normal coolant temp?

[CRTZL1]

I did a Google search but couldn't find much on the topic.
What is the norm for coolant temperature per the D.I.C ?
Mine is usually between 190 and 210 but I seen it as high as 220 while idling.
Is this normal for my 2013 ZL1 manual ?
Also what are the best mods to lower this a bit if this in fact is considered high? Also it would have to be something that doesn't require tuning.
Thanks..

[BPG]

I've never actually bothered looking at it. As for mods, 160 thermostat is pretty popular and won't need any tuning.

[joes407]

It will run about 194 to 198 but during the heat of the day I have seen as high as 210 sitting at redlights here in florida. My 2012 had a 160 thermostat and the car ran way cooler. My first mods on my new 2014 will be a thermostat and rx chiller

[mmarx82]

^^^ Thats the same for me, I run a little over 200 when I autocross as well in case anyone was wondering.

[CRTZL1]

Originally Posted by joes407

It will run about 194 to 198 but during the heat of the day I have seen as high as 210 sitting at redlights here in florida. My 2012 had a 160 thermostat and the car ran way cooler. My first mods on my new 2014 will be a thermostat and rx chiller

My tuner that did the work on my 1/LE said He's not a fan of the rx chiller, why I don't know.
I Also hear adding the t stats do nothing for the car but make it warm up slower. From my research so far I see an updated heat exchanger is the best to lower temperatures. But again I'm a rookie at cooling so I invite the knowledge from others.
Thanks...

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[cybercoaster]

Thats about the same what I run

[CRTZL1]

Originally Posted by cybercoaster

Thats about the same what I run

As me?

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[ChrisBlair]

Originally Posted by SSRS55

I did a Google search but couldn't find much on the topic.
What is the norm for coolant temperature per the D.I.C ?
Mine is usually between 190 and 210 but I seen it as high as 220 while idling.
Is this normal for my 2013 ZL1 manual ?
Also what are the best mods to lower this a bit if this in fact is considered high? Also it would have to be something that doesn't require tuning.
Thanks..

Hi. I don't have a ZL-1, and I never stayed at a cool motel.

But I know something about liquid cooling an IC engine. What you need to think about here is what's been done to your engine, when your fans come on, and how many psi your cooling system is kept at.

Coolant adds a little to your boil-over temp. But really, it's the over-pressure in your cooling system. A 15 psi system is the norm, and that means about 247*F boil over temp, not 212*F.

Your ZL-1 engine is probably stock, I assume: no overbore or anything like that. GM has probably been careful to leave a good chumk of "meat" between your cylinder bores. So 220*F? Not a problem. That's before your fans come on while idling, right? You see a drop afterwards?

I don't know your stock T-stat rating and as a general thing I never worry about my coolant "running at t-stat temp" like some guys do. Even in an engine I hand-built, I only see T-stat temp (190*F) around town, and that's with a mechanical fan with a viscous clutch. On the highway in that car I'm 215*F-220*F and never above even in hot humid weather, and that engine has a 0.030" overbore so I'm not surprised. 220*? No sweat, boil over in a 15 psi system is 247*. My Solstice GXP saw 230*F a few times, before the fans kicked in.

Now, if your fans aren't coming on...

But dont worry so much about lower your temps. Firstly, that's not very high. Secondly, especially on a stock car, the engineers who designed it weren't stupid. So many car guys labor to reduce their operating temp in pursuit of a "comfortable number to them". if your engine build requires it, do it. But don't do it becasue you feel vaguely concerned about operating over 200*F or over the T-stat temp or anything like that. Unless there's a reason to lower the temp and you know the reason, it's wasted effort in my opinion.

But remember: the temperature rating of a thermostat is simply the temp at which it is fully open. A 160* t-stat is just open sooner than a 190* T-stat: they are both fully open at 190*. You can put them in a pan of water on the stove and see for yourself. Also, your coolant reading is simply the coolant temp at the probe.

[joes407]

Originally Posted by SSRS55

My tuner that did the work on my 1/LE said He's not a fan of the rx chiller, why I don't know.
I Also hear adding the t stats do nothing for the car but make it warm up slower. From my research so far I see an updated heat exchanger is the best to lower temperatures. But again I'm a rookie at cooling so I invite the knowledge from others.
Thanks...

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

The chiller is hands down the best way to cool your supercharger. When installed on my 2012 zl1 it was worth 20 h.p that heatsoak would normally take. My iats stay way cooler than another zl1 in my area using meth to cool. It seems alot of people dont like the chiller because of the shop it comes from has gotten a bad name. The product is sound, I used it for 2 years problem free on my 12 and I will be having the newer updated version put on my 14 without question. My old thread for my 2012 is RX CHILLER=AWESOME. lots of good info in there

[CRTZL1]

Originally Posted by ChrisBlair

Hi. I don't have a ZL-1, and I never stayed at a cool motel.

But I know something about liquid cooling an IC engine. What you need to think about here is what's been done to your engine, when your fans come on, and how many psi your cooling system is kept at.

Coolant adds a little to your boil-over temp. But really, it's the over-pressure in your cooling system. A 15 psi system is the norm, and that means about 247*F boil over temp, not 212*F.

Your ZL-1 engine is probably stock, I assume: no overbore or anything like that. GM has probably been careful to leave a good chumk of "meat" between your cylinder bores. So 220*F? Not a problem. That's before your fans come on while idling, right? You see a drop afterwards?

I don't know your stock T-stat rating and as a general thing I never worry about my coolant "running at t-stat temp" like some guys do. Even in an engine I hand-built, I only see T-stat temp (190*F) around town, and that's with a mechanical fan with a viscous clutch. On the highway in that car I'm 215*F-220*F and never above even in hot humid weather, and that engine has a 0.030" overbore so I'm not surprised. 220*? No sweat, boil over in a 15 psi system is 247*. My Solstice GXP saw 230*F a few times, before the fans kicked in.

Now, if your fans aren't coming on...

But dont worry so much about lower your temps. Firstly, that's not very high. Secondly, especially on a stock car, the engineers who designed it weren't stupid. So many car guys labor to reduce their operating temp in pursuit of a "comfortable number to them". if your engine build requires it, do it. But don't do it becasue you feel vaguely concerned about operating over 200*F or over the T-stat temp or anything like that. Unless there's a reason to lower the temp and you know the reason, it's wasted effort in my opinion.

But remember: the temperature rating of a thermostat is simply the temp at which it is fully open. A 160* t-stat is just open sooner than a 190* T-stat: they are both fully open at 190*. You can put them in a pan of water on the stove and see for yourself. Also, your coolant reading is simply the coolant temp at the probe.

Thanks for taking the time to Wright this post, I definitely learned a couple things.
But your right I shouldn't be to concerned about it. This car is precision engineered and I'm sure GM knew what was going on with temps and all.. This is the first car I've had like this where I actually don't wanna go nuts Modding, I love it the way it is and just wanna actually drive this one. Done with all the garage queens and rough riding unreliable modded stuff. My Rotofab and catch can is just about it, besides some exterior stuff.
Thanks man...

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[CRTZL1]

Originally Posted by joes407

The chiller is hands down the best way to cool your supercharger. When installed on my 2012 zl1 it was worth 20 h.p that heatsoak would normally take. My iats stay way cooler than another zl1 in my area using meth to cool. It seems alot of people dont like the chiller because of the shop it comes from has gotten a bad name. The product is sound, I used it for 2 years problem free on my 12 and I will be having the newer updated version put on my 14 without question. My old thread for my 2012 is RX CHILLER=AWESOME. lots of good info in there

Interesting... may still be something down the road I may have to get. Have to explore more though on the matter. Definitely don't wanna go down the modded road again though.
Does the RX require a tune modification? Also I would be interested in getting that link to your thread if you can supply it...


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[jessrayo]

I have never boiled engine coolant out of my car and I been out on the road racing course at 106 degrees ambient with the coolant over 220. If it can't keep up it will first shut down the a/c system and then it will put you in reduced power mode. Mind you when I got to this point I already had oil temps around 320 and had boiled off most of my supercharger coolant. If you go to reduced power mode from water temp you just limp the car into the pits and turn the key off for 5 minutes and it will run normal after the computer resets in 5 minutes. It will stay about 200 to 210 for a long time before it starts to light up the warnings. Don't worry about it, the car has a very good engine water cooling system.

[Baer383]

Mine is 180 deg thermostat and runs normally @ 192 but it did get up to 198 today when I was doing 150 MPH.lol

[DarthZL1]

Originally Posted by ChrisBlair

Hi. I don't have a ZL-1, and I never stayed at a cool motel.

But I know something about liquid cooling an IC engine. What you need to think about here is what's been done to your engine, when your fans come on, and how many psi your cooling system is kept at.

Coolant adds a little to your boil-over temp. But really, it's the over-pressure in your cooling system. A 15 psi system is the norm, and that means about 247*F boil over temp, not 212*F.

Your ZL-1 engine is probably stock, I assume: no overbore or anything like that. GM has probably been careful to leave a good chumk of "meat" between your cylinder bores. So 220*F? Not a problem. That's before your fans come on while idling, right? You see a drop afterwards?

I don't know your stock T-stat rating and as a general thing I never worry about my coolant "running at t-stat temp" like some guys do. Even in an engine I hand-built, I only see T-stat temp (190*F) around town, and that's with a mechanical fan with a viscous clutch. On the highway in that car I'm 215*F-220*F and never above even in hot humid weather, and that engine has a 0.030" overbore so I'm not surprised. 220*? No sweat, boil over in a 15 psi system is 247*. My Solstice GXP saw 230*F a few times, before the fans kicked in.

Now, if your fans aren't coming on...

But dont worry so much about lower your temps. Firstly, that's not very high. Secondly, especially on a stock car, the engineers who designed it weren't stupid. So many car guys labor to reduce their operating temp in pursuit of a "comfortable number to them". if your engine build requires it, do it. But don't do it becasue you feel vaguely concerned about operating over 200*F or over the T-stat temp or anything like that. Unless there's a reason to lower the temp and you know the reason, it's wasted effort in my opinion.

But remember: the temperature rating of a thermostat is simply the temp at which it is fully open. A 160* t-stat is just open sooner than a 190* T-stat: they are both fully open at 190*. You can put them in a pan of water on the stove and see for yourself. Also, your coolant reading is simply the coolant temp at the probe.

This man speaks gospel. Listen to him.
Unless you change when the fans come on (tune) the lower temp TSTAT will do little more than make it enter closed loop slower (maybe).