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Old 03-10-2014, 03:11 PM   #29
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Latest report: I put about 350 miles on my car this weekend. And honestly, any difference in NVH from how it was before with the stock motor mounts is VERY minimal!!! Brett told me that the polyurethane bushing does not "break in" or change its characteristics in any way after any seating-in period or anything, so maybe I'm just getting used to them now?? But seriously, I hardly notice them at all. We will begin ramping up for production soon. No word on pricing yet.
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:18 PM   #30
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The biggest difference seen is in engine rock. Video your engine as you crank the car with and without motor mount upgrades. It's night and day.
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:50 PM   #31
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I'm interested for sure. Last Saturday at the track I pulled the right header away from the cat back. Scared the crap out of me because it got real loud real fast when I left lol, thought I done popped a piston or something at first.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:47 PM   #32
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One thing I can say about BMR, they make there parts STRONG! Every thing they make looks like overkill! I can't complain about that though.
Nice looking engine mount.
I just broke my left side mount too! I'm trying the pfadt mounts this weekend, wish I knew sooner. Not that PFADT doesn't make excellent performance parts, I use them too, with great results!
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:47 AM   #33
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Quote:
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I'm interested for sure. Last Saturday at the track I pulled the right header away from the cat back. Scared the crap out of me because it got real loud real fast when I left lol, thought I done popped a piston or something at first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 10 2SS/RS 6M View Post
One thing I can say about BMR, they make there parts STRONG! Every thing they make looks like overkill! I can't complain about that though.
Nice looking engine mount.
I just broke my left side mount too! I'm trying the pfadt mounts this weekend, wish I knew sooner. Not that PFADT doesn't make excellent performance parts, I use them too, with great results!
I had the same thing happen to me, it turned out to be a missing lower motor mount bolt.
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:54 PM   #34
10 2SS/RS 6M
 
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I had the same thing happen to me, it turned out to be a missing lower motor mount bolt.
Wish that's all it was for me. Sometimes you get lucky sometimes you don't.
I had a bleeder come loose (slave cylinder), thought it was the slave, I lucked out there, that was a while ago.
But it was the mount, now fixed.
Aftermarket mounts on the way.
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SOLD.
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Old 03-11-2014, 11:20 PM   #35
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Will these be available in black for the stealthy guys?

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Old 03-12-2014, 12:24 AM   #36
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:38 AM   #37
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I have a 2010 and just (as in last night) received the "old" design as ordered (thanks, Apex) set up for my FE3 suspension. If I am not road racin' or auto-x'ing my car each weekend would only be corner carving on the road...is there a reason to swap?
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:42 AM   #38
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Any way you can verify that this doesn't increase false knock at any rpm? Have heard of some issues with stiffer mounts causing this problem. Thanks! I'll be looking into these if they work out!
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:05 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefighter View Post
Will these be available in black for the stealthy guys?
Yes, we plan on offering them in BMR Red and the Black Hammertone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ClawSS View Post
I have a 2010 and just (as in last night) received the "old" design as ordered (thanks, Apex) set up for my FE3 suspension. If I am not road racin' or auto-x'ing my car each weekend would only be corner carving on the road...is there a reason to swap?
I'm assuming you're talking about the TCA028 or TCA029 lower control arms, right? If you don't ever plan on switching to the FE4 Suspension, there is no reason to change them. For aggressive street driving, the FE3 is more than capable!!!
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:14 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by TornadoSS View Post
Any way you can verify that this doesn't increase false knock at any rpm? Have heard of some issues with stiffer mounts causing this problem. Thanks! I'll be looking into these if they work out!
We have only done limited testing with these, and so far have not experienced any increased false knock readings on our data logs while street driving. Of course with typical high HP applications or drag racing scenarios, the chance of increased false knock usually rears it's ugly head, especially when stiffer "race" parts are installed all over the car. As was explained to me, there's a reason that GM uses soft rubbery bushings and mounts!!!
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:45 AM   #41
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One note about the installation of these.....On my car, we couldn't lift the engine high enough to clear the long studs on the stock motor mounts, so we had to unbolt the aluminum motor stand block from the side of the block (4 bolts), and take out the motor and block as an assembly. In order to gain access to those 4 bolts, we had to remove my ARH Headers. So, depending on which headers you have, installation of these can take some time. Maybe with other headers (different primary routing) or stock manifolds, maybe you can get to those bolts, but on my car it didn't work out that way.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:59 AM   #42
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Mounts

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One note about the installation of these.....On my car, we couldn't lift the engine high enough to clear the long studs on the stock motor mounts, so we had to unbolt the aluminum motor stand block from the side of the block (4 bolts), and take out the motor and block as an assembly. In order to gain access to those 4 bolts, we had to remove my ARH Headers. So, depending on which headers you have, installation of these can take some time. Maybe with other headers (different primary routing) or stock manifolds, maybe you can get to those bolts, but on my car it didn't work out that way.
So you actually removed the engine from the car???
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