The birth of Orange Krate...

[angie7]

Well Jim, I loved reading your story. I didn't go thru all the pages but I did watch your baby boy be born!!! Congrats!!! I also finally learned how Orange Krate got his name and that you have a beautiful wife!!! Very lucky you are and your baby boy is stunning!!!! The trunk panels a nice touch keep the good work

[Orange Krate]

Originally Posted by angie7

Well Jim, I loved reading your story. I didn't go thru all the pages but I did watch your baby boy be born!!! Congrats!!! I also finally learned how Orange Krate got his name and that you have a beautiful wife!!! Very lucky you are and your baby boy is stunning!!!! The trunk panels a nice touch keep the good work

Thank you so much Angie! Your "POWDER" is so awesome and I love what you have done to her. It is a favorite of mine. But then you are also the real deal and a favorite Camaro owner! Thanks for stopping in! Orange Krate appreciates it too!

[Orange Krate]

This is a DIY for my new custom "ORANGE KRATE" L.E.D. Trunk Lid Panel that was designed and built by Scott at: http://www.jarheadbobandmax.com. You can also find them on FACEBOOK!

Disclaimer: I am a novice mechanic who enjoys working on my car when it is within my skill range. Know your limits!

SAFETY FIRST!
This install requires some basic automotive electrical wiring. If you have not done wiring before or have no knowledge of how DC circuits work then this project may not be for you. It is recommended that you disconnect or isolate the battery while you work on the electrical wiring in order to avoid a fire. It is also recommended that you install a proper inline fuse (photo below) close to the battery power source so that you do not burn a long run of wire should there be a short.

When drilling the hole for the button/switch wear safety glasses in order to protect eyes from metal debris.

-----------------------------------

THE PACKAGE/CONTENTS:
I received the package from Jarheadbobandmax.com and eagerly opened it up. Contents included the sign, a plastic packet with "Christmas Tree" style fasteners, a LED switch, and simple instructions. Included are business cards and a small 8.5x11 card stock sign that may be laminated (I am putting it in my scrapbook!)

**There is a small removable jarheadbobandmax.com badge on the sign which I opt to leave on for promoting our Veteran sign maker!

PLANNING & PREPARATION:

• Identify all the parts/pieces.
• Identify the tools and any additional supplies needed.
• Identify a good spot to install the button/switch for the sign.
• Identify the routing for the wiring and where you will tap into power and ground.
• Identify the Christmas Tree fasteners that will be removed from existing trunk lid cover. (Sign is an overlay on existing cover)

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES (Photos below)

• Small and medium slotted screwdrivers
• A trim fastener removal tool
• Small electrical wire stripper and crimper
• Small electronic pliers (to hold Christmas Tree fasteners)
• Caliper to measure switch
• Fine rat tail file
• 4 amp fuse and inline fuse holder
• 3 rolls of 18 gauge wire (I used solid)
• 3/4 inch metal hole cutter (Bought at "Do it Center")
• Round grinding ball to smooth hole to final dimension
• Wire ties various sizes (black)
• Shrink tubing
• Packet of quick-crimp disconnects
• Cigarette lighter for shrink tubing (Heat gun if you have it!)

INSTALLATION

PREPARING SIGN
Install the Christmas Tree fasteners on the sign. A specific photo instruction sheet comes with the sign. There are 4 Christmas Tree fasteners to install and 4 to remove in the trunk. To install you will need pliers to press the large flat rounded ends so they can fit in the sign hole. Once it is inserted into the hole GENTLY push the base of the fastener with a small screwdriver until the whole faster base goes into the hole and expands out. It should stay in place and be tight but you can rotate it if needed. DON'T SMASH THE RIDGES on the fastener or it won't stay retained in the trunk holes and the sign will wobble or come loose. BE GENTLE! As the instructions state... TWIST PIN TO BE SURE OF PROPER PLACEMENT. I have included photos of how mine looked as I installed the fasteners.

EXISTING TRUNK LID
Remove the four fasteners indicated in the photo. Save them for later use if emergency arises.

SIGN PLACEMENT
Install the new sign into place over the existing trunk lid by pushing the four fasteners into the empty holes. This can be tricky because the sign is precise! You may require a second set of hands to help out. Go slow and be methodical as you can crush those fasteners if they are in a bind.

TRUNK AREA
Remove the trunk mat and then remove the trunk well battery cover, the rear plastic panel must also be removed to expose the area the wires will be hidden in. The passenger side rear wheel well covering must also be unbuttoned and pushed forward GENTLY toward the back seat so you can gain access to the wiring route.

SWITCH
I knew it would be almost impossible to climb into the trunk and see the wiring so I prepared the switch with a pre-installed wire pigtail that would be pulled through the body panel below the window sheet metal channel and then hidden as the wiring was retracted to reach the sign connections. There is a photo of the wiring diagram and my notes on it. Be sure to check that your electrical connections all work before you push the button in! It is a bear to get out once in place. I used shrink wrap over the connectors to protect them and add a bit more strength so they don't pull off the switch poles.

You can see the temporary wiring for my test and also see the inline 4 amp fuse connector at the battery end in the photo below.

I identified the location of where I wanted the LED switch but didn't know how hard it would be to drill the hole. The metal hole cutter I bought worked great. Just be slow, gentle and real careful so you don't push up through the glass panel! That would be incredibly ugly (and costly).

SAFETY: Disconnect the battery and also removed the 4 amp fuse from the inline fuse holder.

Lay out the new wire along existing wiring routes so that the new wires can be wire tied neatly.

Pull the wires across the bottom of the trunk, up towards the tail light wiring loom and then up and through the existing top metal channel area in the approximation to passenger side rear speaker deck. Leave enough wire so that a small section could be wound up and hidden so that in case I had to pull the switch out I would have extra wire to work with.

I already had an existing ground connection for my LED tail lights so the ground source was close by. You may have to drill a small hole and use a self-tapping sheet metal screw for ground or run an extra wire back to the battery (-) terminal. A ground is a ground as long as it is clean!

Once the test wiring was completed and everything worked pull the wires into place. Solder the connections between the switch pigtail and the wiring loom and shrink tube them (Don't forget to put the shrink tube on before you solder and close the wire ends).

Next connect the battery and insert 4 amp fuse in fuse connector. Turn on switch and there should be a pretty LED sign and a red light on the LED Switch.

If everything looks good, then wire tie all the wires neatly and button up the trunk area of the car in reverse order of how you took everything out. Clean up your mess, put tools away and go show that beauty off!

Special thanks again to Scott Miller at http://www.jarheadbobandmax.com.

[jarheadbobandmax]

Very nice..
Looks Great

[Orange Krate]

Thanks Scott for EVERYTHING! Including your service to our country.

[Lycanine]

Looks awesome and great write-up as usual!

[Orange Krate]

Originally Posted by Lycanine

Looks awesome and great write-up as usual!

THANK YOU VERY MUCH! Our cars are aging gracefully.

[Orange Krate]

Last Saturday I drove Orange Krate to meet another Gen 5 Camaro owner where we did a photo shoot at Vasquez Rocks County Park up near Aqua Dulce in Los Angeles County. You may recognize some of the landscape as this place has been used in many movies and TV shows since the beginning of photography! Most recent notable movie was "The Flintstones". If you Wiki Vasquez Rocks you can find the history behind this badlands area. In the meantime, enjoy the scenery!


PHOTOS PROPERTY OF PIXEL PERFECT PHOTOGRAPHY (JE/Orange Krate)



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vasquez_Rocks
.

[Orange Krate]

DIY - *Battery Tender install on Orange Krate

This is a simple DIY for the installation of a battery tender (surface charger) for my 2011 Camaro SS/RS.

I discovered that I was experiencing a drop in battery charge after 2 weeks of the car sitting. I have a 400 watt amp and this along with other micro amp draw will discharge the battery to a point the car will have a hard or no start situation.

The install of this “DELTRAN” (photo 1) brand battery tender is simple, easy to use and effectively eliminates dead or low charge conditions. It incorporates an inline “safety” fuse so that any surge will protect the unit, car battery and electrical system (photo 2). I bought this unit at Walmart in the automotive section. They can be bought online as well.

The battery tender is automatic. Once it reaches peak/correct charge it shuts off and monitors the charge for voltage/amperage drop and then starts the recharge all over. If you live in cold weather or store your car for winter this is an ideal piece of equipment and a cheap insurance policy against dead batteries.

Of course batteries do have a life expectancy and generally are replaced at 3-5 year cycles depending on quality. Always replace the battery with what is recommended by the manufacturer or above specifications to insure good clean starts.

1. FIRST DISCONNECT THE BATTERY (-) GROUND CABLE IN THE TRUNK! This is located under the spare tire. This is an important safety item because you will be wrenching on a hot battery post under the hood if it is not disconnected!!!

2. Open the hood and locate the red plastic charging post cover on the driver’s side near the shock tower/left fender area. (photo 3)

3. Carefully open the plastic cover it is marked with a PLUS + to indicate positive battery post. The post has a built in 13mm head. (photo 4) These plastic covers become brittle with time and heat so be careful not to snap it off. You can remove the whole thing by lightly pulling the red plastic away from the black slotted tabs. There are three tabs. (photo 5)

4. Carefully support the housing and use a wrench or socket to loosen and remove the charging post. It is a unique piece and is really a threaded stud. Do not cross thread this on re-install as it holds the battery cables in place and a loose fit could cause a spark or worse (photo 6).

5. Connect the (+) positive charging cable from the extension plug wire to the + positive post as indicated (photo 7).

6. Connect the (–) negative side of the charging cable to a ground source. If you have a stock air box you can do one of two things: Identify a grounding location on the car that is close to the charging post, or use the mounting stud for the air cleaner box which is what I did because I have a Cold Air Intake which no longer requires use of that mounting stud. (photo 8)

7. Route the charging cable so that it is neat and not near exhaust manifold/headers. I used wire ties and used existing holes to secure. I also ran the cable through the plastic charging post cover (photo 9). This can be hidden for car shows with very little effort.

8. Lay a microfiber towel across the fender and drape the charging cord over to the charging pigtail you just finished installing (photo 10). Having this towel also reminds you that you are connected before you start your car and pull out of the garage. That is a real BOZO no-no!! I have seen ugly things occur when vehicles pull away with a shoreline connected.

9. Once the charging cable is in place, reconnect the negative cable to the battery in the trunk. Plug in the charger and there should be a steady burning red LED on this model to indicate charge taking place. When a full charge occurs the LED turns solid green. A flashing red LED indicates power to the charger but no connection at battery. A green flashing LED indicates the charge is nearing completion for that cycle. (photo 11)

After 24 hours the light came on green! I guess the battery really did need a deep charge. The charger is working like a champ!

SAFE MOTORING AND CHEERS TO HOT BATTERIES!!

*Disclaimer: I am an amateur mechanic. This DIY is intended to help others who may have even less experience than I do. With all projects on a vehicle there are inherent risks. Consult your vehicle maintenance guide, a qualified mechanic or your dealer if you have specific questions regarding your factory equipment and car. When working with any electrical components it is recommended the battery be disconnected before beginning work so that no electrical shorts or fire occur during the installation or modification. Always check with your dealer first if you have concerns about warranty void due to a vehicle modification.

[Orange Krate]

It has been awhile since I posted some Orange Krate photos up. These are random recent photos.

[Midnight Rat]

She's still looking good

[Orange Krate]

Here was a quick, easy and inexpensive little mod that made a difference to the drab embossing on the engine cover. This item was from Emblem Pros. Orange Krate approves! I now have an idea for yet another inexpensive mod on the engine cover. That will come soon.

Before and After photos.

[Behic2320]

Its always a pleasure going through your build, I love the new trunk sign thats awesome

[Orange Krate]

Originally Posted by Behic2320

Its always a pleasure going through your build, I love the new trunk sign thats awesome

Thank you so much! It is built by a Vet! The old fashioned American way.... with skill. Orange Krate has personality with it!