11.8@118

[Trackman]

Originally Posted by SonnyakaPig

Does your ZL1 have any mods?

124 trap is really fast this time of year.

Ya I have similar HP to Tpower. (low 60 temp that day)

Tpower, sorry if my earlier remarks were inappropriate for the tread. Judging by your experience you looked like a good guy to ask for tips.

[SonnyakaPig]

Originally Posted by Trackman

Ya I have similar HP to Tpower. (low 60 temp that day)

Tpower, sorry if my earlier remarks were inappropriate for the tread. Judging by your experience you looked like a good guy to ask for tips.

Nice. Thanks for the response.

[tpower]

Originally Posted by Trackman

Ya I have similar HP to Tpower. (low 60 temp that day)

Tpower, sorry if my earlier remarks were inappropriate for the tread. Judging by your experience you looked like a good guy to ask for tips.

I am hear to help how ever I can I am not a a racer just a guy who likes to have fun. I also post the truth even if I dont run big numbers. All my dyno # and road course # and 1/4 mile # I always back up with documents. I am just posting my experiences with the ZL1 and glad we can have a great conversation about these topics and I get some great feed back and help.

[BoostedX2]

Originally Posted by MikeOD

I think your dyno is a heart breaker for numbers and your Cobra was making more than 430...most pullied/tuned/headered Terminators put down high 400's, and most of them that are running real well with those mods are mid-high 11's around the 120mph trap speed...sometimes you see the trailer queen that "made 505" or 515...and never races...and most likely would trap lower and not ET well either.



Here's exactly what the stock ZL1 tune does for spark correction based on intake air temp, cylinder air mass, coolant temp, and RPM. What you'll see from the coolant temp table, is around the temp where the thermostat would keep the car on the highway (194ish) the multiplier is 1 to 0.90 at 212...so as your coolant comes up over 200, it will actually pull LESS timing due to elevated IAT. At 86 degrees intake air temp you'll see the multiplier would say to pull no timing at all, at any RPM, and progressively more and more as IAT climbs, and then the air mass table is the general lookup table for air mass versus IAT that those 2 multipliers are affecting....so you lookup the general number, then multiply it by the coolant temp correction, then make note of your RPM AND IAT, and multiply it by the other table. Get it?

Don't move the IAT sensor to the airbox blindly...then the data is lying to the computer and the knock sensors will have to cover for it...do everything you can to help the intercooler/heat exchanger keep the IAT down low near 86 I know a lot of Cobra guys run ice water tanks for their heat exchangers to do just that. After you've done that, you could probably make the lookup table less agressive as you tune, paying careful attention to AFR, injector duty cycle, and knock...if you can make it less agressive (pulling less spark) without making the knock sensors unhappy, then the car should be able to go faster...if you can't, then you're probably getting all you can out of it already.

Thank you so much, don't understand it all but the bottom line seems to be for max power keep the IAT low near 86!

That's exactly why I am considering the active interhiller that TREKGTO offers, seems to me that having 100% available power in any weather is the most effective mod, doesn't void warranty, and is especially effective in louisiana. I would much appreciate your opinion on this!!

Thanks again!

T

[MikeOD]

Originally Posted by jleews6

Good info Mike. Back in 03 there wasn't to many Cobras making high 400 with just a pulley,mail tune,cat back and a cai.
My basically stock WS6 (headers and a lid) made 350 and went 114 at full weight and that's faster then allot of stock ZL1s. I know they weigh allot more but it just shows what they are capable of running. I'm just trying to show that I think these ZL1s are capable of going fast but people just need to take the time to have them track ready when they go.

Do you agree in that a stock ZL1 stick should run 120 or close to in stock trim? or am I just thinking way off?

Yes, I think a stock ZL1, in good weather, that isn't heat soaked, should be able to run 120-122 mph.

Something that is a MAJOR effect on MPH at the track is no lift shifting...your 03 Cobra had a throttle cable, and so did your WS.6...so they actually listened to your right foot. The stock calibration in the E38's on the LS3 cars closes the throttle when you shift no matter what (mine doesn't anymore ). The E67 in the ZL1's most likely does as well, though I haven't actually looked that far into it.

Originally Posted by Mr T

Thank you so much, don't understand it all but the bottom line seems to be for max power keep the IAT low near 86!

That's exactly why I am considering the active interhiller that TREKGTO offers, seems to me that having 100% available power in any weather is the most effective mod, doesn't void warranty, and is especially effective in louisiana. I would much appreciate your opinion on this!!

Thanks again!

T

Exactly, do what you can to keep the coolant temps around 195-200, and also do what you can to make the air coming out of the blower and through the intercooler as cold as you can, and your car will go it's fastest.

[jleews6]

Originally Posted by MikeOD

Yes, I think a stock ZL1, in good weather, that isn't heat soaked, should be able to run 120-122 mph.

Something that is a MAJOR effect on MPH at the track is no lift shifting...your 03 Cobra had a throttle cable, and so did your WS.6...so they actually listened to your right foot. The stock calibration in the E38's on the LS3 cars closes the throttle when you shift no matter what (mine doesn't anymore ). The E67 in the ZL1's most likely does as well, though I haven't actually looked that far into it.



Exactly, do what you can to keep the coolant temps around 195-200, and also do what you can to make the air coming out of the blower and through the intercooler as cold as you can, and your car will go it's fastest.

That stinks. I hope that ,that can but taken out in the tune because your right in that shifting it without lifting is much faster. Some of these T56s you can shift without lifting and just stab the clutch. A good shifter with an extended handle make it allot better also.

[HDRDTD]

Originally Posted by jleews6

That stinks. I hope that ,that can but taken out in the tune because your right in that shifting it without lifting is much faster. Some of these T56s you can shift without lifting and just stab the clutch. A good shifter with an extended handle make it allot better also.

The 2013 ZL1 M6 does have the no-lift-shift feature.

[MikeOD]

Originally Posted by jleews6

That stinks. I hope that ,that can but taken out in the tune because your right in that shifting it without lifting is much faster. Some of these T56s you can shift without lifting and just stab the clutch. A good shifter with an extended handle make it allot better also.

TR6060...they shift a million times better than a T56.

Originally Posted by HDRDTD

The 2013 ZL1 M6 does have the no-lift-shift feature.

I'll look in a tune when I can.

[jimmy5]

Moving the IAT to the air box is the most accurate air temp readings I believe. Staying above the exhaust manifold is what gives artificially high results.

[boxmonkeyracing]

Originally Posted by MikeOD

TR6060...they shift a million times better than a T56.

the aftermarket name for the TR6060 if you were to order one is T56 magnum. so one could still call it a t56. . .just sayin.

[Higgs Boson]

Originally Posted by MikeOD

Yes, I think a stock ZL1, in good weather, that isn't heat soaked, should be able to run 120-122 mph.

Something that is a MAJOR effect on MPH at the track is no lift shifting...your 03 Cobra had a throttle cable, and so did your WS.6...so they actually listened to your right foot. The stock calibration in the E38's on the LS3 cars closes the throttle when you shift no matter what (mine doesn't anymore ). The E67 in the ZL1's most likely does as well, though I haven't actually looked that far into it.



Exactly, do what you can to keep the coolant temps around 195-200, and also do what you can to make the air coming out of the blower and through the intercooler as cold as you can, and your car will go it's fastest.

tb doesnt close if u tune it out, so thats not no matter what.....

[gonabite]

Originally Posted by jimmy5

Moving the IAT to the air box is the most accurate air temp readings I believe. Staying above the exhaust manifold is what gives artificially high results.

First of all everyone talking about moving the IAT sensor in the LSA or LS9 is just not educated about the cars.

There are two IATs in the car one in the intake tube IAT #1` and the other is in the blower IAT #2. You cant read this IAT with standard scan u software, you would need HP tuners or EFI live to read this.

The one in the blower is the important one. The blower creates a tremendous amount of heat. Once the blower temps exceed 140F the ECM starts to pull timing. This can be adjusted, but to a point if you want to keep your motor in one piece. The blower can see temps well in excess of 200F and much more. If you really think tricking the IAT into seeing lower temps is good and then stuffing 200F degree air into your cylinders at full spark is good. Then you need more of an education.

What is needed if more coolant capacity for the intercooler. Look at some of Redline Motorposrts results with IATs using there custom coolant tank designed for the ZL1. IATs stay nice and cool even under full throttle pulls.

These are not NA motors where relocating the IAT for a 20 degree drop in temp was beneficial and safe for more power.

[Higgs Boson]

the point of relocating the iat in an na car is not to trick anything but to remove heatsoak in the sensor and read actual air.

in an fi car, you need to use iat2 in the manifold.

[jimmy5]

Originally Posted by gonabite

First of all everyone talking about moving the IAT sensor in the LSA or LS9 is just not educated about the cars.

There are two IATs in the car one in the intake tube IAT #1` and the other is in the blower IAT #2. You cant read this IAT with standard scan u software, you would need HP tuners or EFI live to read this.

The one in the blower is the important one. The blower creates a tremendous amount of heat. Once the blower temps exceed 140F the ECM starts to pull timing. This can be adjusted, but to a point if you want to keep your motor in one piece. The blower can see temps well in excess of 200F and much more. If you really think tricking the IAT into seeing lower temps is good and then stuffing 200F degree air into your cylinders at full spark is good. Then you need more of an education.

What is needed if more coolant capacity for the intercooler. Look at some of Redline Motorposrts results with IATs using there custom coolant tank designed for the ZL1. IATs stay nice and cool even under full throttle pulls.

These are not NA motors where relocating the IAT for a 20 degree drop in temp was beneficial and safe for more power.

I am going to check into that cooler reservoir, you know about how much they run?