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Old 04-03-2017, 11:50 PM   #1
Quicklsa
 
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Lightbulb Next stage of mods...

Looking for a nice power increase... again. Already have ported blower and snout and 2.5 upper injectors and fuel pump on e85. So now I'm gonna have to break down and do, heads cam? Heads ported seem like the more expensive part for sure and I'm not seeing making much more power out of them with a stock displacement? I dunno could be wrong here. More interested in just a big cam and headers no meow, and a big lower pulley to make up some #'S. I could use some input here on the next stage let me know yalls experience on this
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Old 04-04-2017, 12:44 AM   #2
STUNNAH
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Looks like a good plan to go with what you have currently on the car...As far as displacement that's well beyond my knowledge and it would be a significant cost as well...Are you planning on building the car for drag racing only or is DD included???There's been a good ongoing discussion about cams recently (some members want them, while other members don't) I know that's not saying much but depending on your desired result that may be the better option for you...Lower pulley for sure and headers as well...What's your current RWHP and what is your desired RWHP???How much do you want to invest in the upgrades???
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Old 04-04-2017, 09:33 AM   #3
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I'm at 650 with the setup as it is now and I'm looking at these mods for possibly 750+ So big cam and heads if that's going to make that much difference and a 18 percent lower with headers
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Old 04-04-2017, 10:17 AM   #4
Can'tHave2MuchHP
 
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Add a BTR Stage III Cam (Big and lumpy but still drivable)
8.6" Lower pulley
Headers
Heat Exchanger (Especially for Texas). (Ron Davis or AFCO are my recommendations).

On most dynos you'll probably put down ~720WHP I'd say. You could do a 9.1" lower but that'd require a relocation bracket for the idlers as well as running significantly higher temps for probably a marginal gain of maybe 10-15 WHP.
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Old 04-04-2017, 12:48 PM   #5
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Oh yeah and already have a bigger heat exchanger and reservoir from dedicated motor sports too. Btr3 sounds like a ok cam, it's definitely on a lot of cars out there should be easy to tune too. My tuner Dsx Dave steck is great to work with as well. Also was interested in input on other cams as well like LS113016R130195
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Old 04-04-2017, 01:16 PM   #6
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Would you be looking for something more or less aggressive than a Stage 3 BTR? There's lots of options, but by far the most common one that I have seen is the BTR3. There are lot of cams I've heard that sound like garbage in the LSA, too clunky, sometimes rattly, and the sound becomes tinny and thin. Not a fan of the sound of a lot of cammed LSAs to be honest with you. To me the BTR sounds great and makes great power...Lots of member have it here and I'm sure they'll chime in.
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Old 04-04-2017, 03:06 PM   #7
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This is hard to answer without knowing your goal or budget, so I'll ask.

What are you trying to achieve in your next round of mods, and how much do you want to spend?
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Old 04-04-2017, 03:20 PM   #8
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Regarding ported LSA heads versus cam, you are likely looking at a 30 rwhp gain either way. Obviously the cam would be much cheaper than ported heads.

If you are going to spend the money on ported heads, I would suggest getting in touch with Tony at XtremeCFM (he has some budget options) or Tony Mamo for his ported TFS 255 heads. Those two guys will get you the biggest rwhp gain, which they both claim about 20-30 rwhp OVER a CNC or hand ported LSA head.

Ported LSA Heads will run you between $1,100 and $2,400, depending on valvetrain modifications.

Ported LS3 Style, like TFS 255's, will run you between $2,500 and $3,500, depending on valvetrain modifications.

WCCH offers some more expensive head options than what I have listed above, but on stock cubes, most people stick with ported LSA or LS3.

Last edited by kmkalkhoff; 04-04-2017 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 04-04-2017, 03:42 PM   #9
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I have a BTR 3 cam, and I would not describe it as big and lumpy. If you are experiencing this and it bothers you, get in touch with a good tuner and have them look at your tune. They should be able to tune it out.

My car idles and runs very smooth with the BTR 3 on 93 and E85. It has a nice lopey idle and you can feel a very slight shake at a complete stop, but like I said, I wouldn't call it big and lumpy. That's kind of misleading IMO.
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Old 04-04-2017, 04:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quicklsa View Post
I'm at 650 with the setup as it is now and I'm looking at these mods for possibly 750+ So big cam and heads if that's going to make that much difference and a 18 percent lower with headers
Sorry, when I read this post, I didn't realize it was from the OP.

If you are at 650 rwhp, and you are trying to get to 750 rwhp, a nice wet nitrous setup with a 100 shot would do the trick.

If you would rather try to get there without nitrous or meth, I would suggest the following:

2" Headers (check out Texas Speed - good value)
Ported Heads (see my suggestions above)
Cam (there are many options for our cars, just depends on where you want to see the most power - low range, mid range or top end)
9.55 crank w/ your current pulley
102mm TB w/ snout ported to match
4.5 or 5" intake (RPM will have a nice 5" option in a few weeks)
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Old 04-04-2017, 05:36 PM   #11
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Just don't find many real nice sounding zl1's out there at least I can't find them. Here's a ss video I found looking around. This is what I'm shooting for on the sound obviously not power wise no offense.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DXJylf8VX90
Anyone done the other cam options other than btr3 (it's not a bad option but I'm just looking for more chop) I'm in a m6 car so no stall needed. Sounds like I'm gonna leave the heads alone unless I find a cheap set... somehow but I doubt it. This is just for the budget I'm trying to stay in. I can do the headers myself and the lower pulley (now sold and I should have kept it just didn't think the wife would ever approve me doing this) is just parts cause the labor is in the cam. So I'm trying to stay as close to 3k as possible
The intake could be icing on the cake I would want one carbon fiber dipped to swap with my rot of a carbon fiber
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Old 04-04-2017, 06:10 PM   #12
Can'tHave2MuchHP
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmkalkhoff View Post
I have a BTR 3 cam, and I would not describe it as big and lumpy. If you are experiencing this and it bothers you, get in touch with a good tuner and have them look at your tune. They should be able to tune it out.

My car idles and runs very smooth with the BTR 3 on 93 and E85. It has a nice lopey idle and you can feel a very slight shake at a complete stop, but like I said, I wouldn't call it big and lumpy. That's kind of misleading IMO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmkalkhoff View Post
Sorry, when I read this post, I didn't realize it was from the OP.

If you are at 650 rwhp, and you are trying to get to 750 rwhp, a nice wet nitrous setup with a 100 shot would do the trick.

If you would rather try to get there without nitrous or meth, I would suggest the following:

2" Headers (check out Texas Speed - good value)
Ported Heads (see my suggestions above)
Cam (there are many options for our cars, just depends on where you want to see the most power - low range, mid range or top end)
9.55 crank w/ your current pulley
102mm TB w/ snout ported to match
4.5 or 5" intake (RPM will have a nice 5" option in a few weeks)
Sorry but I find a decent amount of your info a tad misleading as well. First off, the BTR is a stage 3 which you're right is not as aggressive as it gets, however it is Brian Tooley's most aggressive LSA cam.

Also, a 9.55" is entirely too much pulley to go with a 2.5". And you don't have to ask many people to find that out. The efficiency isn't the problem...the problem is BEARINGs and HEAT. Both of which will be immense. You'll need E85, Meth, and probably Nitrous to cool the IATs and long waits between runs will be a must, the car will more than likely pull tons of timing at the end of a standing mile run or back to back spirited pulls on the highway.

A 9.1" would be tops and a 8.6" would be a lot more manageable. Not to mention, the HP gains is going to be minimal...This isn't just because of the fact that boost isn't increased much, it's also because the tune will have to COMPENSATE for the heat and remove timing, resulting in a max of a 15 HP gain from a 8.6 to a 9.1, and probably even less for a 9.1 to a 9.55. Here's a thread for some info that I got from just a quick google to backup my points: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums...-55-upper.html

Way too much. 14 lbs of boost with a cam is max on the stock 1.9L Eaton.

At the 700+ RWHP number then yes there'll be a decent gain from 2" headers vs 1 7/8ths and a 4.5" intake. Will there be a significant gain for the money? No. But a gain? Yes. Also would mate up a 3" cat back if you're really going for all out, but that's another $1200+.

Like I said, since you have the HX, reservoir, and E85...Go for a 9.1", but if it were my car, for longevity of the engine/blower/bearings I'd go 8.6".

Cams is up to you I guess. Keep in mind the more aggressive the cam, the more it feels like no ones home until 5,000 RPM. Also, if you are overspinning the blower, that means that's right in the range where your IATs are going to be going crazy.

A thing a lot of people don't grasp is there's a lot more to making lots of power than stuffing a ginormous cam and dumping tons of boost and fuel into an engine. Not saying anyone was saying that here, but just throwing it out there. Careful thought process must be taken into account. You don't want to build a time bomb of a car. This is why I'd definitely recommend a 9.1" and a BTR III. And if that doesn't get you to your goals with your already existing mods, then you'll have to do Heads and more than likely a shot of BOOM juice (Nitrous).
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Old 04-04-2017, 09:18 PM   #13
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This car is A weekend car if any track time is gonna happen it's gonna be Cota and maybe a few passes at the strip. I never have been but I would like to just to be able to say ran a 10.xx. In my book I think it's a lot more fun to push corners and all(just a endurance of adrenaline).
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Old 04-04-2017, 09:25 PM   #14
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I'm hoping to get some more rpm out of the motor at the same time with this cam. Safe would be light valve terrain correct? Trying to get 7k out of it. As far as low end power I'm happy there because the only time I'm really there is in 1st and right now it's already almost unusable so usually I just start in 2nd. So power from 3-7 if that's a option would be my preference with torque maxing higher the better
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