02-17-2015, 09:33 PM | #15 |
Drives: 2022 2SS Convertible Join Date: May 2011
Location: Ontario
Posts: 96
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This is what they were suggesting.
A typical brake service* includes the following: General inspection of the front or rear brake system. Cleaning or removing any debris or corrosion. Lubricating the moving brake components. Reassembling and road testing. I said no because the cost was outrageous. Just double checking to make sure I was doing the right thing. What else should I always say no to? |
02-17-2015, 09:36 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro ZL1, 2006 Chevy Equinox Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 833
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As your fellow ontarian who has had this line given to him at the dealer, its a waste of time. The service manager felt ashamed he even asked me, because I just laughed. Next they will be flushing my blinker fluid! On top of that they wanted 140 dollars, the exact service he described would take me about 15 to 20 minutes using a lift by myself.
What they do is remove the caliper, clean everything with brake clean, lube the slides and lightly sand the pads to remove any glazing. They claim its needed every 30 000km! This is a ridiculous claim. Under normal conditions, brakes need to be serviced when the pads are worn out, that's it. Re lubricating the slides is justifiable (but not that frequently), however the slides are sealed and don't need to be re lubricated unless you are doing a brake job. Don't be fooled by the dealer.
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Last edited by SnowyCamaro; 02-17-2015 at 09:56 PM. |
02-17-2015, 09:41 PM | #17 | |
Drives: 2011 IOM 2SS/RS M6 Convertible Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 1,287
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Quote:
This is how dealers or other shops that offer free or really cheap oil changes pay for them, by upselling. Other things to say no to? Letting places like this work on your car.
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02-17-2015, 09:52 PM | #18 | |
Drives: 2013 Camaro ZL1, 2006 Chevy Equinox Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 833
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Quote:
Undercoating (Waste of money, usually causes more problems than solves, oil spray is good if you drive in winter climate, but don't let the dealer do that). Tire Rotation (Our tires are staggered, can't be rotated) Buying any tires from a dealer (If you want to pay triple for tires, then buy them at the dealer) Brake Service (You know this one) Doing things in pairs (If you car has a blown shock, bad caliper etc, "one is broken but it is good practice to do both sides" when the other side is fine. Dont fall for this) ** People may argue on this one... Frequent Coolant Flushes (Frequent coolant flushes are not necessary, I've run the same coolant in many cars for 8+ years no issues. But the newer organic coolants do need to be flushed from time to time now. VW I work on needed one, car would start to run hot when the coolant was past its prime. Only car I've ever seen do this. That being said, it is good practice to check all levels of fluid in the car regularly.) Nitrogen Filled Tires (Air is 70% nitrogen, really? you need that extra 30%. Their properties are not very different.) Buying Any Generic Part from a Dealer (Wiper Blades, light bulbs etc. If you pay them to install any of these... god help you ) That's all I can think of for now.
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02-18-2015, 12:39 AM | #19 |
Would rather be riding
Drives: No car no more Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Indiana
Posts: 2,750
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Brembo calipers are high performance calipers.
They do indeed require maintenance.
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No dog in this fight anymore.
5th Gen owner 2009-2016. |
02-18-2015, 12:43 AM | #20 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2015 Redhot 1LE Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Westchester NY
Posts: 1,409
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02-18-2015, 02:17 AM | #21 | |
Drives: 2011 IOM 2SS/RS M6 Convertible Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 1,287
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Quote:
Another place I don't replace sets is injectors on our trucks, they have such a wide range of life spans its just a waste of money to replace them preemptively I've seen them fail at 300,000 miles and seen them last nearly 2 million. So they get replaced one at a time as they fail.
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02-18-2015, 05:52 AM | #22 |
Drives: 19' ZL1 A10, w/pdr Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: S.W. ohio
Posts: 1,557
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It takes longer to jack up the car and take off the wheels than to change pads and do an inspection of the calipers on Brembo brakes. They are made to change pads at track side in minutes, so it's an easy job. DIY
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02-18-2015, 08:42 AM | #23 | |
Drives: 2011 1LT Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Crestline, CA
Posts: 3,029
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Quote:
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02-18-2015, 08:59 AM | #24 | |
Drives: 2011 1LT Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Crestline, CA
Posts: 3,029
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Quote:
And, seriously, the oil change chains? They ONLY survive by performing--- or CLAIMING to perform--- utter bullshit repairs/ maintenance. They would not survive, except for the soccer- mom/ elderly person/ dude- who- has-never- turned- a- wrench contingent who actually believe that their transmission fluid is badly burned (and needs a full flush), that their coolant has expired (because it needs to be changed every 5000 miles or less), or that the differential is only three miles from disintegration... unless they do some MAJOR work on it right f'n now. If you walk out of an oil change shithole spending less than $250, they are pissed off, because they NEED to squeeze more out of you. (Oh, and, yes, many will argue with the "doing things in pairs" notion, but I fully agree: Just because ONE headlight has gone out, does not mean that it makes sense to throw out a perfectly good one, too. I'll wait until the next one goes, which might not happen for 15 years) (...and nitrogen- filled tires? I'll even counter that the air we USUALLY fill our tires with is nearly 80% nitrogen (as opposed to 70%, above), so "filling them with nitrogen" simply changes the ratio of oxygen to nitrogen only very slightly, and changes the ratio of expenditure to savings by a certain amount) |
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02-19-2015, 03:18 AM | #25 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
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replace your rotors with oem or better. the crap you buy at the parts store is at ar below min thickness already. I use to drive my own van for a living. replaces rotors and pads every 3 months. I would bring a micrometer with me.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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02-19-2015, 04:54 PM | #26 |
www.Camaro5store.com
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"Brake" thread moved from the general section to the proper "brake forum."
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Tags |
brakes, dealer, maintenance |
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