DRL (Now fog lights too) always on

[Michael_Js]

Originally Posted by thebrainhart

Cool, glad its fixed. Thats weird it had anything to do with the headlights/high beams. That bumper wiring harness has 6 wires, left front side marker light, right front side marker light, left DRL, right DRL, and 2 grounds...

Probably has something to do with the DRL circuit backfeeding into the power module, and messing with things there. Anybody know what GM calls that thing? All I know is that Chrysler calls theirs a TIPM, Totally Integrated Power Module...

Oh, I thought it was the headlight power that we were tapping into, not the side marker lights. That makes it weirder that it affected the high beams then. Anyway, I too am glad it's working!

Thanks!
Michael J.

[rico-2SS]

Originally Posted by Michael_Js

Ok, found the issue Due to my expert soldering skills (heavy sarcasm) when unwrapping one of the diodes, I noticed it was cracked! Fixed it and now all works! Now I can't wait to replace those DRL bulbs with the new LEDS from AAC! Hopefully they ship soon!

Thanks for the help!
Michael J.

Glad you got it fixed
I had a diode wrong even after paying attention I still screwed it up the first time. I thought I blew one of my new LED fogs...but all was good
It was a great instructional thread

[chapinville]

Brainhart, this is so awsome and worked perfectly. Thanks for taking the time to post. I followed some advice from another thread and put the car on the small ramps that you would use to change oil on. Duct taped the fender well out of the way and had enough room to get both hands at the connector. Soldered and taped, exactly as you did. Took about an hour.

[khislop007]

That was me! It's so much easier to do it this way! I should have my P13W on friday!

Looks good by the way!

Originally Posted by chapinville

Brainhart, this is so awsome and worked perfectly. Thanks for taking the time to post. I followed some advice from another thread and put the car on the small ramps that you would use to change oil on. Duct taped the fender well out of the way and had enough room to get both hands at the connector. Soldered and taped, exactly as you did. Took about an hour.

[thebrainhart]

Glad to see its easy without removing the bumper. I wasnt sure there would be enough comfortable room to solder, going in that way.

I'm going to change the instructions mentioning it.

[thebrainhart]

Originally Posted by brjray

Could I use the connector below to tap into the headlight wiring without stripping it? It is listed as moisture resistant and I could just solder the diode part and not to the orig wires for a cleaner install. The tool to use these is $30 though Any similar solutions that dont require a special tool that anyone knows of?




Scotchlok UB2A Connectors Splicing

I'd be weary of using those, It would be difficult to solder the diode to them, plus even though they say moisture resistant, they often lead to corrosion, and wire damage.

[khislop007]

Originally Posted by thebrainhart

I'd be weary of using those, It would be difficult to solder the diode to them, plus even though they say moisture resistant, they often lead to corrosion, and wire damage.

Solder it and forget it!

[1 RD JEWL]

Is there a special tool that I can purchase to strip the wires perfectly as they seem to be in all the pictures? I am a medical guy and a scalpel may not be the right tool for the job.

I am going the diode route. Orders the non-RS switch all ready, and may have one of my electrical engineer friends who is a scientist look at it. He has a bigger brain than I so if we figure it out... how too will be posted here. I have the part on order.

[thebrainhart]

Originally Posted by 1 RD JEWL

Is there a special tool that I can purchase to strip the wires perfectly as they seem to be in all the pictures? I am a medical guy and a scalpel may not be the right tool for the job.

You can get wire strippers at any autoparts store. Usually the cheap ones work fine, and come in many different flavors, here are some examples of what to look for:
http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...ed=0CDEQrQQwAA

And in all reality your scalpel or a razor blade would work just great! Cut the first incisions (like in the third picture) making sure you dont cut the actual wire, then more slits to where you'll strip to, then shave off a strip from one slit to the other, and tear off the coating. Thats how I'll often strip wires.

Originally Posted by 1 RD JEWL

I am going the diode route. Orders the non-RS switch all ready, and may have one of my electrical engineer friends who is a scientist look at it. He has a bigger brain than I so if we figure it out... how too will be posted here. I have the part on order.

HzMajesty already tried that, back on page 2:

Originally Posted by HzMajesty

Ok.. I got the non RS version... has the exact same connecting pins...

Swapped it out with my light switch... auto on auto off works... halos work... xenons work...

fog lights... don't work!! sorry guys... looks like the direct swap is a no go... :(

will check in the morning if the DRL's come on... then try pushing the button just to see what happens...

I think the problem lies in the programming in the fuse block module thing. Its programmed for RS, and therefore does not have the option (from the factory) to turn on the fog lights at night.
However, if your friend can find a way to do it, that would be awesome!

[1 RD JEWL]

Originally Posted by thebrainhart

You can get wire strippers at any autoparts store. Usually the cheap ones work fine, and come in many different flavors, here are some examples of what to look for:
http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...ed=0CDEQrQQwAA

And in all reality your scalpel or a razor blade would work just great! Cut the first incisions (like in the third picture) making sure you dont cut the actual wire, then more slits to where you'll strip to, then shave off a strip from one slit to the other, and tear off the coating. Thats how I'll often strip wires.




HzMajesty already tried that, back on page 2:


I think the problem lies in the programming in the fuse block module thing. Its programmed for RS, and therefore does not have the option (from the factory) to turn on the fog lights at night.
However, if your friend can find a way to do it, that would be awesome!

Thanks for the tip on the wire strippers. I have a few of the models in the link, but really don't want to have an accident. I seem to be more worried about cutting a wire here than an artery during a surgery.

I saw the thread about the non-RS switch but I was figuring I would have him look into the fuse block and replacing it with something.

We will see.... doesn't hurt to try.

[IROCanSS]

Originally Posted by 1 RD JEWL

Thanks for the tip on the wire strippers. I have a few of the models in the link, but really don't want to have an accident. I seem to be more worried about cutting a wire here than an artery during a surgery.

I saw the thread about the non-RS switch but I was figuring I would have him look into the fuse block and replacing it with something.

We will see.... doesn't hurt to try.

My guess is you will not beable to use the factory plug as a plug and play. you will have to run new wires and tap the factory harness. Not a big deal, you just have to figure out which ports are for the button. Basically you will wire it up exactly like the thread discusses EXCEPT you will have to break the hot wire and run it to the switch and back so the power is switched on and off. Now that is where you would have to tap the new wires into the harness.

it is the same as having a second switch except you are using the factory switch.

I am going to look at a car today that had the ABL mod and the DRL fog mod done professionally using the non-RS switch. I will let you guys know...

[1 RD JEWL]

Originally Posted by jrhaus76

My guess is you will not beable to use the factory plug as a plug and play. you will have to run new wires and tap the factory harness. Not a big deal, you just have to figure out which ports are for the button. Basically you will wire it up exactly like the thread discusses EXCEPT you will have to break the hot wire and run it to the switch and back so the power is switched on and off. Now that is where you would have to tap the new wires into the harness.

it is the same as having a second switch except you are using the factory switch.

I am going to look at a car today that had the ABL mod and the DRL fog mod done professionally using the non-RS switch. I will let you guys know...

J,

Let me know if it was success full and if you can DI the wright wiring harness.

I will have my friend help out if we need him too. Finding the right wiring group will most likely be that hards.

This guy is a genius, thus why he is in research as a scientist for the Air Force.

[IROCanSS]

Originally Posted by 1 RD JEWL

J,

Let me know if it was success full and if you can DI the wright wiring harness.

I will have my friend help out if we need him too. Finding the right wiring group will most likely be that hards.

This guy is a genius, thus why he is in research as a scientist for the Air Force.

The non RS switch is the exact same plug only with no center button. I figured it would have extra prongs... it does not. hmmmm. I guess my idea is not going to work after all. You may need to have your electrical genius buddy look into it. I am also staying after the shop to see how they do it.

[IROCanSS]

OK.. the non-RS switch does NOT work easily. The shop got it working but had to open the switch and solder some things and open the ECU board and solder some things... NOT DOING THAT! Here is what I did:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64489