I don't know what to do...

[Dawn55430]

Originally Posted by SSBlack

A female should NEVER make her first car purchase alone. That's not politically correct, but we are talking about sharks here (dealerships) and that's the way it is.

Depends on the female. Those of us who do our research and have our facts and figures together don't worry about the sharks. I've always negotiated my own car deals, and the "boys club" is amazed that I can get such good deals.

The key is to stick to your guns, don't let them bully you into anything. If you feel the need to bring a man, make sure the dealer is well aware that YOU have the checkbook and credit rating, the guy is just there to window shop and maybe chauffeur you.

Personally, I get great satisfaction by patiently listening to them spout off a bunch of nonsense then watch them back pedal frantically trying to dig themselves out of the hole after I call them on every stupid comment. All with a smile and "gee whiz really, I'm pretty sure.....(insert truth here)". Another favorite is watching them attempt to talk over my head, and then asking something they can't answer. Fun times for all.

You DO NOT need a man to shop with you unless you feel the need for a backup or moral support.

[Fiveg56]

Originally Posted by nyrfan

No offense, but why does your used 11 2lt/rs have to do with a new 2013 1lt?

Again, the op DID NOT do bad on the price, the financing is the issue.


Sent from my 2LT/RS using Tapatalk

I agree. The price seems about right. This is a 2013 MY....lots of upgrades from 2012. Sure, she could get a 1LT for cheaper if she wanted a 2012...or a used one for that matter...but this is a new 2013.

[He11bent]

Let us know what GM does for you.

[z28-conv]

Hello Ariana,

I didn't read all of the posts but I know that Chevrolet does have a love it or leave it campaign that lasts for the first 60 days from the date of purchase. So you CAN return it. I know for sure you paid WAY to much for that car. You said that the car's MSRP was about 27000 dollars give or take right. You said you put down 3000 ? dollars right? and you also traded in your car? for a couple of thousand dollars too right? So it was about 29000 including tax tags etc. minus about what 6000 dollars down payment(3000 cash plus your old car) that should be about 23000 to finance right? They are making at least 2500-3000 profit on the new car and I don't know how profit they will make on your used car? Just take the car back and get your old one back. I recommend you call Becky at Rodgers Chevrolet also. I wish you luck. Keep us posted how things work out for you.

[z28-conv]

The best way to buy a car is not to go to the dealer at all! You call up a MINIMUM of 15 dealers after you find out what the Dealer invoice price is NOT THE MSRP! and you ask for the Sales managers name and fax number. You then FAX to each sales manager what color and options you want (be a little flexible maybe two colors you would like) With the knowledge of the dealers invoice price ( you can find this info online). If they want to sell you a car they will call you back (what dealer doesn't want to sell you a car?) I would say with fifteen dealers you should get at least 6-8 responses they will tell you what they are willing to sell the car to you for.. Starting with the highest price offer call up that dealer and tell him/her you were the highest out of the (15) dealers you faxed. Tell him/her the best price was ?????? . Let him/her respond either they will counter offer or say sorry. then go to the next highest priced dealer and work your way down the list.then start over from the highest to the lowest until you get down to the last two dealers with the exact car you want. I guarantee you will get a great deal that way! I have done it and on a 40000 dollar vehicle and paid only 32000 dollars for it!

P.S. end of the month but especially the end of the year is the best time to buy.

[2012ZL1]

Tell them to stuff it and buy your car elsewhere.

[CWI]

I have skipped from page 4 to here. I am at work and have a copy of the original front page of the contract for my Colorado I purchased in 2006 and payed off earlier this year. Right below the Federal Truth-In-Lending Disclosures, it says this,

"NOTICE: The Creditor/Seller intends to sell this contract to Americredit Financial (now part of GM Financial), which if it buys the contract, will become owner of the contract and your creditor. After the sale of this contract, all questions concerning either terms of the contract or payments should be directed to hte buyer of the contract at the address indicated above. If the contract is transferred to a holder other than the one identified in this notice, or retained by the Seller, Seller shall cause notice in writing of the name and address of the actual holder to be delivered to you within 10 days of the decision.
The Annual Percentage Rate may be negotiable with the seller. The Seller may assign this contract and retain it's right to receive a part of the finance charge." It goes on to say, " Sales Transaction Subject to Approval of financing. The sale of the vehicle to you is subject to approval of financing."
In addition, "Until irrrevocable contract acceptance by a third party or the Dealer, you shall have absolutely no right, title and interest in the vehicle."This pretty well gives us ALL the answer contrary to a comment I made in a previous post. I am also confident this is as much a federal contract standard as much as any state law but I am not certain of that. My contract was written in Oregon. being a liberal west coast state controlled by California transplants, I doubt it differs much from California.

I would suggest all the loud mouth forum lawyers with your big suggestions read your own contracts. I'm sure most of you have one. I doubt many of you paid cash for your car. And for the OP, sorry but you probably have two choices give the dealer what they want, or my choice would be to return it and buy elsewhere. You will probably get a better deal.

This contract also says in caps, "IF A THIRD PARTY OFFERS TO FINANCE THE VEHICLE ON TERMS OR CONDITIONS WHICH ARE DIFFERENT FROM THE TERMS OF THIS CONTRACT, YOU MAY RESCIND THE TRANSACTION AND SHALL NOT BE REQUIRED TO SIGN A NEW CONTRACT UNLESS YOU ELECT TO PROCEED WITH THE SALE."If your contract says this as well, you have two avenues out of the contract. This statement and "GM Total Confidence."

If everyone looks at their own contract, the on this thread would stop.

Good luck OP.

[Black N' Yellow]

Originally Posted by ArianaMangum

29,650 for the base LT out the door....they told me the invoice was 27,300.

I would return it for a full refund. That is more than my 2010 2SS/RS with 7000 miles cost me. You can get a way better deal than that.

[PoorMansCamaro]

[Bad@ssCamaro]

Originally Posted by z28-conv

The best way to buy a car is not to go to the dealer at all! You call up a MINIMUM of 15 dealers after you find out what the Dealer invoice price is NOT THE MSRP! and you ask for the Sales managers name and fax number. You then FAX to each sales manager what color and options you want (be a little flexible maybe two colors you would like) With the knowledge of the dealers invoice price ( you can find this info online). If they want to sell you a car they will call you back (what dealer doesn't want to sell you a car?) I would say with fifteen dealers you should get at least 6-8 responses they will tell you what they are willing to sell the car to you for.. Starting with the highest price offer call up that dealer and tell him/her you were the highest out of the (15) dealers you faxed. Tell him/her the best price was ?????? . Let him/her respond either they will counter offer or say sorry. then go to the next highest priced dealer and work your way down the list.then start over from the highest to the lowest until you get down to the last two dealers with the exact car you want. I guarantee you will get a great deal that way! I have done it and on a 40000 dollar vehicle and paid only 32000 dollars for it!
P.S. end of the month but especially the end of the year is the best time to buy.

WOOHOO!! Great advice, I'm surely going to try that!

[Ozzie RS]

You are doing the right thing by calling GM Customer Service and going from there. Car prices differ from different parts of the country folks. You don't know if she is talking with/without taxes, options, warranties, finance charges, etc. So many variables to consider.

In the back of the owners manual there is a procedure on how to deal with a situation like this and how to escalate a problem to the next level and who to contact. There is a Customer Service person on this web site too, I don't know his name but someone can chime in and give you his name to contact him to get things going from as many different ways as possible. It may take time but you will come out OK, I'm sure. Plus like someone said Chevrolet has a 100% satisfaction guarantee going on now so look into that also in case there is an expiration date, I know there is a mileage limit. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

[camarozzzz]

Originally Posted by Synerbee

29,650 for a 1LT?

Haha, in Canada that is nothing unusual.

[Fiveg56]

Originally Posted by Black N' Yellow

I would return it for a full refund. That is more than my 2010 2SS/RS with 7000 miles cost me. You can get a way better deal than that.

???? A brand new car costs alot more then a 3 year old used car. You can't compare them.

[austin]

Return under the 100% customer satisfaction campaign and call Becky. That is a win-win situation imo.