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Old 04-07-2012, 08:18 PM   #15
Moreno1
 
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Call ARP !!!! and find out what options they suggest. Sorry to hear about that.
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:32 PM   #16
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Helicoils are very easy. It is the getting it straight piece that is difficult. I have helicoiled plenty of stuff from 6mm to 1" (approx 25mm) and they are very reliable! You may have a problem finding such a kit. I buy my stuff through grainger or rex. G/L
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Old 04-07-2012, 08:32 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grocerygetter View Post
But an honest question, will a helicoil hold the kind of torque you need to put on that bolt?
if the helicoil length is longer than the engagement, it will be stronger than stock. helicoils are superior for thread holding, and life. the only reason they arent like that already is cost.
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:14 PM   #18
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Mercedes-Benz suggests the use of time sert repair kits for high torque fastners such as the crank bolt. They are a bit more expensive, but I've had a 100% success rate in repairing damaged threads with them over the years.
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:55 PM   #19
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I used a 12" piece of M16 threaded rod to reinstall the Balancer. I had the Balancer about 75% of the way on when the threaded rod started to bend. I tried to back it out and it started to cross thread badly. I worked it back and forth and finally got it out (this took 2 hours). Once I had managed to get it out I had successfully torn out ever thread in the snout. There isn't a single thread left. I've heard that helicoils are really hard to get started. I've heard it would be difficult to get a helicoil installed that far back in the crank snout. I'm still looking for input from everyone. Thanks for all the advice. The threads I stripped out begin about 3" from the front of the crank snout and continue about another inch deep into the snout. So from the front of the snout there is a 3" blind hole.
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TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete

Last edited by ztsmith86; 04-07-2012 at 11:55 PM.
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Old 04-07-2012, 11:43 PM   #20
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Helicoils are used on all head studs on top fuel motors......

The strength of them isnt the issue, the proper installation is. Good luck!
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:07 AM   #21
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Installed a Helicoil for a 3/4" bolt once. Not very easy and it was in a wide open area, a bed plate for an electric motor. As far as stacking, I'm not sure of the procedure. But a friend of mine tried it. No luck. He ended up stacking them and the threads didn't line up between each set of coils. Sorry, not much help.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:20 AM   #22
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I'm thinking about tapping the front of the snout. I'm considering using a M18x2.0 tap and threading it about 2-3" deep. Then I would buy a 2-3" M18x2.0 bolt that is grade 10.9, once the harmonic balancer is seated properly I would finish with red loctite on the M18x2.0 bolt and torquing it to a 37 ft-lb and then turning it about 180 degrees to yield the bolt. What does anyone think of this? This method would leave about 1-2" of void in the deep part of the snout where the threads I stripped out used to be. I only plan on keeping this stock crank for about another 10,000 miles before I go with a new crankshaft and forged bottom end. Any thoughts will be well appreciated. Thanks
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Inferno Metallic
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TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:17 AM   #23
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If you're gonna go that route, why not drill the damaged threat out and tap it all the way back? Then you can use a proper crank bolt from ARP in a 18mm size. I don't know if I'd trust any old 10.9 bolt a few inches long. The crank bolts are heat treated specifically for the application.
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:54 AM   #24
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Well a grade 10.9 bolt is a heat treated bolt .... it is equivalent to a grade 8 bolt. I wouldn't mind tapping for a longer bolt to go back in. The problem is that I have no idea of how far back into the snout I could tap for a new bolt? I would need some information there to determine if that was a good idea,
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TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:06 AM   #25
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Believe it or not you're not the first person to do this. I did this one time with a very high hp drag motor. Lucy for me the motor wasn't in the car yet. I called the guy that did my machine work and he had me remove the crank and take it to him so that he could put it in a jig to make sure the coil got installed completely straight. I never had a problem with it since. To make sure it gets done right this is what I would do.
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:27 AM   #26
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Are you sure the threads on the crank are messed up? If you used a regular old threaded rod it is softer than the crank. Try running a tap thru it to clean the threads on up on the crank. If that doesnt work then I would drill and tap to the next size up
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:06 AM   #27
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What everyones has to understand is that I just finished completely re-installing my motor with new heads/cam/longtube headers. Everything is reinstalled except the radiator, fans, water pump, harmonic balancer. The take everything back apart, pull the motor, and take out the crankshaft would be a last resort option. I'm 100% sure every thread is completely gone. I can take the new M16 bolt and slip it in/out of the snout and not 1 thread is left. I did use "regular" steel M16 threaded rod, so I'm surpised it ate the threads myself.
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Inferno Metallic
----------------------
TSP 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers 304 SS MagnaFlow 2.5 Street Series Catback Exhaust K&N Cold Air Intake Comp Cams Camshaft227/235 .639"/.646"114LSA+2.5 REV 2.165 Hollow Stem Stainless Steel Valves Manley1.59 Stainless Steel Exhaust Valves GM LS7 Hydraulic Lifter Kit Katech CR-5 Timing Chain Manley Hardened Pushrods Comp Cams LSX Rocker Arm Trunion Kit A.I.R. Ported Cylinder Heads Catalytic Converter Delete
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:34 AM   #28
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that m16 rod you used was too long, thus the bind. I used a m16 bolt from Ace Hdw when I put mine on...it was 6" long I'm pretty sure....I have it in my tool box, I'd have to go measure it. I would never torque it down with a starter bolt like that. We got it in then put the GM original bolt back in and torqued it, then removed it. And reinstalled the new one at torque.
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