Looking to make 400 RWHP as simply as possible

[Dukeboy01]

I'm looking for some ideas and advice on how to best go about modding my 2002 SS. I've had the car for a little over two years now and I'm finally making a little extra cash that I can start putting into performance mods. I'm not looking to build some 1,000 hp drag monster, but I'd like to bump my car's performance up to where it can surprise a 5th gen or a stock C5 at a stop light.

Right now the car is a stock LS1 (duh) with the 4 speed auto. My goal is for the car to make over 400 rwhp by the time all is said and done. The only performance mods so far are a K&N air filter added by the original owner and I have a SLP airlid ordered that should arrive this week.

My criteria are:

1. I have to be able to return the car to stock.
2. I want a naturally aspirated motor. No superchargers, turbos, or nitrous.
3. I want to do as much of the work myself as I can. What that means as a practical matter is that I'm going to be limited to stuff that can be accomplished in a garage with handtools and jackstands.

I realize that this isn't going to be the most exciting build. In the grand scheme of things, it's going to be pretty mild. I'm not looking to sacrifice reliability or street performance so that I can run a 10 second pass on a dragstrip. After I'm satisfied with the power, I may look to start a similar suspension and handling thread. I'm basically looking to polish on the inherent stregths and performance of the LS1. My basic plan (inasmuch as there is a plan) is to start at the front of the car (engine) and work my way to the back (exhaust).

So, where would you guys start and what parts would you recommend? Testimonials as to personal experience with certain brands or specific parts are appreciated. If you've tried a certain part and it blew up on you, I'd like to know about it and learn from your experiences.

[demonspeed]

You can do it with bolt-ons and a cam, but the cam may be a bit more aggressive than you may be looking to live with.

Otherwise, you'll need to get a heads/cam combo. A well-matched set will easily get you that number.

Definitely start with full bolt-ons (lid, ported throttle body, crank pulley, long tubes, and either a cutout, 3.5/4" catback or 3" duals).

Peruse LS1tech and get lost in the endless variety. Look through www.texasspeed.com www.ls1speed.com and www.thunderracing.com for ideas. There are PLENTY of other vendors, but those can at least get you in the right direction.

[Russo]

buy a $300 cam and a $400 tuner..

[dmginc]

you are not going to make 400hp at the wheels and be able to return car to stock...at least not easily. and you probably dont want to do a cam yourself if you have never done one before, you cant toast a motor real fast if it is not done right. if you are going to mod the car to make 400+ hp at the wheels, forget about ever returning it to stock.

[The_Blur]

The LS1 is a great platform. I've got one, and I love it. I do have a couple of questions I'd like you to ask yourself before you go this route just to make sure your heart's in the right place.

Where did this plan for 400 rwhp originate? If your car had less horsepower but better drag times, would that make you happy? What are your goals for performance off the dyno?

A lot of people get hooked on numbers. If you want big power, that's nice, but a lot of people build big engines with big mods and fail to connect with the road.

That brings me to my second question. If you're wanting to go faster, focus on the suspension, too. That car already has a lot of power, and it doesn't weigh nearly as much as a 5thgen. If you can tighten up your suspension, you should be able to put down better numbers without doing anything for power.

Lastly, what do you really want to accomplish? Are you trying to tell people you have 400 horses or are you trying to beat them? That's what my last question is trying to ask. If you want a dyno queen, it is possible to build it from the LS1. Your criteria might need a little work, though.

You're a member of Camaro5, the biggest and best Camaro site on the Internet, and you know what you can accomplish with bolt-ons. There isn't a magic bolt-on that's going to give you the extra horses you need to break 400 rwhp.

You could probably do these installs without significant help as long as you have a lift and a good friend or two:

• Stock: about 300rwhp
• Intake: up to 10rwhp
• Throttlebody: up to 5rwhp
• Heads: up to 15rwhp
• Headers: up to 25rwhp
• High-Flow Cats: up to 5rwhp
• Catback Exhaust: up to 15rwhp

Doing the math, the most you can accomplish with this combination is 390. These are conservative numbers, and you would absolutely need a good tune to get them.

The next question I have is also important. Why do you want to bring it back to stock after you build it? You don't have to answer, but at least ask yourself why this is important. For a lot of people, the idea of reselling the car with all their parts is an issue. They're going to lose a lot of money, and they'd rather pretend that they didn't mod the car before it either blows up or goes up for sale. The resale value on those cars isn't great right now. Don't worry about losing money. We're in the business of losing money just because we're car guys. We can't help it. If you think you're going to be able to sell those parts for good money after driving on them for a while, look forward to that disappointment. You'll get something, but it won't cover the same mods on your next car. It's also a lot of work to remove these parts and store your stock components, which may not be in great shape upon reinstalling them.

If you're serious about the performance and not just the dyno, also consider upgrading using the following suspension components:

• Control Arms
• Strut Tower Brace
• Sub-Frame Connectors
• Coilovers

These suspension parts should be fairly easy to install, and you should get better performance out of the power you already have.

In addition, I'd consider some more permanent improvements. Like I said, dyno numbers are just on paper. How embarrassing would it be to boast about reaching 400rwhp only to lose to someone with only 375rwhp at the track? Try some things that might give you better times:

• Torque Converter
• Shift Kit
• Gear Upgrade

I still haven't put you over 400rwhp, but a car with this build is going to be fast. If you really have to break that 400 mark, you're going to need to go deeper, and these parts aren't cheap and easy:

• Camshaft
• Forced Induction

[demonspeed]

I think there is too much "scared" being thrown into this thread in reference to a cam swap.

400rwhp is not difficult with a LS1. One either does it cam-only or heads and cam. That's it. Both are reliable combinations; however, if one does it cam-only, it needs to be a bit aggressive.

If one wants to put the vehicle back to stock, then all they need to do is keep the stock parts. Nothing is irreversible in making those numbers.

[Brian 1LE SS]

Intake, headers, cam, heads and a tune will get you there.

[Dukeboy01]

Thanks for the replies. Upon further reflection, being able to go back to stock is not really that important. I'm planning to keep this car, so I'm not really concerned about resale value. So scratch that criteria.

As for the question of why 400 RWHP, I don't know. It's a nice, round number that I figured would be realistically obtainable without a supercharger or nitrous. The L99 in the 5th gen is rated at 400 hp at the crank, so aiming for 400 at the wheels seemed like a "good" benchmark if I wanted to sneak up on unsuspecting 5th gens.

This is going to be a longer term project, buying and adding on pieces and parts as I have a few bucks here and there. I guess my "plan," such as it is, is to start with the easy parts first and build up to the more complex and expensive stuff.

My SLP lid came in this afternoon. As I was looking at it and going over the installation instructions, I realized that in order to install it, I would be pulling off most of the stuff I would have to take off in order to get to the MAF sensor assembly, so I thought I'd go ahead and replace the stock unit with a high flow unit of some kind. If I have that pulled off, then I'm almost to the throttle body, so I'd do a ported throttle body as well. That's probably a good Saturday afternoon's work for me.

The trick is to not get too far ahead of myself.

[KamaroKid9614]

simply a cam and full bolt ons no need for all the extras (along with suspension mods of course)

[demonspeed]

You'll be wasting your money on the MAF at that level. I would take the money you'd spend on a new MAF and buy a pulley.

[Zabo]

RATO bottle.

Aka strap Three (3) K-Class Rocket motors (290lbs of thrust a piece) to the roof with jack straps.

[dmginc]

Originally Posted by Zabo

RATO bottle.

Aka strap Three (3) K-Class Rocket motors (290lbs of thrust a piece) to the roof with jack straps.

[demonspeed]

Or what Zabo said. He should know -- he wurkz on pwanes.

[Sesiom Summers]

mmm accordion to all of you guys... there must be something wrong w my LS1... because I install

• Intake: up to 10rwhp
• Headers: up to 25rwhp
• High-Flow Cats: up to 5rwhp
• Catback Exhaust: up to 15rwhp

so its supposed to have 355 rwhp? but I only have 321.22rwhp and 318 tor and even I tune it?... :S I did the dyno today at florida central turbo I think I make a new topic about this because I really need help :(