DIY-Adding a Sub/Amp to a BA system via RCA splicing - Page 5 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Slomo051 · 11-25-2011, 01:13 PM

After a few hours research on similar issues in this forum, i ended up using a (Scosche) LOC...car lit up!! Haven't played with a car stereo upgrade (DIY) in over 20 tears

SWRocket · 11-26-2011, 04:06 PM

Any reason for using the rear as opposed to the front lowlevels?

Slomo051 · 11-26-2011, 05:01 PM

This thread in the beginning used the rear level to tap into...made sense and was validated as a good source. Hind site being 20/20 I would've used the front instead in case I wanted to fade to the front and not loose rear & bass signal by fading.

System is more than good for me now...

SWRocket · 11-27-2011, 07:41 AM

My thought exactly. I do, in fact, fade forward most of the time.

Jonny · 11-27-2011, 01:10 PM

On the flip side of things, connecting to the rear inputs can be a very smart move if you don't have any kind of remote knob. Then you can fade to the front, maintain excellent sound quality, and have a way to gradually adjust your woofer down to an appropriate level. (I constantly have to use my remote knob, as different songs either need the boost all the way up, or all the way down.)

Slomo051 · 11-27-2011, 03:09 PM

Good point Jonny...after i answered my previous post, i drove for about 300 miles from Vegas to LA and did exactly as you said...faded to the front to balance out. Worked like a charm. I guess either way you tap into the system can be user preferance...also I don't have a bass remote knob.

UFN Wish · 12-07-2011, 08:18 AM

How much was your wiring kit?

Devryn17 · 12-07-2011, 08:37 PM

I did this today. Really easy and OMG what a difference.

Slomo051 · 12-10-2011, 10:32 AM

UFN Wish,

Other than the amp wiring kit (about 25 bucks from e-bay..."pyle" brand) i spent about 10 bucks on splices, etc and used stuff I already had laying around. Sorry it took a few days to answer...

1BADZL1 · 12-11-2011, 02:18 AM

Subscribed. Havent even got my car yet but I know the first thing Im gonna do. Piece of cake...Im gonna go the ******** route..
Also....you typically always want to wire a sub amp from the rear leads and not the fronts...
An simple way of looking at it is, your bass speaker are always going to be to the 'rear' of you not the 'front' of you......
Always use the rear channel.... Then if your using bi amp... the jump across both amps... normally your amp will be ready for this and all you have to do is run a hot lead for power...
As I did not dig through the entire thread... if both front and rear are low levels then it don't matter which one you use.... But typically you would use rears first...

BAMFSS · 12-11-2011, 06:51 AM

Very helpful, the original post was! After rummaging through all the "that's not right, this other way is right" posts. Can't wait to get back to the states to install my stuff!

jfcody3962 · 12-13-2011, 07:38 AM

Has anyone replaced the factory amp completely WITHOUT using the FARK connectors from Steve?

csendlak · 05-28-2012, 11:11 PM

Has anyone encountered a hissing issue connecting the spliced rca to your amp?

I've tried to wire my sub-amp with the low level outputs from the x3 connector, tried both the right and left and reversed polarity just to be sure. Still get a hiss in the speaker i spliced as soon as the negative connection touches the amp rca . . . pretty much at a loss . . . any of you guys run into this/have any ideas?? thanks

darkrider01 · 05-29-2012, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by csendlak

Has anyone encountered a hissing issue connecting the spliced rca to your amp?

I've tried to wire my sub-amp with the low level outputs from the x3 connector, tried both the right and left and reversed polarity just to be sure. Still get a hiss in the speaker i spliced as soon as the negative connection touches the amp rca . . . pretty much at a loss . . . any of you guys run into this/have any ideas?? thanks

How are your gains set? Often, hiss is caused by too high of input voltage (the BA system radios put out high voltage). Try turning the gains down to 0 and see if they still hiss.

11-25-2011, 01:13 PM	#57
Slomo051 Drives: 2011 2LT/RS Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 21	UPDATE FIXED--Easy job but.... After a few hours research on similar issues in this forum, i ended up using a (Scosche) LOC...car lit up!! Haven't played with a car stereo upgrade (DIY) in over 20 tears

11-27-2011, 01:10 PM	#61
Jonny Drives: 2011 2LT RS Convertible Camaro Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Near Austin, Texas Posts: 329	On the flip side of things, connecting to the rear inputs can be a very smart move if you don't have any kind of remote knob. Then you can fade to the front, maintain excellent sound quality, and have a way to gradually adjust your woofer down to an appropriate level. (I constantly have to use my remote knob, as different songs either need the boost all the way up, or all the way down.) __________________ 2011 "Victory Red" Camaro 2LT Convertible RS • Custom Painted "Corvette Black" Racing Stripes • SLP Rear Quarter Gill Graphics • Painted Engine Cover • EmblemPros Underhood Bowtie • River City Creations Custom Painted Bowties • Vararam Intake • JDP V6 VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Hypertech Max Energy Programming • ******** Large Sub Enclosure • 10" DC Sound Labs Level Four Subwoofer • Sundown SAX-1200d Amp • 2SSRS Rear View Backup Camera Kit

12-07-2011, 08:37 PM	#64
Devryn17 Suffers Fools Poorly Drives: 2010 SS/RS, CGM w/ Silver Stripes. Join Date: May 2011 Location: Coolidge, AZ Posts: 1,117	I did this today. Really easy and OMG what a difference. __________________ 2010 2SS/RS, CGM w/ silver stripes. Hurst Shifter, long tube headers, full exhaust, CAI, tune. SAE 407 RWHP/402 RWTQ Momma didn't bronze my shoes, but when I turned 16 I inherited a lead foot.

12-11-2011, 02:18 AM	#66
1BADZL1 THE CAMARO KING Drives: 2012 Camaro ZL1 on order #PZSD7S Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Out Somewhere Driving My 'BADZL1' Posts: 2,284	Subscribed. Havent even got my car yet but I know the first thing Im gonna do. Piece of cake...Im gonna go the ****** route.. Also....you typically always want to wire a sub amp from the rear leads and not the fronts... An simple way of looking at it is, your bass speaker are always going to be to the 'rear' of you not the 'front' of you...... Always use the rear channel.... Then if your using bi amp... the jump across both amps... normally your amp will be ready for this and all you have to do is run a hot lead for power... As I did not dig through the entire thread... if both front and rear are low levels then it don't matter which one you use.... But typically you would use rears first... __________________ 2012 Camaro ZL1 Car Name: Bruce ZL1, LSA, MN6/MG9, DSX, RTQ, VR, Current Status: 2030 1000 Initial Order 11/11/2011 Chevyland 1100 Order accepted at dealer: 11/11/2011 - PZSD7S** 2000 Order accepted by GM: 12/14/2011 3000 Accepted By Production Control: 00/00/2011 - TPW 00/00/2011 3100 Sequenced: 00/00/2011 3300 Scheduled For Production:0/0/2012 3400 Broadcast: 0/0/2012 3800 Produced: 0/0/2012 4000 Available To Ship: 0/0/2012 4200 Shipped: 0/0/2012 5000 Delivered To The Dealer: 0/0/2012 6000 Delivered To Customer:0/0/2012

12-13-2011, 07:38 AM	#68
jfcody3962 Newbie Drives: 2016 2SS Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Mt. Airy, MD Posts: 99	Has anyone replaced the factory amp completely WITHOUT using the FARK connectors from Steve? __________________ 2016 2SS A8, Mag Ride, NPP, Sunroof, MRR MO17s in gloss black, 275/35 front, 305/35 rear, painted calipers

11-26-2011, 04:06 PM	#58
SWRocket Drives: 2021 2SS Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Vaughan, ON Posts: 612 View My Garage	Any reason for using the rear as opposed to the front lowlevels?

11-26-2011, 05:01 PM	#59
Slomo051 Drives: 2011 2LT/RS Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 21	This thread in the beginning used the rear level to tap into...made sense and was validated as a good source. Hind site being 20/20 I would've used the front instead in case I wanted to fade to the front and not loose rear & bass signal by fading. System is more than good for me now...

11-27-2011, 07:41 AM	#60
SWRocket Drives: 2021 2SS Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Vaughan, ON Posts: 612 View My Garage	My thought exactly. I do, in fact, fade forward most of the time.

11-27-2011, 03:09 PM	#62
Slomo051 Drives: 2011 2LT/RS Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 21	Good point Jonny...after i answered my previous post, i drove for about 300 miles from Vegas to LA and did exactly as you said...faded to the front to balance out. Worked like a charm. I guess either way you tap into the system can be user preferance...also I don't have a bass remote knob.

12-07-2011, 08:18 AM	#63
UFN Wish Drives: 2010 Camaro LS Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Pensacola, Florida Posts: 144	How much was your wiring kit?

12-10-2011, 10:32 AM	#65
Slomo051 Drives: 2011 2LT/RS Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 21	UFN Wish, Other than the amp wiring kit (about 25 bucks from e-bay..."pyle" brand) i spent about 10 bucks on splices, etc and used stuff I already had laying around. Sorry it took a few days to answer...

12-11-2011, 06:51 AM	#67
BAMFSS Drives: '10 IBM 1SS/RS Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Destin Posts: 128	Very helpful, the original post was! After rummaging through all the "that's not right, this other way is right" posts. Can't wait to get back to the states to install my stuff!

05-28-2012, 11:11 PM	#69
csendlak Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2011 Location: Houston TX Posts: 79	Has anyone encountered a hissing issue connecting the spliced rca to your amp? I've tried to wire my sub-amp with the low level outputs from the x3 connector, tried both the right and left and reversed polarity just to be sure. Still get a hiss in the speaker i spliced as soon as the negative connection touches the amp rca . . . pretty much at a loss . . . any of you guys run into this/have any ideas?? thanks

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