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Old 06-09-2018, 08:34 PM   #15
RJT Impala
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
Hydraulically actuated, no clutch fork.
Must admit. I'm confused! I thought the hydraulic slave cylinder replaced the mechanical fulcrums. I didn't think they replaced the clutch fork that presses the throw-out bearing against the clutch fingers in order to over-center and disengage the clutch. At least that's the way it worked on my Dad's '62 GMC when I was learning the differences. Please enlighten me how the new clutches work.
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Old 06-10-2018, 04:39 PM   #16
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I had a truck with a manual trans just cruising down the road and it popped out of gear and did the same thing. Banged really loud. Scared the hell out of my. After that it was a long drive home. I only had 2nd and 4th and no reverse.
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Old 06-29-2018, 09:38 AM   #17
dyonz
 
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im pretty sure that it literally just popped out of first, do you guys have any idea why when shifting it feels notchy? almost like its hitting some kind of metal and then goes into gear
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Old 06-29-2018, 10:06 AM   #18
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im pretty sure that it literally just popped out of first, do you guys have any idea why when shifting it feels notchy? almost like its hitting some kind of metal and then goes into gear
My first gear feels notchy at times, but I wouldn't say it feels like it's hitting something. 1st in the V6 M6 trannys is a really low gear though.
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Old 06-30-2018, 09:51 AM   #19
christianchevell
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Just a note as to the manual transmissions, the weak point being the slaves release bearing support///the "throwout bearing" in other words; its support it rides on is plastic and can melt especially if used in more extreme conditions riding the clutch in road racing in and out of gear over and over making heat. Not knowing where the noise came from...…I would worry about things sticking..... I recommend this to everyone and it was the standard mod recommended on here for anyone doing a clutch. I use a stock clutch slave because my Monster lt1s allows me too...but would not use it without the support being their Monster Billet one after repeatedly seeing some pics on here from those that have melted one years ago....pretty funky … And Monster makes awesome cost worthy clutches but just as most aftermarket lots require aftermarket slaves compared to stock to be replaced to use their clutch...which of course would require a bearing support.... here so you can check it out just a couple reviews on it though even though its been around and used a lot by those in the know...…..
http://monsterclutches.com/gen-5-cam...earing-support

And yes BTW the stock shifters are a POS ; yes you should buy a MGW. never a missed shift always positive locking and attractive short throw but not cheap either. Good Luck.

And yes of course it could be maintenance related, brakes sticking , clutch etc etc I long ago replaced the stock clutch to brake shared reservoir to a separate bought from gen5diy from a Holden GT and clean it out much easier and don't dirty up the brake fluid from the heat and then can run with changes of the clutch fluid with a siphon bulb and remote bleeder line every few thousand when its looking dirty. Its worth doing to protect the brake fluid and its a PITA to remove the line into the thing with out using some needle noses to get the hoses on and off and on I used a little lube and even hose clamped around the thick rubber nipple cap I put on the abandoned line out the master cylinder. Just a couple thoughts from a old motorhead... and two popular mods.


In a unrelated mod I just have been trying for oh like 6 months....the Zero gauge wire bypass from splicing in a section around the terminal positive post under the hood where connections are made and the wire gauge changes out.....Does appear to be helping enough to have greatly ;if not eliminated at least greatly reduced my hot start problems due to headers and I do have new starter/battery. even a heat sock around the starter.. Slight removal of the remote terminals resistance with its just appearing to make it drag just a little less to avoid throwing the CEL/stupiditrac trifecta and requiring restart later after cooling to clear out going basically into limp mode until restarted with enough speed without starter drag..... Good luck to you all, goin on a road trip....LOL nice out today.

My Camaro's starter heat stroke induced choke has only hit me once in six months; rather than what happened sometimes more than once in a month....with my Frequently stop and go local driving making many stops and restarting with engine heat up in the temps toward 200 in the oil +. I live by along strip of busy businesses along I-5 and dang its handy for the stop and go pick up anything.....busiest road in Oregon I can hear it roar all day and night a mile away.....And sometimes that roar is me. Making fart trumpets everywhere a laughing stock..... and my Deceleration Popping making the ricers smile in the ditches.....picking up those doors.
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Old 07-17-2022, 09:34 PM   #20
phlamethrowre
 
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Same

This exact same thing happened to me in my 2022 2.0t last week. I was at a red-light and when I eased off the clutch it made a VERY loud noise and didn't move. I guess it wasn't all the way I gear. Could this damage the trans or anything else?
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Old 07-18-2022, 10:10 AM   #21
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I would doubt it...if you dont fully engage it into gear, they SLAM out of gear..and are Loud when they do that...shouldnt have damaged anything. Just make sure youre fully in gear..ive done this exact thing once or twice..
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Old 07-18-2022, 12:52 PM   #22
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I’ve had multiple times where I don’t fully engage the gear and it’ll smack back into neutral. It doesn’t sounds like a boom or something braking per say. More like something forcing something out of place. This was my first stick car so I blamed it on that and after a while, it stopped happening ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Old 07-19-2022, 09:37 AM   #23
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Thanks for the responses. It’s only happened once and the car drives fine so I guess all is well. I’ve owned about 10 manuals over the years and have never had it happen before.
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