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Old 08-01-2016, 09:24 AM   #15
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Agreed. I'd check em at 10k miles. I'd also check em after the first day or two. Just as a self check as much as anything. We do have shaft mounts here but I really look forward to seeing guys run them with stock rockers.
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:19 PM   #16
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Will a solid roller cam make more power than hydraulic roller? (Solid roller noob here)
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:23 PM   #17
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2 months ago I'd have hit you up about this. Ended up changing tsp cam for bigger GPI cam
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Old 08-01-2016, 11:27 PM   #18
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Will a solid roller cam make more power than hydraulic roller? (Solid roller noob here)
Watch the video link Bo pasted in. It explains very well what the pros/cons are. Engine Masters are a cool crew, and I love their videos!
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Old 08-02-2016, 07:21 AM   #19
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Will a solid roller cam make more power than hydraulic roller? (Solid roller noob here)
Basically you can get a few ponys, at a much larger cost, and higher maintenance. Great for race cars, but arguable for a street car. The $1800+ you save can easily be put elsewhere to make WAY more power.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:00 AM   #20
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Most guys are buying them and running with stock rocker arms. The TSP solid roller will cost no more than a hyd roller. The shims will be 15 bux and the lifters are a little bit more money but nothing crazy. All in less than $200 difference. If you want shaft mounts then give me a little time
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:07 AM   #21
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The throttle response you get from hyd to solid is amazing to me.
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:12 AM   #22
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Basically you can get a few ponys, at a much larger cost, and higher maintenance. Great for race cars, but arguable for a street car. The $1800+ you save can easily be put elsewhere to make WAY more power.
It can be less expensive than 1800 if you use the right parts. Sticking to stock rockers can save you 1-2 grand easily. You can get drop in LS7 style solid lifters for a decent price as well. For those who are replacing the lifters anyway due to deleting AFM or if they have a bad lifter it seems like a great option over going with hydraulic again.
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Old 08-02-2016, 01:43 PM   #23
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It can be less expensive than 1800 if you use the right parts. Sticking to stock rockers can save you 1-2 grand easily. You can get drop in LS7 style solid lifters for a decent price as well. For those who are replacing the lifters anyway due to deleting AFM or if they have a bad lifter it seems like a great option over going with hydraulic again.
Never seen or heard of stock rockers with a solid lifter. That would decrease the cost, but first I've heard of it.
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Old 08-02-2016, 01:49 PM   #24
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Never seen or heard of stock rockers with a solid lifter. That would decrease the cost, but first I've heard of it.
Some guys are shimming the stock rockers to get the right lash and having good results. One guy I read about cut the rocker arm mounting plate/bracket in half to have each bank of cylinders into twos, then placed shims under the plate/bracket to get the correct lash. Time consuming? Yes, also a major exercise in patience and math haha but the end result seems worth the work to be put in
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Old 01-20-2017, 11:39 PM   #25
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Some guys are shimming the stock rockers to get the right lash and having good results. One guy I read about cut the rocker arm mounting plate/bracket in half to have each bank of cylinders into twos, then placed shims under the plate/bracket to get the correct lash. Time consuming? Yes, also a major exercise in patience and math haha but the end result seems worth the work to be put in
This is what i did.. Update. 1 year and 15k miles on the LLSR setup stock rockers fine. .660 springs fine. Lash perfectly in spec @ .001-.002 cold as i set them. Side note. Solid lifters lead to oil pressure drop. Switched to Rotella 15-40 oil changes every 7k miles
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Old 01-21-2017, 12:02 AM   #26
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Did you put an oil restrictor in when you swapped to solid?
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