebox right back onto the side terminal like it was before. I will take pics of that today.

Sorry that I can only post pics and discuss my findings on this relocation.... Instead of a full blown "how to"....my car is SOOOOOOO far from stock that it wouldnt really help anyone to do exactly like I am doing, but I hope that my pictures will possibly help someone somewhere along the way.

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by EZ SPEED

Can you give me some part numbers and pics of the AN pressure fittings please? I already have some AN line that snapped onto the factory line that came with my supercharger kit, but I would really like to run those fittings that you are talking about and make a cleaner – easier install. that way I can cut the line further back on the frame-rail and use braided line all the way up to where it tees off to the fuel rails

Had to go in my garage to find them. Had them there for more months than I care to admit, LOL. I took a piece of the factory hard line I cut off to AN Pluming http://www.anplumbing.com and they gave me the right size fittings. I can't remember what size or part # but you could probably call them and show them the pics I posted and they should be able to give you the right size. I can't even remenber what the hell I ment by what I wrote on the sticky, LOL. I'm going to have my work cut out for me.





This is the five pieces assembled.





I will check into the EVAP stuff. I have HP Tuners software so it wouldn’t be a problem to turn it off in my tune.
hmmmmm ....I just remembered that I deleted all the EVAP stuff back in 2004 on my 2003 Supercharged Ford Lightning.

Still thinking about the headlight wiring…..

There's a total of two harness. The one for the accessories, lights, horns, fans, etc. connects to a plug coming out next to the Master cylinder. It runs behind the engine and goes to the fuse box before split to the accessories. If you disconnect all the accessories, you can reroute it through all whole inside the air box that passes to the wheel well. This will allow you to run that entire harness to all the accessories from the outside.

but I did notice that if you unclip the alternator wire off the sub frame of the car and re-route it back under the oil pan, it will reach to the relocated fuse-box right back onto the side terminal like it was before. I will take pics of that today.

Sorry that I can only post pics and discuss my findings on this relocation.... Instead of a full blown "how to"....my car is SOOOOOOO far from stock that it wouldn't really help anyone to do exactly like I am doing, but I hope that my pictures will possibly help someone somewhere along the way.

For anybody attempting this, any picture you post helps!

Couple of pics from PIC where the fuse box was relocated to the glove box. The PCM was mounted below the passager seat. I'm thinking I'm going to go this route as I might not even reinstall the air box cover.

Heres a couple of pics





Hope that helps

[NEGXXIS]

Thanks for your help. but before you posted this I did some research and found a lot of guys using this fitting : http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_...t=SS-600-6-6AN
I am familiar with these fittings here at work (aerospace) and i know these are rated to like 2000 psi. So I ordered one last night.

Here is where some guys are talking about them:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...uel-lines.html

I already have some -6 push loc hose left over from when I converted my step dads 1967 Chevy truck to a fuel injected ram jet 350, so I also ordered some -6 fittings and a "y" shaped fuel block to feed my fuel rails. hopefully I can start on that this weekend.



I considered moving my fuse box to the glove box like that, but wasnt willing to give up the space for it to go there..lol

[NEGXXIS]

More wiring, this time I was working on the engine harness.
since now my fuse box rear be a the rear of engine I am running the wiring from behind the engine instead of in front...... so basically this puts my injector harness backwards, so I decided to move pins around in the connector insted of cutting and splicing ANOTHER 16 wires (2 per injector x 8 injectors)

It really wasnt bad at all...and MUCH quicker than rewiring everything. I made good notes also to keep in my book so that if I ever need to troubleshoot any wiring, I can reference my notes so that I will have documented the wiring color changes for each injector.
Here is a pic of the harness..ugh..LOL