Why on earth would going N/A be considered a waste of money and time

[litle88]

Here's a site I use sometimes. It's pretty helpful.
http://mobile.dudamobile.com/site/wa...ng.com%2F#2707

[VADER SS L99]

Originally Posted by Nightmare2012

Yea and that's my dilemma i already had ordered my push rods before and they are 7.350 so im hoping it's the right choice!

This doesnt always work even when you list your head and cam specs. My car was down a extra day wainting on pushrods. Your going to want the length as accurate as possible to minimize noise and other problems.

[Nightmare2012]

F#ck well i hope for the best or else i might just have to sell my pushrods and get new ones

[thahemp]

Originally Posted by Nightmare2012

F#ck well i hope for the best or else i might just have to sell my pushrods and get new ones

That you might!

[Ken_]

Originally Posted by litle88

Yea but I'd mill then measure then mill (if I could) to get to the sweetest spot possible then order pushrods accordingly. I'm kinda anal lol like that. But compression both dynamic and static are important as well to me at least cause if I'm going in its gonna be th whole way lol.

Airtight porn just a little more... that's it... almost

[Ken_]

Originally Posted by litle88

Here's a site I use sometimes. It's pretty helpful.
http://mobile.dudamobile.com/site/wa...ng.com%2F#2707

Thanks!

[litle88]

Originally Posted by Ken_

Thanks!

haha,yea i saw that was a mobile version sorry. Here is a desktop one
http://wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

[thahemp]

The guy's heartfelt article on pontiac's demise was sad.

[fastvee]

Dollar for dollar boost is cheaper.

[DuskSS]

Originally Posted by fastvee

Dollar for dollar boost is cheaper.

Only if you are happy with low HP of bolt on safe stock systems
otherwise you still have to do the rest anyway.

Just postponing it is all you are doing unless you are satisfied with mediocrity which if I'm gonna do anything I'm going to do it right.
Blower is next after engine and suspension.
700+ HP with perfect street manners.

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk 2

[fastvee]

Originally Posted by jasonpope2003

Only if you are happy with low HP of bolt on safe stock systems
otherwise you still have to do the rest anyway.

Just postponing it is all you are doing unless you are satisfied with mediocrity which if I'm gonna do anything I'm going to do it right.
Blower is next after engine and suspension.
700+ HP with perfect street manners.

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk 2

What?

I have 6xx rwhp on my 5th gen 100% easy driveability street car with about 25k invested. FULL suspension, just about everything. The only thing I haven't touched is stock bottom end.


Now build me such a similar smooth "n/a" car with such good driveability.. If you want to up power on boost build all you gotta do is swap pulley or up the boost and boom you jump astronomical amounts.

There's a reason that most people go boost.....

Also if you look top of line cars they're boosted...not n/a. (ie ZR1, GT500, cts-v, GT40). Why? Cheaper and they're much more street friendly.

[Ken_]

Originally Posted by litle88

haha,yea i saw that was a mobile version sorry. Here is a desktop one
http://wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

Just checked it out. I've seen other e-based calculation tables and this one is packed! Thanks again

[DuskSS]

Originally Posted by fastvee

What?

I have 6xx rwhp on my 5th gen 100% easy driveability street car with about 25k invested. FULL suspension, just about everything. The only thing I haven't touched is stock bottom end.


Now build me such a similar smooth "n/a" car with such good driveability.. If you want to up power on boost build all you gotta do is swap pulley or up the boost and boom you jump astronomical amounts.

There's a reason that most people go boost.....

Also if you look top of line cars they're boosted...not n/a. (ie ZR1, GT500, cts-v, GT40). Why? Cheaper and they're much more street friendly.

That's fine and dandy but you would get even more if you blower cammed and changed the heads out or massive ported them then boosted after.
That's basic engine building.
A stock engine will never flow as well as one that is built from the ground up for boost

Boost is great and that is what mine is being built for.
But to say a stock engine with just a TVS slammed on vs a engine with heads intake and blower cam with a blower will still be better shows you don't understand how engines breathe.
The more air in and out the better and stock cams and heads just don't flow well enough.

You obviously didn't read the entire thread.
The guy I was quoting in the op said camming and heads were a waste and to just toss a blower on stock.

That's why I called bs and made the thread

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk 2

[litle88]

Originally Posted by fastvee

What?

I have 6xx rwhp on my 5th gen 100% easy driveability street car with about 25k invested. FULL suspension, just about everything. The only thing I haven't touched is stock bottom end.


Now build me such a similar smooth "n/a" car with such good driveability.. If you want to up power on boost build all you gotta do is swap pulley or up the boost and boom you jump astronomical amounts.

There's a reason that most people go boost.....

Also if you look top of line cars they're boosted...not n/a. (ie ZR1, GT500, cts-v, GT40). Why? Cheaper and they're much more street friendly.

Well that's according to you, you like it smooth and probably like to drive with leather gloves and a Kango hat lol.

Hp is just a number, what are your track times? You can have 800+ hp and have a full pedders suspension but will you been hooking?

I can say you've build a car without a strong foundation. I can say you'll be spending more money when that rod guess thru the block ( not wishing that at all) but merely stating what can happen.

I don't want a smooth car, I have American Muscle cars I want to have fun driving them.

I think the ctsv's, Zr/L-1's are FI because its easier to pass emissions and avoid luxury or has guzzler tax.