07-12-2010, 04:46 PM | #1 |
Drives: "Sergeant" a 1LT/SIM/RS/CONN/BA/M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Montreal
Posts: 203
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question regarding install of Eibach springs
The strut tower ends seem to be out more on the ends after my eibach install.....Even more soo when i turn the wheels is this normal?
Wheels straight Wheels turned left left strut tower. Is all this play normal after drop springs? |
07-12-2010, 05:18 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro LS Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 291
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I just went out and checked and my stock springs do the same thing.
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07-12-2010, 05:22 PM | #3 |
Drives: "Sergeant" a 1LT/SIM/RS/CONN/BA/M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
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07-12-2010, 05:39 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro LS Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Chesapeake, VA
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07-12-2010, 06:06 PM | #5 |
Drives: "Sergeant" a 1LT/SIM/RS/CONN/BA/M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
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07-28-2010, 11:24 AM | #6 |
Drives: "Sergeant" a 1LT/SIM/RS/CONN/BA/M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
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Anyone else have an opinion is this a good install or need to take it back!?
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07-29-2010, 05:01 PM | #7 | |
Drives: 2010 1SS Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
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Quote:
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07-31-2010, 05:10 PM | #8 |
Drives: "Sergeant" a 1LT/SIM/RS/CONN/BA/M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
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08-04-2010, 10:17 AM | #9 |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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The ZETA II Camaro is derived from the ZETA G8. The ZETA G8 is derived from the VZ Pontiac GTO. All are Holden based GM platforms. The earlier versions through the G8 used a rubber donut for the strut mount. Driven hard they wore out quickly. The ZETA II Camaro use a steel 'cake pan' covered in rubber with fiber reinforced plastic bearing plates and spring perch. The ZETA II mount will not suffer the same wear issues the earlier version mounts did.
The articulation you can see through the movement of the strut retaining plate is required to prevent the front suspension from binding when the wheels are turned. It also graphically illustrates why the Camaro does not require massive amounts of front camber. As the wheels turn camber increases due to the position of the strut shaft in the upper mount. |
08-04-2010, 10:28 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 RY 2SS with Custom Stripes Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Jennings, La.
Posts: 2,220
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Is cutting the bump stops the correct way to get the softest ride after installing 1" drop springs??
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08-04-2010, 10:38 AM | #11 |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
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I cringe when i hear cut the bumpstops. That means we are getting closer to the bottom of the strut on full compression and closer to possible damage of the foot valve. I am sure that the company did research this and think they are within the safe zone. That said, the OE safe zone is based on a full OE size bumpstop. The other issue you get into when you cut a bumpstop is coil fatigue. The more you fully scrag, fully compress a spring the faster the coil will fatigue and lose ride height. A good portion of our business in the GTO, HHR. Cobalt, Solstice. G8. Charger. Magnum, Challenger... markets is replacing whatever brand coils that have sighed so far the ride quality suffers from coils bind. Our solution is simple. Install NEW OE bumpstops that are not cut and replace the sagged coils with Pedders.
On second thought, EVERYONE should cut their bumpstops today!!!! |
08-04-2010, 10:43 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 RY 2SS with Custom Stripes Join Date: Mar 2009
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Thanks JusticePete, Hey Brett and someone with Eibach, what is your take on this to have the softest ride?
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08-04-2010, 11:34 AM | #13 |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
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Coil bounce comes from uneven preloads in the bushes.
Think of it this way. If you removed your lower front control arm and set it in a vice by clamping down hard on the steel ferule bonded to the rubber bush would it hold straight. The answer would be yes. Is the jaws grip the ferule as tight as the bolt on the car you can raise of lower the arm, but with resistance. When you release it, it will spring back to where it was before you twisted the rubber around the ferule. That is why bushes must be timed to ride height. Take your car to the alignment shop. Have the tech loosen every rotational bolt / bush in the suspension. Drive the car SLOWLY and CAREFULLY around the lot with the bolts a couple of turns loose. Put it back on the alignment lift. Without taking any weight off the wheels, tighten all the bolts. All the bushes are now timed to your new lowered ride height. This is how you do the job right and GET THE BEST RIDE. |
08-04-2010, 02:03 PM | #14 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro, 2006 Z06 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SLC, UT
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Quote:
The Pfadt lowering kit provides a 1.25" drop from OE height (appx). I do not know the install procedure for any other brands that have 1" drop springs, or their spring rates. Because of the spring rate we have chosen, and as a result of this change in static ride height, the usable region of the damper travel is offset, to be approximately 1.25" lower. The Camaro has a very limited amount of bump travel to begin with, before contacting the OEM bumpstops. We recommend to trim 1" from the bumpstop in our installation procedure to give you back that 1.00" of damper travel, that is not influenced by the added spring rate of the bump rubber. This is a "just in case" scenario for bit hits. We leave some bump stop in place to give a rising rate on big hits. Because dampers function by resisting the shaft velocity, this offset operating region has no negative effects on the component durability, or performance or fatigue. It just isn't a problem at all. Nor will this have any effect on coil fatigue with a properly manufacturers spring. This conclusion was made from testing, and experiencing harsh bump characteristics that some here have mentioned on the forum, who have not cut them. This of course, is just our position in regards to our own product installation. This is what makes a soft ride. Re-timing the bushings is also a great suggestion if there are any concerns in ride quality to begin with. |
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