Cam bearing are in.. the build starts tonight!! - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Sturgill_SS · 02-19-2018, 09:38 AM

Got the block pulled and new cam bearings replaced.

Tonight I will be starting with the cam and working my way back up. Getting the heads compression tested tomorrow just to make sure that the new springs and valves are seated properly. Question on torque specs, do you builders torque every single bolt to spec or do you primarily just focus on the head bolts?

christianchevell · 02-19-2018, 10:02 AM

Holy Moly...Just take it too a machinist if you have too, things are torqued in rounds progressively torqueing them higher and higher in sequence as in heads, intakes anything.....and most have professionals build things more expensive because hey they are the ones doing the honing or the machining and the pistons rings ,etc etc , I used to do small block chevy stuff up to 406, stuff costs more for LS by far; my bare block...I could have built a entire engine for the cost intake to pan edelbrock and such.....
Don't torque something right or do something wrong and it does come back to haunt you, apparently your cam bearing were in such bad shape you had to replace them...that's not a good sign for other things yet cam bearings do get bunged up changing cams if you don't know what your doing well and even then sometimes..... Good Luck, and .020 the max overhone of a ls3, .030 the average overbore of SBC to freshen it up, $1400 cost of bare ls3 block with cast in sleeves....just some facts to throw out there......... Sounds like your not even looking at the bottom end and may have the engine in the cradle doing this not going through the whole thing and if your just doing the top end cleaning it up so to speak somewhere on here in past posts of course are the torque specs to every thing and you can find them on here or the net with searching.

Russell James · 02-19-2018, 10:03 AM

Depends on what the service manual says. Some are TTY. Some are lb ft Tq. Some are depth, like the crank bolt is a combo of setting the crank snout depth, then a series of Tq on the old bolt, then new bolt. Some there are a sequence, like the rockers have a sequence at #1 TDC compression, Rotate 360, do the rest. Some are non critical, just one grunt with tongue out.

The shorter answer is...follow the service manual for all critical fasteners. Non critical, like the dipstick tube bolt...blue Loctite and one grunt.

The less experience you have with the job, follow the manual. The more experience, you'll have a feel for it from doing it by the book the first few times.

go_go_gadget88 · 02-19-2018, 10:20 AM

Not that this is right or wrong..but being a new wrench to the LS stuff, here is a list of things I torqued to spec, and things I (as Russell says) loctite and grunt

There are probably many things I didn't need to torque to spec, but since I didn't KNOW, I err'd on the side of caution. Also, don't over-torque anything going into the block..or you're gonna have a bad time. I don't see how you could ever go wrong torquing to spec. Also pretty sure I will miss some things here, but it's a rough idea

Torque to spec (or yield, if using TTY bolts), no particular order:

-Cam retainer plate
-Cam bolts (ARP recommended process)
-Oil pump
-Oil pump cover
-Oil Pan
-Timing cover
-Balancer
-Cam sensor
-Heads (ARP recommended process, and I would clean out the holes first)
-Rockers
-Valve covers
-Intake Manifold
-Water pump

Not torqued to spec:
-Oil pickup tube (not getting torque wrench in there without dropping pan)
-Alternator
-PS pump
-headers
-ground wires
-coolant plug/temp sensor
-throttle body
-ignition coil brackets
-fuel rail
-battery cable tray
-radiator/condensor/lines/fans
-CAI and clamps

frankwjr · 02-19-2018, 10:39 AM

what NOT to do is over TQ into alum....that's the diff. smaller acc items to not have the same loads as others...strip those out and you scream to high heaven(and then go out and buy a heli-coil kit and hope to fix)..

gj on the motor work...sux on the front end but feels better and better as she goes back together...TAKE YOUR TIME...lulz...peace out!

hammdo · 02-19-2018, 10:45 AM

I torque to spec.. everything including spark plugs. Those spec are there for a reason. If aftermarket, by their specs...

I take my time and do it once, the right way ...

Better to be certain...

I’m anal that way from experience...

-Don

Sturgill_SS · 02-19-2018, 12:17 PM

Thanks for the help you guys. Christian the block was taken out and thoroughly gone through. Everything looks great. The green light means go. Little bit at a time and she will be back on the road in no time.

Sturgill_SS · 02-21-2018, 12:59 PM

Everything is on except for the intake, water pump, and wire harnesses! This has been a fun project! Cant wait to get it complete. What spark plugs do you guy recommend?

hammdo · 02-21-2018, 01:23 PM

Fantastic! Can’t wait to see results...

-Don

Sturgill_SS · 02-21-2018, 05:15 PM

I see you bought those ZL1 wheels from Mike, Hammdo.. Super jealous

I've been wanting to buy those for quite some time now. Got to get the car running first though! LOL. Car looks great

Pro-tuned · 02-21-2018, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sturgill_SS

Got the block pulled and new cam bearings replaced.

Great choice!

Witt51 · 02-25-2018, 01:03 PM

Do you happen have a Pic of your cam bearings? I just pulled my engine and my bearings I think are shot. That's less than 1k miles on new rebuild

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

frankwjr · 02-25-2018, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Witt51

Do you happen have a Pic of your cam bearings? I just pulled my engine and my bearings I think are shot. That's less than 1k miles on new rebuild

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

best just to start your own thread bro...that being said WTF you havin to pull the motor after 1k??? who did the work? they do not look good...

Sturgill_SS · 02-25-2018, 01:39 PM

yea those do not look good...

02-19-2018, 10:02 AM	#2
christianchevell old school chevy rodder Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,587 View My Garage	Holy Moly...Just take it too a machinist if you have too, things are torqued in rounds progressively torqueing them higher and higher in sequence as in heads, intakes anything.....and most have professionals build things more expensive because hey they are the ones doing the honing or the machining and the pistons rings ,etc etc , I used to do small block chevy stuff up to 406, stuff costs more for LS by far; my bare block...I could have built a entire engine for the cost intake to pan edelbrock and such..... Don't torque something right or do something wrong and it does come back to haunt you, apparently your cam bearing were in such bad shape you had to replace them...that's not a good sign for other things yet cam bearings do get bunged up changing cams if you don't know what your doing well and even then sometimes..... Good Luck, and .020 the max overhone of a ls3, .030 the average overbore of SBC to freshen it up, $1400 cost of bare ls3 block with cast in sleeves....just some facts to throw out there......... Sounds like your not even looking at the bottom end and may have the engine in the cradle doing this not going through the whole thing and if your just doing the top end cleaning it up so to speak somewhere on here in past posts of course are the torque specs to every thing and you can find them on here or the net with searching. __________________ 2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop

02-19-2018, 10:20 AM	#4
go_go_gadget88 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS ABM 6M Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Kansas Posts: 617	Not that this is right or wrong..but being a new wrench to the LS stuff, here is a list of things I torqued to spec, and things I (as Russell says) loctite and grunt There are probably many things I didn't need to torque to spec, but since I didn't KNOW, I err'd on the side of caution. Also, don't over-torque anything going into the block..or you're gonna have a bad time. I don't see how you could ever go wrong torquing to spec. Also pretty sure I will miss some things here, but it's a rough idea Torque to spec (or yield, if using TTY bolts), no particular order: -Cam retainer plate -Cam bolts (ARP recommended process) -Oil pump -Oil pump cover -Oil Pan -Timing cover -Balancer -Cam sensor -Heads (ARP recommended process, and I would clean out the holes first) -Rockers -Valve covers -Intake Manifold -Water pump Not torqued to spec: -Oil pickup tube (not getting torque wrench in there without dropping pan) -Alternator -PS pump -headers -ground wires -coolant plug/temp sensor -throttle body -ignition coil brackets -fuel rail -battery cable tray -radiator/condensor/lines/fans -CAI and clamps __________________ 2010 ABM 2SS/RS LS3 6 Speed -- Rotofab CAI \| Speed Engineering 1 7/8" Longtubes w/ cat Delete \| Magnaflow competition catback \| TSP 231/246 cam\| TSP/PAC .660" Spring Kit \| TSP CNC Ported Heads \| Bo White PTB \| GPI Ported/RM Intake \| 3.91's \| BC Catch Can \| MGW Shifter \| BMR 1" Drop Springs \| BMR Trailing arms/Toe Rods/Rear UCA Bushings \| Pegasus Subframe Mounts Last edited by go_go_gadget88; 02-19-2018 at 10:46 AM.

02-19-2018, 10:39 AM	#5
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,445	what NOT to do is over TQ into alum....that's the diff. smaller acc items to not have the same loads as others...strip those out and you scream to high heaven(and then go out and buy a heli-coil kit and hope to fix).. gj on the motor work...sux on the front end but feels better and better as she goes back together...TAKE YOUR TIME...lulz...peace out! __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

02-19-2018, 10:45 AM	#6
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	I torque to spec.. everything including spark plugs. Those spec are there for a reason. If aftermarket, by their specs... I take my time and do it once, the right way ... Better to be certain... I’m anal that way from experience... -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

02-21-2018, 01:23 PM	#9
hammdo 'It's an experiment' Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014 Location: Dallas TX Posts: 8,694 View My Garage	Fantastic! Can’t wait to see results... -Don __________________ 747 RWHP 794 RWTQ "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577

02-19-2018, 09:38 AM	#1
Sturgill_SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Independence, KY Posts: 518	Cam bearing are in.. the build starts tonight!! Got the block pulled and new cam bearings replaced. Tonight I will be starting with the cam and working my way back up. Getting the heads compression tested tomorrow just to make sure that the new springs and valves are seated properly. Question on torque specs, do you builders torque every single bolt to spec or do you primarily just focus on the head bolts?

02-19-2018, 10:03 AM	#3
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	Depends on what the service manual says. Some are TTY. Some are lb ft Tq. Some are depth, like the crank bolt is a combo of setting the crank snout depth, then a series of Tq on the old bolt, then new bolt. Some there are a sequence, like the rockers have a sequence at #1 TDC compression, Rotate 360, do the rest. Some are non critical, just one grunt with tongue out. The shorter answer is...follow the service manual for all critical fasteners. Non critical, like the dipstick tube bolt...blue Loctite and one grunt. The less experience you have with the job, follow the manual. The more experience, you'll have a feel for it from doing it by the book the first few times.

02-19-2018, 12:17 PM	#7
Sturgill_SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Independence, KY Posts: 518	Thanks for the help you guys. Christian the block was taken out and thoroughly gone through. Everything looks great. The green light means go. Little bit at a time and she will be back on the road in no time.

02-21-2018, 12:59 PM	#8
Sturgill_SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Independence, KY Posts: 518	Everything is on except for the intake, water pump, and wire harnesses! This has been a fun project! Cant wait to get it complete. What spark plugs do you guy recommend?

02-21-2018, 05:15 PM	#10
Sturgill_SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Independence, KY Posts: 518	I see you bought those ZL1 wheels from Mike, Hammdo.. Super jealous I've been wanting to buy those for quite some time now. Got to get the car running first though! LOL. Car looks great

02-25-2018, 01:03 PM	#12
Witt51 Drives: Black 2ss Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Illinois Posts: 232	Do you happen have a Pic of your cam bearings? I just pulled my engine and my bearings I think are shot. That's less than 1k miles on new rebuild Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

02-25-2018, 01:39 PM	#14
Sturgill_SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Independence, KY Posts: 518	yea those do not look good... __________________ F35 Cam / LOD X-1 Manifold / SLP CAI / LS7 Lifters / 3.91 Gears / Hooker Blackheart Exhaust / TSP Headers / SLP Underdrive Pulley / MGW STS / Trunnions and all that other fun stuff....