What to do next - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Hotstreak2 · 11-11-2017, 11:38 AM

Hey everyone I don’t post much in here really just like to learn by reading however I’m at a crossroads and not sure which way to turn.
My current car is a m6 ss with cai, long tube headers with off-road extensions, tsp stage3 n/a cam 231/246 on a 111 lsa. My question is I’m debating putting it on the bottle with nitrous outlet plate kit and supporting mods or should I do rear subframe and cradle bushings, axles and wheels and tires? The car doesn’t see see the track and won’t until I feel comfortable where it won’t wheel hop. But being that it’s really just a street car putting it on the bottle, would I start to break things? Right now the car doesn’t really hook with the pirrelis so I would assume that it wouldnt really hook hard enough to break anything with it on the bottle. Any input is appreciated

MessySS · 11-11-2017, 08:01 PM

I’m in the same boat...I have a cai, long tubes, stage 3 btr 229/244 113 cam, ls7 lifters, double valve springs, and a custom tune. I have the l99 with dod/afm delete and I think the next step is a stall. The builder couldn’t stress enough as to how much better the car would perform but after the stall I’m leaning towards gears before nitrous.

Blakester · 11-11-2017, 09:55 PM

Personally, i am going to wait to do any mods untill i have axles, driveshaft, and 17 or 18 inch drag radials. Its hard because i have headers, trailing arms, toe rods, solid subframe bushings, and a 3.91 diff waiting to be installed already. But i want too be able to put the power down some what reliably right off the bat.

camarosspower · 11-12-2017, 12:18 AM

Do trailing arms at least and cradle bushings. Axles will be on borrowed time on sticky tires. Spinning ain't winning

christianchevell · 11-12-2017, 08:24 AM

Trailing arms and toes as a pair........Bottles are just for play especially for your case with stock hypereutectic pistons and if not set up right just like FI can melt you down....or blow you up..LOL so limiting it to a lower 150 -200 down shot is what some do not a real 2 stage etc, and remember its got to be able to increase the fuel and have a better pump etc......DO some BMR and loose the wheel hop, they also make nice things like delrin bushing upper a arm, sways, etc.... a nice LPW cover can hold the rear diff together also. Many say oh do the drop the whole friggin rear suspension bushings like your made of money its involved ...drop the exhaust etc etc etc .... Just get some trailing arms and toes and you will notice a big difference. Most launch BTW in the 3500 rpm range not to spin too much not the stupid high launch control rpm which sucks, and Hooking...not going to happen really with highway tires and more likely to screw the pooch with super sticky tires on hot pavement.....I baby my car avoiding damaging the rear axles and well have more torque now than I use , staying out of it is a art.

Now if Cletus owned my car he would be on his 20th set of stock axles, maybe a rear end also or two... wheel spin actually helps avoid damaging the axles with out wheel hop...... And true drag radials are screwed to the rim to keep the tire from turning in the rim while its spinning as it wrinkles also.... I have so much torque I just had to change out the rear tires, Toyo Proxes 4 + same kind of AAA traction etc like a Pirelli only 500 wear rating versus 220 and I got maybe 15k on the tires never trying to burn out,( I have trouble getting off the stop light even not with at least some slip of the rear even going low as I have a 950 idle 1500 take off to avoid cam surge kind of build); and our tires in the rear wear the inside due to squat the way a sports car should like any upper end BMW...etc The contact patch not so big......torque management smacked like a bitch in a tune nannies on I can get fishy in about any gear hitting the other gear too hard with too much revs per shift, but I am stroked , it was not so bad just cammed......

frankwjr · 11-12-2017, 10:12 AM

ultimate goals? sorry your thread is where I vent a bit but seriously peeps....I see so many people puttin money in there ride because??? cams, heads, N20 and F/I and then??? pissed about poor performance, cars always havin one prob or another...and you have NEVER BEEN TO THE TRACK!!! afraid to break something because you read somewhere it's a prob..does anybody ever do there own research any more??? so many stupid(sorry) questions on this forum and when we try to help....zero feed back or peeps get offended when told what the prob is....

If you car is for the street and braggin rights(and yes it is your money Virginia!) dyno queen what ever, that great! If you are happy great...but if you are spoutin stuff about hypothetical trips to the track...please stop...go to the freakin track NOW!!(well next year since the season is over)...post some time slips and some vids...this is a family and consider this an intervention...let the ricers etc be the posers....remember the movie Walkin Tall? speak softly but carry a freakin HUGE stick!

for those questioning the above, below is my latest vid from the 1/4 with my fastest time to date....5k PLUS launch rpm...and ALL of my mods are in my sig and I do ZERO weight reduction...half tank of gas....PROVING these cars are TOUGH IF drivin properly...wheel hop breaks axles...

if I have pissed anybody off my politically correct filter has been turn off and is stayin off until I die, my intent was to cause a few of you to rethink what the heck you are doin, maybe save some money and for me I'm havin a blast with this car as is and I drive it every day unless rain or snow..peace out!

Hotstreak2 · 11-12-2017, 01:17 PM

Thanks for your opinions guys. Frankwjr it’s all good man I know I didn’t included maybe a lot of these to help someone give myself some advice. Ultimate goals to be honest I don’t have any. I mean eventually I would like to be a forged stroke 408 and a turbo or two. But that is far down the road, right now I really just enjoy the car I have taken it to the track twice but having to ride the clutch out of the hole so that I limit the wheel hop I didn’t real care for so I know that until I fix the appropriate things to get rid of the hop I don’t really have a desire to take it back to the strip however I love playing on the street so that’s why I made the post it’s either solve the wheel hop with proper parts and go to a wheel and tire setup for the track or it’s stay with the stock highway tires and do the nitrous kit. I say kit but I’ve pieced a kit together to make it safe and reliable and would be a 150 shot

Synner · 11-12-2017, 02:38 PM

Do some rear bushings like cradle, trailing, and toe; then go to the track. Learn on and enjoy the vehicle you have now. Too many people throw parts at something without ever optimizing what they have. You will learn a lot more about your vehicle by doing something, tracking it, and identifying the weak link and upgrading smartly. It's helpful to be in a more controlled environment where you have time metrics to inform both your driving and your mods.

11-11-2017, 11:38 AM	#1
Hotstreak2 Drives: 2010 ss inferno orange Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Pflugerville, tx Posts: 6	What to do next Hey everyone I don’t post much in here really just like to learn by reading however I’m at a crossroads and not sure which way to turn. My current car is a m6 ss with cai, long tube headers with off-road extensions, tsp stage3 n/a cam 231/246 on a 111 lsa. My question is I’m debating putting it on the bottle with nitrous outlet plate kit and supporting mods or should I do rear subframe and cradle bushings, axles and wheels and tires? The car doesn’t see see the track and won’t until I feel comfortable where it won’t wheel hop. But being that it’s really just a street car putting it on the bottle, would I start to break things? Right now the car doesn’t really hook with the pirrelis so I would assume that it wouldnt really hook hard enough to break anything with it on the bottle. Any input is appreciated

11-11-2017, 08:01 PM	#2
MessySS Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: California Posts: 6	I’m in the same boat...I have a cai, long tubes, stage 3 btr 229/244 113 cam, ls7 lifters, double valve springs, and a custom tune. I have the l99 with dod/afm delete and I think the next step is a stall. The builder couldn’t stress enough as to how much better the car would perform but after the stall I’m leaning towards gears before nitrous. __________________ 2010 SSll L99 A6 ~ Kooks Long Tubes ~ BTR Stage 3 Comp Cam ~ Volant CAI ~ DOD Delete ~ MSD Wires ~ Custom Dyno Tune

11-12-2017, 08:24 AM	#5
christianchevell old school chevy rodder Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,587 View My Garage	Trailing arms and toes as a pair........Bottles are just for play especially for your case with stock hypereutectic pistons and if not set up right just like FI can melt you down....or blow you up..LOL so limiting it to a lower 150 -200 down shot is what some do not a real 2 stage etc, and remember its got to be able to increase the fuel and have a better pump etc......DO some BMR and loose the wheel hop, they also make nice things like delrin bushing upper a arm, sways, etc.... a nice LPW cover can hold the rear diff together also. Many say oh do the drop the whole friggin rear suspension bushings like your made of money its involved ...drop the exhaust etc etc etc .... Just get some trailing arms and toes and you will notice a big difference. Most launch BTW in the 3500 rpm range not to spin too much not the stupid high launch control rpm which sucks, and Hooking...not going to happen really with highway tires and more likely to screw the pooch with super sticky tires on hot pavement.....I baby my car avoiding damaging the rear axles and well have more torque now than I use , staying out of it is a art. Now if Cletus owned my car he would be on his 20th set of stock axles, maybe a rear end also or two... wheel spin actually helps avoid damaging the axles with out wheel hop...... And true drag radials are screwed to the rim to keep the tire from turning in the rim while its spinning as it wrinkles also.... I have so much torque I just had to change out the rear tires, Toyo Proxes 4 + same kind of AAA traction etc like a Pirelli only 500 wear rating versus 220 and I got maybe 15k on the tires never trying to burn out,( I have trouble getting off the stop light even not with at least some slip of the rear even going low as I have a 950 idle 1500 take off to avoid cam surge kind of build); and our tires in the rear wear the inside due to squat the way a sports car should like any upper end BMW...etc The contact patch not so big......torque management smacked like a bitch in a tune nannies on I can get fishy in about any gear hitting the other gear too hard with too much revs per shift, but I am stroked , it was not so bad just cammed...... __________________ 2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop Last edited by christianchevell; 11-12-2017 at 08:35 AM.

11-11-2017, 09:55 PM	#3
Blakester Drives: 2010 1ss Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Colorado Springs co Posts: 174	Personally, i am going to wait to do any mods untill i have axles, driveshaft, and 17 or 18 inch drag radials. Its hard because i have headers, trailing arms, toe rods, solid subframe bushings, and a 3.91 diff waiting to be installed already. But i want too be able to put the power down some what reliably right off the bat.

11-12-2017, 12:18 AM	#4
camarosspower Drives: 2010 camaro ss Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Port Arthur, Tx Posts: 2,383	Do trailing arms at least and cradle bushings. Axles will be on borrowed time on sticky tires. Spinning ain't winning

11-12-2017, 01:17 PM	#7
Hotstreak2 Drives: 2010 ss inferno orange Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Pflugerville, tx Posts: 6	Thanks for your opinions guys. Frankwjr it’s all good man I know I didn’t included maybe a lot of these to help someone give myself some advice. Ultimate goals to be honest I don’t have any. I mean eventually I would like to be a forged stroke 408 and a turbo or two. But that is far down the road, right now I really just enjoy the car I have taken it to the track twice but having to ride the clutch out of the hole so that I limit the wheel hop I didn’t real care for so I know that until I fix the appropriate things to get rid of the hop I don’t really have a desire to take it back to the strip however I love playing on the street so that’s why I made the post it’s either solve the wheel hop with proper parts and go to a wheel and tire setup for the track or it’s stay with the stock highway tires and do the nitrous kit. I say kit but I’ve pieced a kit together to make it safe and reliable and would be a 150 shot

11-12-2017, 02:38 PM	#8
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,544	Do some rear bushings like cradle, trailing, and toe; then go to the track. Learn on and enjoy the vehicle you have now. Too many people throw parts at something without ever optimizing what they have. You will learn a lot more about your vehicle by doing something, tracking it, and identifying the weak link and upgrading smartly. It's helpful to be in a more controlled environment where you have time metrics to inform both your driving and your mods.