Looking to make 400 RWHP as simply as possible

[The_Blur]

Originally Posted by Sesiom Summers

mmm accordion to all of you guys... there must be something wrong w my LS1... because I install

• Intake: up to 10rwhp
• Headers: up to 25rwhp
• High-Flow Cats: up to 5rwhp
• Catback Exhaust: up to 15rwhp

so its supposed to have 355 rwhp? but I only have 321.22rwhp and 318 tor and even I tune it?... :S I did the dyno today at florida central turbo I think I make a new topic about this because I really need help :(

Stock numbers are not measured at the wheels. They are generally measured for just the engine without the parasitic loss of the drivetrain.

[demonspeed]

Originally Posted by The_Blur

Stock numbers are not measured at the wheels. They are generally measured for just the engine without the parasitic loss of the drivetrain.

He's using the numbers you quoted in your first reply to come to 355 with an assumption that his car made 300rwhp stock. His logic is sound; however, we know that different cars, different days, different dynos... can create variances. He's also an auto, so it's going to dyno lower anyway.

[Dukeboy01]

Originally Posted by Zabo

RATO bottle.

Aka strap Three (3) K-Class Rocket motors (290lbs of thrust a piece) to the roof with jack straps.

I suspect that will definitely accelerate my car's depreciation... most likely directly into the nearest fixed object.

[Zabo]

Originally Posted by Dukeboy01

I suspect that will definitely accelerate my car's depreciation... most likely directly into the nearest fixed object.

*pulls camshaft from a twisted hulk of LS1 Camaro*

Well there's yer problem! /Adam Savage

[Dukeboy01]

Well, the journey has begun. I installed my SLP airlid this afternoon. I figured it would take about an hour, which turned into almost three hours wrestling the MAF sensor into the lid's neck. What a pain in the nads. Heating up the plastic with a hairdryer as the install instructions suggested helped some, but not as much as some gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet finally did.

It passed the seat- of- my- pants test.

[Lee0123567]

You may want to get a little more experience before you try anything crazy if you having trouble with a MAF..

[demonspeed]

Originally Posted by Lee0123567

You may want to get a little more experience before you try anything crazy if you having trouble with a MAF..

It's a VERY tight fit into the SLP lid. Compared to the old TSP lids I used to run, SLP lids seem made out of a better plastic that doesn't seem to warp or give very much. Hence, it's a *very* snug fit for the MAF.

[Scrappy Doo]

Originally Posted by demonspeed

It's a VERY tight fit into the SLP lid. Compared to the old TSP lids I used to run, SLP lids seem made out of a better plastic that doesn't seem to warp or give very much. Hence, it's a *very* snug fit for the MAF.

Yes. I did my slp lid back in September and there was more than a few 4 letter words said during the install.....

[Dukeboy01]

Tight doesn't even begin to describe it. I was half- convinced they had sent me the wrong part for awhile yesterday afternoon.

[Ken_]

With any car that one would want to extract power out of, it is always the smart, easy money to concentrate on the suspension and handling prior to adding power. I think you would be amazed at what replacing all of your OEM bushings with polyurethane will do in the feel, as well as an upgraded front and rear sway bar as well as upgraded shocks and springs. I think that with that combo of aftermarket bushings, upgraded front and rear sway bars and shocks/springs, you'll find your current HP numbers feeling like they've increased. In reality, all you are doing is helping things out by getting the energy channeled to where it needs to go- to the rear wheels, without wasting energy in chassis unloading and loading.

In fact, you may aggravate a problem by adding power to the engine before addressing the suspension and handling.

I've done suspension and handling first with every car I have owned. To make a point, I had a bonestock 4G63T swapped into a Mitsubishi Colt. I was making 250-ish at the wheel in an FWD configuration. I was eating up guys in 4th Gen LS-equipped bonestock Camaros on the 1320. As I said, bonestock 4G63T, but I had reworked the whole suspension with the stuff I mentioned before. Sure, power to weight ratio did factor in a little, but in relation, the power to weight ratio was pretty even in comparison to the Camaro. I can honestly say that dialing in low 13 passes was attributed to a solid suspension set-up. Had the guys in the Camaros did the same, I think I would have had a run for my money.

This was all six years ago. When and if I do decide to take my 5th Gen racing, you can best believe before I do anything, it will be the suspension and handling before adding power.

Anyway, just my 2 cents.

Oh! You have a T-top? You definitely will have some chassis flex. I am willing to bet some sub-frame connectors down below would work some wonders. Remember, all of our current cars are unibody, which equates to a uni-spring.

[WHAMMO]

This is the best quote about modding;

Originally Posted by The_Blur

The resale value on those cars isn't great right now. Don't worry about losing money. We're in the business of losing money just because we're car guys. We can't help it. If you think you're going to be able to sell those parts for good money after driving on them for a while, look forward to that disappointment. [/LIST]

Soooo, in the best order, do the following;
-intake(done)
-ported TB
-Full exhaust/tune(be very picky if youre chasing a number, every little hp counts)
-Suspension
-9 inch(yes, my worst mistake has to be this one, but since I dont live in the US and have to pay 6K$ for it, I never did it)
-Heads/Cam(set your goals and make it happen at the same time) OR buy a 408/418/4xx STROKER(youre gonna end up spending that much money anyway)
-150hp shot of Nitrous
-Destroy 95% of the car on the streets

When this list its going to be done, either youre gonna regret it and tell yourself you should have saved your money for a C6/C6 Z or still be happy as beeing poor in a fbody mean as hell!! hahaha

[speedmon]

400@wheels with LS1?

LS6 heads, a cam and a tune...$$$$? $2K

But.....I would recommend starting with gears and a trans tune.
411 gears and a tuned 4L60E will snap your head off...<$1K.
It'll feel like you have 500@wheels.