Issue SOLVED strong MAF.

[daveagogo1]

Lot's of threads have been made about MAF issues. I recently made a thread myself asking questions as to why my car has been so damn doggy and lagged lately. The general consensus was it's simply the HEAT here in FLA.

Being as i have lived here 10yrs and owned many sport / muscle cars here i wasn't buying it all. Maybe some loss of power yes but, not flat out lagged and dogging it like some Corolla.

My car is bone stock other than 2 simple performance mods. Right after i bought the car i installed a CAI Inc. Made a nice difference in sound and throttle response. Later i wanted even better response so i bolted up a VMAX TB. It instantly made the car seem much quicker off the line or from a roll when i punched it.

About 5 weeks after i installed the TB. The temps went up and slowly my torque, throttle response and overall power was being sapped big time.

I did the fuse pull several times. Removed the CAI and TB cleaned and replaced with no change. I even swapped back to my stock TB to see if that was the issue and no change. Finally i read on here about this strong MAF issue. I pulled mine out on Sunday and low and behold mine was a single letter Q. 2011 1SS Built DEC 2 , 2010.

I emailed Chase and asked if he had a strong MAF i could buy and try to see if that resolved the issue. The new MAF arrived today and was in my mailbox when i got home at 5:30pm. I quickly removed my old MAF and lined it up with the new one and took photos of them together. Contrary to what i have read in other threads you cannot tell a difference between mine and the new one. Font is identical, arrow and everything. Chase sent me a K16 MAF.

I installed on a hot car i just got home from driving 20 miles in 90+ degree heat. Had to use gloves so i wouldn't get burned to a crisp from the hoses and tubes as i have to remove them to get my MAF off due to my radiator shroud.

I started up the car and took of down the road. I floored it from a stop, smoked them and was gone like a rocket. Punched it from a 30MPH roll and was instant response and gone again. Did it in both D and S mode.

Repeated this several times and all i can say is WOW. 95% of my power is instantly back with virtually zero lag. I will buy a little performance hit from the HEAT but, this simply proves to me that it isn't all the heat.

The consensus now is the old MAF was fine with only the CAI. After adding the TB the old MAF couldn't handle both mods and was the problem.

Here are the photos of my old "weak" sensor and the new "strong" sensor side by side.

Big thanks to Chase and APEX for once again delivering super fast exactly what i needed. Primo vendor.

[USNSCPO]

Nice.

I can't read it... what's the ID number on the original?

[csjcsj]

The original one looks like it has a Q on it!!!! Mine has an M!!!!

[Camarowguy]

Ok, so now I'm confused. What should I look for? I'll run outside in a lil while and take mine out and snap some pics.

[fldrummer]

Mine was a "T." I can't say if I noticed a difference when I changed mine though.

[daveagogo1]

Originally Posted by USNSCPO

Nice.

I can't read it... what's the ID number on the original?

All numbers and letters on both MAF sensors are identical. As is the font , font size and arrows. The only difference is mine was a "Q" And the new one is a "K16"

The numbers are a little dark on the upper MAF in the fourth picture but, if you look close you can see them and they are the same as the new one.

[daveagogo1]

Originally Posted by Camarowguy

Ok, so now I'm confused. What should I look for? I'll run outside in a lil while and take mine out and snap some pics.

See my first photo. the bottom MAF the new one has a K16 in the little indented window. The old MAF i had only had a Q in it.

You want any combination of a letter and two numbers. A single letter is apparently a weak sensor. I validated this issue today as described above and my car now runs better than new again with loads better throttle response.

[Apex Motorsports]

Dave, thanks for your order and the shout out. I am glad your issue was straightened out.

The only way to visually tell the difference is by checking the indent windows like in the picture below. The unit on top is the original MAF and only has a Q. A single letter only indicates a "weak" sensor. The unit in the bottom of the photo is the one we sent him and it is labeled K16. Any letter followed by a number indicates a "strong" MAF.

[walt353]

Theres a tread on this that covers it all. I have a weak MAF and have been thinking it was ok because I didnt have a lot of mods, intake and Vmax,. Im thinking I might have to look into this again. Theres a guy I think at GM parts , Cris , who will sell you a good MAF. Im just remembering this. Ill have to check the thread.

[gatorlover]

sorry in advance guys but, help me out here. I have a cai, headers and full aftermarket catback with a jannetty custom tune. If I find that I have the "weak" maf, would I need to be concerned with having my tune adjusted? If it makes such a difference, what is going on here? Is it timing that changes that makes the car run different?

[camaro2ssblack]

Just changed mine as well...had the same original one as the OP "Q" and replaced it with a strong one labeled "K16" also. I also installed a CAI today and I can tell a BIG difference. I obviously cant say how much the MAF is doing but the combination of them both is a very noticable difference in throttle response and sound!

[Camarowguy]

Ok, so is the gm part number different?

[Godon Hutchinson]

ApexChase: can you tell me or PM the price on a strong MAF. Thanks

[Camarowguy]

Yea me too