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Old 06-03-2014, 09:00 PM   #15
Stephen12ZL1


 
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Go see Steve at Performance Autosport and run the car on the dyno...he will figure it out no problem
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'21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60'
'17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold)
'15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold)
'12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)
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Old 06-03-2014, 09:02 PM   #16
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In my sig...I have skinny fronts as listed but two sets of rears. That night I was using replica Z06 18x9.5" 40mm offset with 305/35-18 m/t drag radials. Fronts are 17x4.5 Weld RTS.
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'21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60'
'17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold)
'15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold)
'12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)
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Old 06-03-2014, 10:13 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1 View Post
wow...that sucks. If the ignition were at fault, you would most likely have a CEL light with a misfire. Log a few runs and see what the data shows. 6spd or auto?
I was thinking the same, but no light. M6 car. Frustrating, to say the least...
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Old 06-03-2014, 11:51 PM   #18
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Not exactly sure what the problem is, yet. Tracked the car last weekend and after 8 passes, the highest trap speed was 111. Car was falling on its face after about the 330 line. I think it's an ignition issue. I am waiting on new plug wires to get here. Changing the plugs too. I have the worlds slowest 600+rwhp ZL1.
Sounds like it is pulling a lot of timing. Do you have anything to monitor your IAT2?
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Old 06-04-2014, 05:40 AM   #19
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someone needs to check to see if the intercooler pump/circuit is functioning properly
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'21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60'
'17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold)
'15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold)
'12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)
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Old 06-04-2014, 06:34 AM   #20
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Forgot to post...no records or PB but decent. The DA was +964. Richmond Dragway on 5/23/14. 100 octane tune with 305/35-18 M/T drag radials. Right lane "SELDEN".
Nice run. People would kill for a slip like that and your driving around with them in your pockets like uncashed cheques!!!!
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Old 06-04-2014, 06:42 AM   #21
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Wow, you cut a 1.50 60 foot on the 18" MT. That is a 26.5" tire. I don't what to think with all the talk about tire sizes. I've got people telling me I need the 17" Hoosier drag radial due to my tall gear ratios.....it is only 25.9".
I thought the 17" Hoosiers were 28" tall. I had a couple of 1.5x 60' last Friday on them. If they were 25.9 would they screw up the ABS and stabilitrack running with stock fronts?? I've got skinny Hoosiers coming now, I hope they help. My car wanders a lot with the Hoosiers on the back and stock radials on the front.
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:17 AM   #22
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I thought the 17" Hoosiers were 28" tall. I had a couple of 1.5x 60' last Friday on them. If they were 25.9 would they screw up the ABS and stabilitrack running with stock fronts?? I've got skinny Hoosiers coming now, I hope they help. My car wanders a lot with the Hoosiers on the back and stock radials on the front.
A hoosier 17" slick IS 28" tall.
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Old 06-04-2014, 07:55 AM   #23
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A hoosier 17" slick IS 28" tall.
That's what I thought
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:18 PM   #24
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That's what I thought
Correct the slick is 28" but the 17" drag radial is only 25.9"

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....dewall=Painted White Letters&partnum=335R7DDR&tab=Specs

They say if you want to lower the gearing without changing driveline parts this is the tire..... I may try it eventually....

I have mixed the front and rear sizes by 2" differences in the past and yes it does give a stabilitrack warning and then it turns stabilitrack off but the car drives fine after you ignore the message in the information box.... as long you have the ability to safely drive the car with no nannies....
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Old 06-05-2014, 06:10 AM   #25
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Jess...at your power level with an M6 worrying about tire heights affect on overall gear ratio isn't as important as finding the right tire (sidewall) that will transfer that energy to the ground.
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Old 06-05-2014, 12:24 PM   #26
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Jess...at your power level with an M6 worrying about tire heights affect on overall gear ratio isn't as important as finding the right tire (sidewall) that will transfer that energy to the ground.
I agree the first 60 feet are very important but there is another 1260 feet you still have to cover after this. At least for my car, I may be better off if I lose a 10th or two on the first 60 ft if the car is able to run the rest of the track faster. Since I put the 3.23 rear end in my car, the mph has taken a huge drop because the car can't pull the taller gears as well. Plus I'm hitting the limiter in 3rd gear with about 300 feet of track left. so I barely get into 4th before I cross the finish. This did not happen with stock gearing but the stock gearing didn't not work for the mile..... I have got to hit 200mph in 5th and to do that I must have the 3.23 rear. It is very difficult to gear the car once where it will work at all of the racing venues. I'm thinking some flexibility with tire height will make a difference. The guys at RPM transmission are the ones telling me to run the short Hoosier drag radial to Drag race. They sponsor the LSX drag series.... I just don't know anyone trying to run one on a ZL1. So I'm throwing it out there. Even with a manual transmission, I should have enough power to get into the 9's if I can get everything set up right. Right now I'm running pretty even with Stephen12 with a LOT more power, so I'm looking for some insight.

Traction has not been my problem the last couple of 1/4 mile outings. The M&H 17" drag radial does not spin a lick....
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2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date.
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Old 06-05-2014, 12:38 PM   #27
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I agree the first 60 feet are very important but there is another 1260 feet you still have to cover after this. At least for my car, I may be better off if I lose a 10th or two on the first 60 ft if the car is able to run the rest of the track faster. Since I put the 3.23 rear end in my car, the mph has taken a huge drop because the car can't pull the taller gears as well. Plus I'm hitting the limiter in 3rd gear with about 300 feet of track left. so I barely get into 4th before I cross the finish. This did not happen with stock gearing but the stock gearing didn't not work for the mile..... I have got to hit 200mph in 5th and to do that I must have the 3.23 rear. It is very difficult to gear the car once where it will work at all of the racing venues. I'm thinking some flexibility with tire height will make a difference. The guys at RPM transmission are the ones telling me to run the short Hoosier drag radial to Drag race. They sponsor the LSX drag series.... I just don't know anyone trying to run one on a ZL1. So I'm throwing it out there. Even with a manual transmission, I should have enough power to get into the 9's if I can get everything set up right. Right now I'm running pretty even with Stephen12 with a LOT more power, so I'm looking for some insight.

Traction has not been my problem the last couple of 1/4 mile outings. The M&H 17" drag radial does not spin a lick....
I ran the same 26" tall hoosier dr's on my M6 SS and A6 Zl1 with no issues , other than the afforemetioned stabiltrak going nuts if you don't turn it off. I don't remember the formula, but it effectively changed the 3.42 to somewhere around a 3.80 in the SS. Might be the ticket to gearing your car better for the quarter mile.
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:38 PM   #28
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I ran the same 26" tall hoosier dr's on my M6 SS and A6 Zl1 with no issues , other than the afforemetioned stabiltrak going nuts if you don't turn it off. I don't remember the formula, but it effectively changed the 3.42 to somewhere around a 3.80 in the SS. Might be the ticket to gearing your car better for the quarter mile.
Its funny because I usually put my 26" road racing tires up front because they are so light and that throws all of my stabilitrack issues, the 26" drag radial would probably be perfect with the road racing front.... I suspect when I wear out the M&H my next 17" drag radial will be the Hoosiers.
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2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date.
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