BBK Really Necessary? Also...Wilwood's?

[Todd TCE]

No hard sell here Synner. I'm simply posting my experiences with both the product and customer base for years. The comment I quoted is made on every forum, every time the topic comes up. And usually by those who've never had one.

Doublebank echoes the same comments I hear all the time once folks take the plunge.

[Synner]

I've driven things from miatas to corvettes with big brake kits. Agree to disagree on the need to spend $7-8k on grocery getting linearity.

[47AJV8]

Thanks for all the input, ya there are no tracks even remotely near by, so I'm thinking lighter rotors are probably the way to go! (And stickier tires of course!)

[jeremywes]

Ofcourse there is one thing that we have not considered.... The cool factor. Big brakes just look cool! PERIOD

[Todd TCE]

I apologize if I offended anyone last night with my comments. That was not the intent.

My comments were based on how folks reply to the question of need, want, use etc of a big brake kit. In general my comments apply to anyone in the business of selling big brakes.

Had the OP said he was shopping 22" wheels, aluminum pedal pads or LED tail lights I suspect the replies would be different. Does anyone jump in and tell the poster that he/she doesn't need these items or how they are too expensive or not necessary for a daily driver? I could counter the need for any of that pretty easy and so could you. And yet when the subject of big brakes comes up it seems there's the call-to-arms to save the buyer from wasting his money. I guess I don't get that.

Yes there are some gains to be had with the fit of alternate pads and stainless steel hoses with fresh brake fluid. I've referred to that as a "brake enhancement" package and it clearly is the best way to maximize stock brake performance. It's still never going to be on par with a big brake kit tho. *As a side note I'd say that the fit of lighter rotors is not the direction to go- unless a wheel fit thing (think 15s) the less mass in the rotor the greater the heat saturation point.


Anyhow, moving on; if you or anyone has specific big brake needs or questions on any of the Wilwood product feel free to ask. As you know I have no problem giving my opinions either, it's part of the whole forum way of sharing ideas and such.

[47AJV8]

Well I can say, if I'm going BBK, definitely Wilwoods, can't beat 'em for the price. But have you guys heard anything about those "PowerStop" brake kits? They're just rotors and pads, run about 250-300, waste of money? Opinions?
@Todd Who knows, I might need some 34"s! ;P

[Synner]

Most low priced rotors are no better than stock, many are worse. The market gets flooded with bad metal, flimsy, easily warped overseas junk. I would avoid anything drilled, slotted is ok. I also wouldn't run generic cheap pads if you're looking for improved performance.

You're kind of looking at the extreme opposite end of big brakes and upgrades now. What exactly are you wanting to achieve and what is your budget?

[Todd TCE]

Originally Posted by nbrigdan

But have you guys heard anything about those "PowerStop" brake kits? They're just rotors and pads, run about 250-300, waste of money? Opinions?
@Todd Who knows, I might need some 34"s! ;P

From a pure functionality standpoint; a rotor with slots, holes, dimples or any other surface treatment won't make more brake torque. It's like handing you a rubber handled ratchet vs the steel one; it feels nicer but if it's the same length you still pull as hard. These finishes can however 'enhance' the pad to rotor interface and help wipe clean the boundary layer created so that's not a bad thing.

There's nothing "wrong" with these or any other stock replacement rotor...they just don't do anything your stock ones don't. The pads and hoses are far more important for you bite and fee.



**We'll set you up with a 16" front kit both ends- hows that?

[47AJV8]

Originally Posted by Synner

Most low priced rotors are no better than stock, many are worse. The market gets flooded with bad metal, flimsy, easily warped overseas junk. I would avoid anything drilled, slotted is ok. I also wouldn't run generic cheap pads if you're looking for improved performance.

You're kind of looking at the extreme opposite end of big brakes and upgrades now. What exactly are you wanting to achieve and what is your budget?

I'm just trying to decide whether it's worth it or not, the car is for mountain carving, no track at all, and i'm looking for about 600 WHP, so really the question is, is there a point in dropping 4K on big brakes, or should I save it for other stuff?

@Todd Haha, those might be a little *too* big!

Last question, is it OK to do just front Big Brakes? Or is that a bad idea?

[Synner]

I would consider something like this:
http://marylandspeed.com/build-your-...wk-p-3441.html
Combined with lines, good fluid, and something like a HP+ pad and you've have great braking.
Front brakes do 70% of braking so they're the most critical. As long as you don't create an unbalanced bias you're fine. This can be tweaked through brake pad selection slightly but I wouldn't go massive and tiny. I think you know where I stand on the big brake kits, best for heat management on track cars. I would put the money in the diff/axles/wheels/tires/bushings first before considering big brake kits. Those will be weak links before your brakes with that power on the street.

[47AJV8]

That looks like a good in between option, thanks. Also, trust me, I got the money for the Stage 3 Race Pack suspension squared away!

[Todd TCE]

Originally Posted by nbrigdan

Last question, is it OK to do just front Big Brakes? Or is that a bad idea?

That question depends upon exactly what you purchase for the front.

Purchasing a "brake enhancement package" for the front only is going to have little impact on things. On the other hand if you were to install a 14" front kit you'll be over biasing the front- depending exactly upon the piston area and pad type. Moving to some more aggressive pads alone up front can do that also but to a much lesser extent.

If I'm working on a custom project for someone one of the main questions I do ask is if they plan to do the front only or both axles? This is so we can pair the parts properly and keep the bias or balance in check. For example; of you did a front only kit and wanted six piston calipers I may choose to keep the piston area down on the 14" disc. This compensates for the larger rotor and lack of any change in the rear. On the other hand we could keep it up or more if we were also keeping the rear area up to match.

You're welcome to use the interactive Brake Bias Calculator on my web page for some testing of ideas.

[SSoCalChick]

Personally, I love my new Wilwood brakes from 2010CamaroStore.com!
Wilwood 6-piston on the front 22x8.5s and 4-piston on the rear 24x14s...