06-14-2013, 02:16 AM | #1 |
one car wolfpack
Drives: 2010 Camaro V6 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 1,226
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I would like to share a tip.
Just learned that instead of using precious detail spray or waterless wash you can use soap and water as lubricant for your clay. ...........
Why has no one told me this? |
06-14-2013, 02:35 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 10,305
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Yea lol you can
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06-14-2013, 04:41 AM | #3 |
Retired from Car mfrs....
Drives: 2LT RS/HR-V Join Date: May 2013
Location: /Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 10,048
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When I want to strip everything, I dawn wash the car. With suds on the car is when I clay too. Anything that makes the clay glide works. Rinse, and go right to polishing with the car wet too.....
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06-14-2013, 07:06 AM | #4 |
Drives: 1968 Coupe, 2010 2SS, 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WIsconsin
Posts: 1,252
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Agreed. I do the same thing, but will wash one more time then dry before polishing.
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06-14-2013, 07:34 AM | #5 |
Oldbie that nobody knows
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You must've had very little claying left to do, because soap/water will break down the clay after a little while.
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06-14-2013, 07:37 AM | #6 | |
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06-14-2013, 07:44 AM | #7 | |
Retired from Car mfrs....
Drives: 2LT RS/HR-V Join Date: May 2013
Location: /Fort Lauderdale
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Quote:
but for years I used griots clay, (properly rinsed afterwards), with Dawn and never saw any breakdown.... |
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06-14-2013, 07:54 AM | #8 |
ZLT!!! COTW (8/5/13)
Drives: 2011 IOM 1LT RS M6 Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Slatington, PA
Posts: 4,773
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So I read before that soap water was not good for claying, now it is? Confuse here???
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06-14-2013, 08:19 AM | #9 | |
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06-14-2013, 08:33 AM | #10 |
Retired from Car mfrs....
Drives: 2LT RS/HR-V Join Date: May 2013
Location: /Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 10,048
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06-14-2013, 08:33 AM | #11 |
Drives: . Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: .
Posts: 1,085
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"Precious" detail spray?
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06-14-2013, 08:39 AM | #12 | |
Oldbie that nobody knows
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Quote:
The only thing I've noticed that really gives my paint the advertised "glass" feel with little to no scratches is a traditional blue claybar. Sure, it takes forever but it's just what I like to do. *Shrug.* You can get a better feel of the contamination with a traditional claybar too. Odds are, you're going to mar your paint or scratch somewhere when using any mechanical decon method whether it's the sponge/towel or a claybar, because sometimes you really do gotta bear down hard with whatever you're using to get stubbon contamination out, which substantially raises your risk of scratching. But to think that with the sponge and towel; that the grit pretty much has nowhere to go but stay directly under the rubbery surface, is downright nauseating. At least with clay, there's a chance the grit will eventually sink into the clay where it can't scratch the paint. |
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06-14-2013, 08:55 AM | #13 | |
Retired from Car mfrs....
Drives: 2LT RS/HR-V Join Date: May 2013
Location: /Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 10,048
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Quote:
We certainly have two diff levels here: hobbyists and prof detailers. As a prof detailer many times I would make a decision that is not the same as a DD hobbyist. Now as a hobbyist, I have never seen any of the above creasing or marring with either the sponge or the speedy prep towl. Just a good clean base from which to start detailing. I don't use soap as I have plenty of waterless, but for someone that is cleaning/detailing his DD and claying like twice a year, I'm sure the saop is fine. I'll never use clay again after discovering the elastomeric products, particularly the speedy towel... |
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06-14-2013, 10:15 AM | #14 | |
Oldbie that nobody knows
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I've always said I'm old-fashioned for my age, even when it comes to detailing products, it seems. |
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