04-29-2019, 09:16 AM | #1 |
Squeaky Loud Noisy Brakes Fixed
I finally got the brakes to stop making noise when using the brakes going around 5 mph. A ducted cooling system. I know its overkill but the noise was driving me crazy. I drive a 2010 SS and have used this great forum to read everything available to fix the problem but none of it worked.
Here's a list of the parts I put in: 1. High temp brake duct (rotor side) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all42150 2. Brake ducts https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all42116 , https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all42117 3. Brake duct intakes https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all42140 4. Four (4) metal hose clamps https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...6595/202309381 5. Four (4) 14" zip ties https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerci...0STB/203531913 6. Two (2) mending plates to bridge gap between generic brake ducts and caliper connections... ghetto, I know. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...3509/203103415 7. small machine screws to fasten intake ducts to existing plastic Tools used: 1. wrenches to get the wheel and caliper off 2. power drill to ream out holes in mending plates, and drill four (4) new holes in brake ducts (rotor side) 3. utility knife 4. pliers 5. snipper pliers 6. screwdriver 7. vise on workbench to bend metal, and secure metal while drilling new holes I was able to jack up the car, crawl under and cut the existing plastic baffles that lie behind the sides of the lower grill. I used a utility knife, and yes this was the longest and most painful part of the install. I was able to not have to remove the front bumper/body work. From the inside I cut the sides of the baffle... https://parts.campchevrolet.com/oem-...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D and left some plastic around the perimeter to screw the new intake ducts into it. Thoughts?
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2010 2SS living in Los Angeles
replaced engine @ 93,000 miles w/ crate engine, camshaft by Comp Cams installed by me, replaced valve train parts, 1.4" BMR lowering springs ZL1 factory rims misc: drilled and slotted rotors, fresh air brake cooling system, new speakers, installed reverse camera, muffler delete Last edited by wasthatacop?; 04-29-2019 at 09:18 AM. Reason: typo |
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04-29-2019, 09:10 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2014 Camaro 1SS Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: MA
Posts: 103
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I think the brake ducts should feed to the center of the rotor, that's how the air flow naturally happens. The vanes built into the rotor move air sort of like a centrifugal supercharger does - in from the center and out to the edges. The duct work can help a lot with cooling when pushing the brakes hard like at a racetrack.
My guess is removing your pads and calipers and reinstalling them caused the noise to go away.
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2014 1SS - BTR Stg3, GMPP CNC Heads, Kooks LTs & cats, Magnaflow 2.5" Street w/Res X, Z28 CAI
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04-29-2019, 09:30 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Swapped A6 Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Spring Hill, FL
Posts: 4,583
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Maybe I am reading this wrong, but I don't see how you needed brake cooling for 5 MPH braking. I agree with the previous post about it possibly quieting down due to removal/reinstall of the pads/calipers. But as long as it's quiet now, who cares?
Nevertheless, nice setup. If you ever decide to track her, you are a step ahead.
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2010 CGM Camaro 2SS LS3 Swapped A6 - GPI LS3 SS1 .647/.638, (224/237, 112 +4, 7º overlap) on CamMotion 8620 core, BTR Platinum .660" Dual Spring kit w/titanium retainers, CHE bronze trunnion upgrade, stock heads milled @ .015, Melling HV 10296 oil pump, TSP 1-7/8" long tube headers (W/Catless Off-road Pipes), Corsa Xtreme 3" Catback, GPI Ported/Rod Mod Intake, Stage 2 Ported Throttle Body, Vararam OTR CAI, Mike Norris Gen 2 catch can + GM 1LE clean side separator, 160º thermostat - Megan Racing adjustable coilovers (lowered 1.75"), MRR M017 10/11" wheels-Tuned by Ryan @ GPI
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04-30-2019, 07:40 AM | #4 | |
Quote:
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2010 2SS living in Los Angeles
replaced engine @ 93,000 miles w/ crate engine, camshaft by Comp Cams installed by me, replaced valve train parts, 1.4" BMR lowering springs ZL1 factory rims misc: drilled and slotted rotors, fresh air brake cooling system, new speakers, installed reverse camera, muffler delete |
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04-30-2019, 08:30 AM | #5 | |
Quote:
I have taken off my wheels, calipers, and rotors about 7 times to put "Brake Quiet" on the pads, resurface the rotors, clean all components, try different pad/rotor setups, and re-grease the caliper hardware. None of this would stop the noise. When I recently put on the drilled and slotted rotors I thought I'd fixed it, and even took time to brake in the new pads and rotors. No such luck. The noise continued. Chevrolet dealership told me it was normal and there was nothing they could do.
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2010 2SS living in Los Angeles
replaced engine @ 93,000 miles w/ crate engine, camshaft by Comp Cams installed by me, replaced valve train parts, 1.4" BMR lowering springs ZL1 factory rims misc: drilled and slotted rotors, fresh air brake cooling system, new speakers, installed reverse camera, muffler delete |
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04-30-2019, 09:04 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2012 ZL1 - #670 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Seminole, Fl.
Posts: 8,009
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That's because you are riding your brakes, with Brembo's you have to use a firm pedal when braking. The cooling looks cool and all, but will not help in the long run.
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04-30-2019, 09:14 AM | #7 |
Nah, I dont ride the brakes. I've been downshifting with the paddles for years now to try and negate the brake noise. Haha, I've gotten pretty good at it and can slow the car to a near stop in all situations. It's working now.
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2010 2SS living in Los Angeles
replaced engine @ 93,000 miles w/ crate engine, camshaft by Comp Cams installed by me, replaced valve train parts, 1.4" BMR lowering springs ZL1 factory rims misc: drilled and slotted rotors, fresh air brake cooling system, new speakers, installed reverse camera, muffler delete |
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04-30-2019, 10:07 AM | #8 |
Drives: ABM #93 Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Lotaburger
Posts: 2,708
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Pretty interesting setup. I’ve been able to get mine to quiet down by matting the pedal at around 60-65 and taking it to about 5 before releasing and getting back to 25-30 for a a minute or two, letting them cool a little before coming to a complete stop. (Obviously the highway isn’t the place to do this) I hit it hard enough that the abs is about ready to come on. Any time I start to get brake shake or noise this has taken care of it.
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ABM #2399 2SS/RS:SOLD
ABM #93 2SS/RS Black Rally stripes, Titanium Interior 4,000 miles: GM GFX side skirts and diffuser waiting on paint, GM dovetail, GM heritage, RPI ZL1 style splitter. ‘87 IROC-Z Iroc blue. all original unmolested with 50K miles. |
04-30-2019, 10:11 AM | #9 | |
Quote:
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2010 2SS living in Los Angeles
replaced engine @ 93,000 miles w/ crate engine, camshaft by Comp Cams installed by me, replaced valve train parts, 1.4" BMR lowering springs ZL1 factory rims misc: drilled and slotted rotors, fresh air brake cooling system, new speakers, installed reverse camera, muffler delete |
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04-30-2019, 11:51 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 14
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I do something similar to what Aqua Blue does. I'll stop from 60 down to 5-10 and repeat 4-5 times and then park the car to let the brakes cool off. Works every time.
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04-30-2019, 11:57 AM | #11 | |
Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Swapped A6 Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Spring Hill, FL
Posts: 4,583
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Quote:
Which makes sense for why it would work.
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2010 CGM Camaro 2SS LS3 Swapped A6 - GPI LS3 SS1 .647/.638, (224/237, 112 +4, 7º overlap) on CamMotion 8620 core, BTR Platinum .660" Dual Spring kit w/titanium retainers, CHE bronze trunnion upgrade, stock heads milled @ .015, Melling HV 10296 oil pump, TSP 1-7/8" long tube headers (W/Catless Off-road Pipes), Corsa Xtreme 3" Catback, GPI Ported/Rod Mod Intake, Stage 2 Ported Throttle Body, Vararam OTR CAI, Mike Norris Gen 2 catch can + GM 1LE clean side separator, 160º thermostat - Megan Racing adjustable coilovers (lowered 1.75"), MRR M017 10/11" wheels-Tuned by Ryan @ GPI
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04-30-2019, 12:00 PM | #12 |
Iatefiberglassinsulation
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The stock Brembo pads are always just squeaky, even when broken in properly, they also produce a ton of dust if you look at them the wrong way.
I use Hawk HPS which also can squeak sometimes, but if you very diligently follow the break in procedure https://www.hawkperformance.com/how-to You should be fine. That said there was a reason GM had those balancers on the pads (and stuck tape weights to the calipers) and so there is unfortunately an inherent vibration in the system that causes this squeal. It will never be perfect. I will tell you one thing though, you did a great job on those brake ducts, they will help quite a bit on track, but there is no chance they did anything for the noise.
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2010 Chevrolet Camaro SS - was daily driver, now toy
2020 Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio - Daily Driver 2017 Mercedes Benz GLE 350 - Wifes Car 2008 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD LT 6.0 - Tow Vehicle 1991 Alfa Romeo 164S - Project Car 1994 Volkswagen Golf - Race Car "Like" my race team on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/farfrumwinnin |
06-04-2019, 08:37 AM | #13 | |
Mike
Drives: 2013 Blue Ray Camaro 2SS RS M6 Join Date: May 2018
Location: Clarkston, Michigan
Posts: 22
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brake squeal
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06-04-2019, 10:34 AM | #14 | |
Drives: Miss Con Ception Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,998
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Quote:
Bleeding them twice a year when I change the tires over helps as well.
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2011 1SS/RS LS3 CGM
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