02-21-2014, 10:33 PM | #43 |
Drives: 2010 IOM 2ss/RS Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SoCal, I.E.
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I just put tr7ix in based on my tuners recommendation. that pic above looks a lot like what happened to my first engine (stock)...don't need that again lol.
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02-22-2014, 02:41 AM | #44 |
Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
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So that's the consensus that a spark plug did that?
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Retired wanna be cylinder head porter
2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X |
02-22-2014, 07:01 AM | #45 |
Drives: 2007 Corvette C6 983 RWHP Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Montreal, Canada
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This happened on a dyno. Things were controlled as far as air/fuel, timing, etc. The plugs were overlooked and it was the opinion of the tuner that the plugs caused detonation which caused the carnage.
It was a shop test car which was getting a new engine either way and they were just trying to see how much the LS3 could take. Its a shame they overlooked proper plug selection and never really found out the limit of the stock engine, but $#@# happens. I don't really get into spark plug discussions, because almost no one uses the plugs I do, or agrees with my choice. I use only Brisk Silver Tips. Silver is a better conductor and the main benefit is a silver tip will melt before getting hot enough to cause detonation. This is a fantastic safety feature of silver tips, as the pictures I posted shows.
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2007 C6 vert, auto, F55, LT3
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02-22-2014, 07:27 AM | #46 |
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02-22-2014, 07:28 AM | #47 |
Drives: Blown G8 GT Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Orlando, FL
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So on a forged ls3, 9.5:1 cr, 12-14lbs of boost on 93octane and methanol, I will be using br7.
Is this right? |
02-22-2014, 08:04 AM | #48 |
Drives: 96SS Join Date: May 2009
Location: New Castle Delaware
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02-22-2014, 08:16 AM | #49 |
Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Vance Alabama
Posts: 8,018
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Looks to me it was just a mechanical failure. That also sucks and also happens.
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Retired wanna be cylinder head porter
2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X |
02-22-2014, 10:19 AM | #50 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS, 2008 Heritage 300C Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Wisconsin
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So what would be the difference at my power level between a BR7EF and a B8EFS? (Assuming my build will reach 800-850rwhp)
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02-22-2014, 12:00 PM | #51 |
Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange SS Convertible Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tyrone, PA
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NGK's gave me a low rpm light throttle miss after a couple hundred miles.
Brisk GR12S plugs worked good for me, would use them again but I wanted to try an iridium plug. At 13 psi and a 125 shot plug choice is critical. The Denso IT's have been perfect. I'll sell you a set of Brisk GR12S plugs for $40 shipped if you want them. Have maybe 1000 miles on them at the most. They are gapped at .040, you would want to regap them to about .028 for your boost, or I can do that if you want. I was using them at lower boost, and then decided they were too cold so I went with a warmer plug. I then upped the boost and added spray and decided to go with cold Denso iridiums, so I don't need these anymore. I also have a set of Denso IT-22's I'll sell for $60 shipped. Again, with nitrous and boost they worked but for safety I wanted to go another step colder so I don't need these anymore. Have maybe 500 miles on them.
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2011 SS IOM Vert. ECS Vortech 13+ psi, Water/Meth, ID850’s, ZL1 pump with MSD Voltage Booster, 2800 stall, LT headers, Drag radials, Drag alignment, Cradle Bushings. A million other supporting mods. Tuned by Ted.
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02-22-2014, 12:01 PM | #52 | |
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Quote:
The main difference is the -8 plug will be a step colder, little better safeguard against detonation.
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02-22-2014, 12:32 PM | #53 |
Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange SS Convertible Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tyrone, PA
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Too hot of a plug in a combo will melt itself and might melt your motor with it. Too cold will carbon foul, especially with a lot of idling and low rpm driving with no WOT blasts. A rich tune will help it foul quicker. Most seem to start stepping colder from factory plug heat range. In reality you should put in the coldest plug you think you can run without fouling, then step warmer if it does foul. I'd start with an 8 heat range if I were you. Most likely a 7 or an 8 will be fine for your setup. The Brisk GR12S is an NGK8 range and it's non projected tip. The Denso IT-22's are an NGK 7 heat range and are also non projected tip.
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2011 SS IOM Vert. ECS Vortech 13+ psi, Water/Meth, ID850’s, ZL1 pump with MSD Voltage Booster, 2800 stall, LT headers, Drag radials, Drag alignment, Cradle Bushings. A million other supporting mods. Tuned by Ted.
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02-24-2014, 02:55 AM | #54 |
Which would be best out of these for me? TR6 or BR6EF, Im at 600 rwhp/9.5psi with 10:1 & does alot of roun town d/d, tried TR7IX's that came with whipple but after a while started to foul, ran ok but took alot to start. Currently using the ZR1's which seem great but obviously not right choice going by what I've read on forums.
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02-24-2014, 04:34 AM | #55 |
PHAT B33
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I'd switch to the BR6EF or 7. Get away from the projected tip on boost.
I favor to go colder than most do and only go a step hotter if I foul one out. I'm running the 7's on E85 at 10 psi.
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02-24-2014, 10:40 AM | #56 | |
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