V6 Brake advice

[Chris_B]

Originally Posted by Blacc Mamba

I plan on going auto crossing a few times by the end of the year so that why I made that choice. But I'll probably swap to stock for now.

That's a great plan! If you ever get through the HP Plus set, you may want to try the Hawk DTC-30. It's technically a race pad, but works very well cold. They are even noisier than the HP Plus, but they stop like few pads can. I've almost shattered windows when testing them in my daily driver. But you'll be wiping snot off of the windshield when you stand on the whoa pedal, for sure!!

[Blacc Mamba]

Originally Posted by Chris_B

That's a great plan! If you ever get through the HP Plus set, you may want to try the Hawk DTC-30. It's technically a race pad, but works very well cold. They are even noisier than the HP Plus, but they stop like few pads can. I've almost shattered windows when testing them in my daily driver. But you'll be wiping snot off of the windshield when you stand on the whoa pedal, for sure!!

[JohnZ]

Don't forget to get some good high temp brake fluid.

[Cyber Gray]

Originally Posted by Blacc Mamba

I recently upgraded to brembos with dba 4000xs, and hawk hps plus and they are extremely loud, I'm thinking of trying stock ones for a while to rid the noise

Well I didnt go for the ceramic because they dont work well in our claimte, and turn to cause a loud sound!

and I didnt go for the HPS plus because I dont go on tracks, so I went with the HPS street ones with dba 4000 rotors. Hopefully the run easy on those rotors!!

[Cyber Gray]

Originally Posted by JohnZ

Don't forget to get some good high temp brake fluid.

Sure

[RickRay]

Originally Posted by RickRay

OK...
so which Pads are better then OEM (Rear) GM Pads ($350 CDN)($204 US)($133 GMPARTSHOUSE)...I'm an aggressive stopper.

Originally Posted by Shu71

I'd get just some OEM replacement pads. I wouldn't upgrade the rear pads without also upgrading the fronts to keep the balance good. If you have an AutoZone nearby, maybe try Duralast Gold DG1337, $50 a pair in the states, for the rears and DG1404 $100 for the fronts. They are Ceramic. Or semi metallic MKD1337 $43 and MKD1404 $84. And have the rotors deglazed.

Thanks

[Shu71]

Originally Posted by JohnZ

Don't forget to get some good high temp brake fluid.

Do not mix fluid types though. Even if you drain your stock fluid reservoir and the lines there is residual fluid that if mixed with the wrong DOT rating will create goo in your brake system and it is a PIA to get cleaned out. Read what comes stock in your car and then what other DOT ratings are compatible and choose wisely.

[Cyber Gray]

Originally Posted by Shu71

Do not mix fluid types though. Even if you drain your stock fluid reservoir and the lines there is residual fluid that if mixed with the wrong DOT rating will create goo in your brake system and it is a PIA to get cleaned out. Read what comes stock in your car and then what other DOT ratings are compatible and choose wisely.

You are right!

GM recommends DOT3 fluid and this type doesnt mix with DOT4 or 5.

[JohnZ]

With changing the brake fluid, isn't that just a matter of flushing the system completely? When my friend changed his brake fluid, he flushed all the old stuff and a half liter of the new fluid to ensure there was no residual fluid.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by JohnZ

With changing the brake fluid, isn't that just a matter of flushing the system completely? When my friend changed his brake fluid, he flushed all the old stuff and a half liter of the new fluid to ensure there was no residual fluid.

Unless he used a TECH II tool to cycle the ABS pump there is residual fluid. Using the 2010 Corvette program and following the sequence that shows on the TECH II cycles the ABS pump so a fluid change can be made. As long as you are using a compatible brake fluid this is not necessary. If you are upgrading fluid the extra step is important.

[Chris_B]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Unless he used a TECH II tool to cycle the ABS pump there is residual fluid. Using the 2010 Corvette program and following the sequence that shows on the TECH II cycles the ABS pump so a fluid change can be made. As long as you are using a compatible brake fluid this is not necessary. If you are upgrading fluid the extra step is important.

Let's not forget the 2-year rule. If the brake fluid is over 2 years old, it needs to be replaced regardless if it is an upgrade or not. Since brake fluid is hygroscopic (readily absorbs moisture), it's boiling point drops over time. Early 2010's are coming up on the 2 year mark, so let's be sure to put a brake fluid flush on the next complete service schedule!

[JohnZ]

What is a TECH II tool ? where do you get one?

[Cyber Gray]

Originally Posted by JohnZ

What is a TECH II tool ? where do you get one?

I think that this is a GM scanner.

[Chris_B]

Originally Posted by JohnZ

What is a TECH II tool ? where do you get one?

Right, it's the old GM scan tool. Now replaced by the MDI. They are available all over, but a subscription to get all the GM goodies and latest coding is required. You're looking at several thousand dollars in total, or go to a shop that already has one (we do!).