01-29-2013, 09:01 AM | #155 |
Drives: '16 2SS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Chicago Suburbs
Posts: 2,271
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Make sure that those resistors are "floating" in the box. If they touch the walls, they will melt them.
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01-29-2013, 09:03 AM | #156 |
Drives: 2013 Crystal Red Convertible RS Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Fairview, Texas
Posts: 276
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Is it the type he chose or can you get something that won't cause a heat issue?
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01-29-2013, 09:22 AM | #157 |
Drives: '16 2SS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Chicago Suburbs
Posts: 2,271
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We have them with an aluminum heatsink which helps dissipate the heat.
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01-29-2013, 10:28 AM | #158 |
Drives: IOM 2013 2SS/RS, Greenie, 06 FXSTBi Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Turd Town, WI
Posts: 1,583
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While i appreciate the efforts of all involved here, this DIY seems to have gone from cheap and easy to something else. Anyone else been following this thread that is more confused than ever? I love the look but don't have time for three or four attempts and trip to Radio Shack.
The only solution that seems easy now is LED's on the inner bulb only. sjm, what is involved with that method? I'm under the impression you can't simply swap bulbs without creating an issue... |
01-29-2013, 10:29 AM | #159 | |
Drives: 2013 Crystal Red Convertible RS Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Fairview, Texas
Posts: 276
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Quote:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/put-230004a/overview/
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01-29-2013, 10:49 AM | #160 |
Drives: '16 2SS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Chicago Suburbs
Posts: 2,271
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Just a bulb swap with the addition of a load resistor at each inner.
Exactly like that. |
01-29-2013, 10:51 AM | #161 |
crazier than a coconut
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: virginia
Posts: 1,547
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patience young grasshoppa.
stuff like this always takes a little time to get nailed down with R&D. this is a kick ass mod, so who wants to wait? i don't! but since its still being "developed"...its going to cost a little to initially get all the bugs worked out. in the end, it will still be cheaper than aftermarket and you'll have the pleasure of saying "yup, i did it myself. thanks camaro5."
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01-29-2013, 10:51 AM | #162 |
Drives: IOM 2013 2SS/RS, Greenie, 06 FXSTBi Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Turd Town, WI
Posts: 1,583
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01-29-2013, 11:00 AM | #163 |
Drives: 2013 1LT RS Crystal Red Tintcoat Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Alice, TX
Posts: 41
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How much time & $$$ does it take? Do you have to cut & splice original factory harness? I belive that in my opinion I would just plug & play a pre-made harness to keep the factory harness original & a piece of mind of a possible electical short
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Smiley....2013 1LT RS Crystal Red Tintcoat
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01-29-2013, 11:31 AM | #164 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 183
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On the set up i have now I only spent about 20 bucks. Add an extra 10 for the relays that i didnt have to buy and you got about 30 bucks. I havnt bought load resistors yet but total project should cost less than 50 bucks. If you purchase parts online you will also save some cash. It took me about an hour per circuit to build plus 20 min or so to install. Yes you cut the factory harness but its just wires.... nothing that is extremely dangerous to cut. Long as you solder the connections and heat shrink it there will be no shorts. This project is for a DIY person with mechanical and electrical experience. If you dont know the diff between positive and negative, etc, DONT try this... This design is better IMO than ones you buy because you can tweak the delay and make it perfect and this one seems to delay more than the ones you buy.
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS, L99, OBX Longtube Headers, Magnaflow 3in Comp Cat Back w/ added Dynomax Bullet Race Mufflers, SCT Tuner w/ JRE Tune, CAI Black Intake w/ JRE Race Scoop, Eibach Pro Springs, Custom Sequential Tailights
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01-29-2013, 11:32 AM | #165 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 183
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Quote:
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2010 Camaro 2SS/RS, L99, OBX Longtube Headers, Magnaflow 3in Comp Cat Back w/ added Dynomax Bullet Race Mufflers, SCT Tuner w/ JRE Tune, CAI Black Intake w/ JRE Race Scoop, Eibach Pro Springs, Custom Sequential Tailights
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01-29-2013, 11:50 AM | #166 |
HT5 COTW 1/21/13
Drives: 2010 Camaro Inferno 2SS RS 6M Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Pleasant Hill, Or
Posts: 2,486
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I really like DIY threads like this. It is cool to see everyone come together and work the bugs out keep up the great work
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01-29-2013, 01:01 PM | #167 |
Drives: 2011 Automatic Camaro 2SS Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Clearwater, FL
Posts: 110
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So it's already been half a day and I've driven on four separate occasions this morning and only one time did I get the check rear bulb message and that was just a few minutes after I started driving for the first time today so I'm pretty confident it was just a fluke and this set up works. I'll post another update later tonight but like I said I'm pretty sure everything will be fine and that one time was just a fluke.
Thanks, I wasn't even thinking about that since I was just trying to get it done! After all I finished at 12:45 and had to wake up today at 6:30! I think I have some really thick heat shrink that I used when covering the Electronic Speed Controllers on the tri-copter my brother and I built that should fit around the resistors and contain the heat. |
01-29-2013, 01:37 PM | #168 |
crazier than a coconut
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: virginia
Posts: 1,547
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having such a high wattage rating on the resistors is because they dissipate heat. you don't want to contain more heat with them than necessary. it will cause them to break down sooner and stop working properly. thermal paste and some flashing will help distribute the heat which is better than containing it.
hope that helps.
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