Where should I go to get oil changed after 500 miles?

[2010SSRS]

some of us "old school" rodders still drop the 1st "break in" oil at 500 as that's what ya did on garage engine rebuilds and restorations.

also, if i remember my father correctly, classic muscle when purchased new recommended a 500 mile "break in" oil drop as well.

i made it to 1000 miles with the 5th gen and couldn't take it anymore (dreams of metal shavings). i took her to my local dealer and they did it right there with me watching. nobody drove it but the manager and he made any techs near it wear gloves.....

they also checked everything else out and made sure she was all good! i saw the oil drop and know sleep better at nite! $84.01 for 7.8qts of Mobil1, peice of mind and a good nites sleep...........priceless..

ps - know, i get in the throttle a little harder......still being nice though..

[ssump29]

Originally Posted by 2010SSRS

some of us "old school" rodders still drop the 1st "break in" oil at 500 as that's what ya did on garage engine rebuilds and restorations.

also, if i remember my father correctly, classic muscle when purchased new recommended a 500 mile "break in" oil drop as well.

i made it to 1000 miles with the 5th gen and couldn't take it anymore (dreams of metal shavings). i took her to my local dealer and they did it right there with me watching. nobody drove it but the manager and he made any techs near it wear gloves.....

they also checked everything else out and made sure she was all good! i saw the oil drop and know sleep better at nite! $84.01 for 7.8qts of Mobil1, peice of mind and a good nites sleep...........priceless..

ps - know, i get in the throttle a little harder......still being nice though..

I understand what you are saying bout sorry this aint the 50's 60's or 70's anymore man. Tech is so advanced now and materials are so much better now all those parnoid precaution are void now. Man cars are a different breed now so stop thinking rules 60 years ago apply to today's cars.

[BrianGriffin78]

Originally Posted by ssump29

It is what it is, but when you got nice cars like this I rather overpay and have it done right and feel safe then be cheap and worry about the performance of my car later down the line.

And once again why the hell is this guy trying to change his oil after 500 miles, he does know that the computer gives him an engine oil life right.

Going to a GM dealer I don't think it is crazy. It's obvious we are going to pay more. But changing after only 500 miles? I was a little skeptical to change it at 1500 and was going to wait till over 2000 miles but I am taking the car down on vacation this weekend so wanted to take care of it now.

[GoldFire]

Okay well I guess I will wait then. Pretty much all the threads I had read had said to get it changed at 500 and 1500, so I assumed that was the norm.

[Mr_Draco]

Originally Posted by ssump29

Why do you think you need to get an oil change after 500 miles? Stop listening to everything you hear around here because a lot people just talk thrash and don't know what they are talking about. Yoy don't need to change the oil and when you do go to the dealership as no other people will have any info on this car since its so new and not a lot around.

You do the first oil change at 500 to get rid of the majority metallic flakes out of the engine from the machining process and again around 1,500-2,000 mile mark to get the rest. Every mechanic I've talked to and the GM tech's at my 2 local dealerships say to do this. One the dealerships will do these two for just the cost of labor which is $10 because they tell everyone to do this.

[GoldFire]

Originally Posted by Mr_Draco

You do the first oil change at 500 to get rid of the majority metallic flakes out of the engine from the machining process and again around 1,500-2,000 mile mark to get the rest. Every mechanic I've talked to and the GM tech's at my 2 local dealerships say to do this. One the dealerships will do these two for just the cost of labor which is $10 because they tell everyone to do this.

Lol see this is why I was asking. This is so confusing, constantly conflicting reports. Hmm, what to do...what to do...

[patriotpa]

The car will tell you when it wants new oil. Listen to it.

[ssump29]

those flakes and everything else burn out, thats why for the first 500 miles you smell that burning smell. It gets burned out of the oil early on. Just because someone at the dealership said do it doesn't make it true. Because my dealership didn't recommend this so what are you saying that your dealer is smarter then everyone else.

I got a 2005 GTO brand new off the lot in 05 and didn't change the oil until it needed to be and never had a problem so why would this LS engine be any different? It's people being parnoid is the problem.

[3BVert]

Irregardless of the 500, 1500 mile debate... To answer the original question, why not do the oil change yourself? I'm certainly no mechanic, but I've done every oil change on our C5. I just can't bear the thought of it going "behind closed doors" for service unless it's absolutely necessary. If you're not a DYI type of person... personally, I'd bite the bullet and take it to the dealer.

[GoldFire]

Originally Posted by 3BVert

Irregardless of the 500, 1500 mile debate... To answer the original question, why not do the oil change yourself? I'm certainly no mechanic, but I've done every oil change on our C5. I just can't bear the thought of it going "behind closed doors" for service unless it's absolutely necessary. If you're not a DYI type of person... personally, I'd bite the bullet and take it to the dealer.

Well basically because I've never done it before and I would rather not practice on my brand new Camaro.

[JohnnyBfromPeoria]

ssump29, just how do you get metal shavings "burning off" from engine oil that's quite a bit cooler than the melting/burning point of the metal itself?

It will hurt NOTHING to change your oil early. Use the recommended Mobil 1 and a GM filter (or Purolator Pure 1 or NAPA Gold).

Who's going to challenge that "new tech" engines do not shed metal particles at first? The engine stlll gets hot, right? Part of the reason why is friction. And newly machined parts (and I don't care how close toleranced the parts are) don"t fit together as well as ones that have been working against each other for some time. There will be metal in the oil at first. There will be metal in your transmission, too, both manual and automatic.

The engine monitor is fine to rely on after break-in. It does not make any allowance for the "break-in" period.

If money isn't a concern, I'd be loading my engine up pretty good right away and letting there be a healthy dose of engine braking, and changing my oil at 100 miles. I'd also install a magnetic drain plug at that time. Next change at 1000 miles, then revert to letting the oil monitor tell me when to do it again.

The oil filter is a cartridge on the V-6 (don't know about the V-8's). I'd be very interested to have a look at one after only 100 initial miles, as any significant debris would be easy to spot. Flame me if you want, but I'd also wager you'd be impressed with my service records and regimen if you were looking to buy my car with 100,000 miles on it.

John B.

[2010SSRS]

Originally Posted by JohnnyBfromPeoria

ssump29, just how do you get metal shavings "burning off" from engine oil that's quite a bit cooler than the melting/burning point of the metal itself?

It will hurt NOTHING to change your oil early. Use the recommended Mobil 1 and a GM filter (or Purolator Pure 1 or NAPA Gold).

Who's going to challenge that "new tech" engines do not shed metal particles at first? The engine stlll gets hot, right? Part of the reason why is friction. And newly machined parts (and I don't care how close toleranced the parts are) don"t fit together as well as ones that have been working against each other for some time. There will be metal in the oil at first. There will be metal in your transmission, too, both manual and automatic.

The engine monitor is fine to rely on after break-in. It does not make any allowance for the "break-in" period.

If money isn't a concern, I'd be loading my engine up pretty good right away and letting there be a healthy dose of engine braking, and changing my oil at 100 miles. I'd also install a magnetic drain plug at that time. Next change at 1000 miles, then revert to letting the oil monitor tell me when to do it again.

The oil filter is a cartridge on the V-6 (don't know about the V-8's). I'd be very interested to have a look at one after only 100 initial miles, as any significant debris would be easy to spot. Flame me if you want, but I'd also wager you'd be impressed with my service records and regimen if you were looking to buy my car with 100,000 miles on it.

John B.

as i stated before.........$84.01 peice of mind...

[2010SSRS]

Originally Posted by ssump29

I understand what you are saying bout sorry this aint the 50's 60's or 70's anymore man. Tech is so advanced now and materials are so much better now all those parnoid precaution are void now. Man cars are a different breed now so stop thinking rules 60 years ago apply to today's cars.

if i listened to you, then a 1500 mile break-in period isn't needed either right? because "Tech is so advanced now" and "Cars are a different breed now".

not to bust ur balls man, but with my $36975 toy......better safe than sorry.

and by the way, i'm only 36. any "real" car guy, builder, engine tuner, etc will tell you to drop the oil early.

as for the post stating 5000 mile oil changes.......no way. every 3 months/3000 miles (whichever comes first). this isn't a Cobalt ecotec 4 banger......it's a high performance machine (V6 or V8).

[DarrenJ]

Originally Posted by GoldFire

Well basically because I've never done it before and I would rather not practice on my brand new Camaro.

A 15 MM wrench, oil filter wrench, rags, 8 QTS of Mobil 1 EP and a K&N oil filter for round 2 and you'll be ready to go - oh, and a good drain pan...