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Old 08-20-2014, 05:49 PM   #85
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So update on the leak testing. I got a much more powerful air compressor, and immediately it was clear the the silicone piping from the intercooler to the throttle body was not clamped properly. Upon fixing that, I can get 6 psi into the leak tester and it won't go past that, and I can hear a hissing noise from the left side of the intake manifold under the plenum (can't feel much air coming out though). I am guessing it is the iceolator spacer, because the two intake bolts on the left side at the top center of the plenum don't catch as well, so I probably need to get longer ones. But before that, I was wondering, Magnum, have you tested the difference between having the iceolator on and off? Because I might just keep the stock bolts and just remove the spacer if it's gonna cause me trouble in the future.
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Old 08-20-2014, 06:33 PM   #86
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So update on the leak testing. I got a much more powerful air compressor, and immediately it was clear the the silicone piping from the intercooler to the throttle body was not clamped properly. Upon fixing that, I can get 6 psi into the leak tester and it won't go past that, and I can hear a hissing noise from the left side of the intake manifold under the plenum (can't feel much air coming out though). I am guessing it is the iceolator spacer, because the two intake bolts on the left side at the top center of the plenum don't catch as well, so I probably need to get longer ones. But before that, I was wondering, Magnum, have you tested the difference between having the iceolator on and off? Because I might just keep the stock bolts and just remove the spacer if it's gonna cause me trouble in the future.
I removed mine, the closest test I did back to back with them the spacers were almost a half second slower, but it wasn't a controlled test.

Also, your plenum cover might be leaking at the OEM gasket, mine was, I removed the gasket and put RTV to seal it.
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:48 PM   #87
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I removed mine, the closest test I did back to back with them the spacers were almost a half second slower, but it wasn't a controlled test.

Also, your plenum cover might be leaking at the OEM gasket, mine was, I removed the gasket and put RTV to seal it.
Interesting, I'll look into that. You just put RTV around the perimeter of the gasket?

And so you think I should just remove the spacer? It seems like no one running IPF is having any benefit with them on.
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:13 PM   #88
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Interesting, I'll look into that. You just put RTV around the perimeter of the gasket?

And so you think I should just remove the spacer? It seems like no one running IPF is having any benefit with them on.
Remove the OEM gasket and put RTV where the gasket was.

I would, I think it might add some torque down low but it takes power away up in the high RPM band.
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Old 08-25-2014, 02:43 PM   #89
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Looks like I have been having too much fun with the supercharger. I was driving back home when for the first time the clutch pedal stuck to the floor. After I got it up the clutch would no longer engage and I couldn't shift it into gear. I got it towed and am waiting to hear the diagnosis. I am hoping its just the slave cylinder and that the clutch is not toast since I just put in a Spec Stage 1 2k miles ago ;(
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Old 09-02-2014, 10:14 PM   #90
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Did want to start a hole new thread for this . Does any body know where I can find a screw for the MAF. ? Are know the part number for screw ?Was removing my headlights and noticed a screw was missing
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Old 09-02-2014, 10:41 PM   #91
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No clue, never done it myself. May need to ask in general area of the forum.
The fitting you removed from your high pressure AC line is the connection for the high pressure cutout When you unscrewed the fitting it should of automatically resealed itself If you were very slow when removing it you would of lost a lot of refrigerant. ( lot of hissing for the entire time)
If as you said it hissed for only a second you should be fine
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Old 09-03-2014, 09:48 AM   #92
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Did want to start a hole new thread for this . Does any body know where I can find a screw for the MAF. ? Are know the part number for screw ?Was removing my headlights and noticed a screw was missing

LLT- 10-24 thread, 1/2 length

LFX- 8-32 Thread, 1/4" Length
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Old 09-03-2014, 01:20 PM   #93
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Thanks Alex
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:21 PM   #94
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Awesome thread guys, lots of great info on here! I'm trying to put another group buy together on these, so if you know anyone who is interested send them my way.

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Old 10-13-2014, 11:04 AM   #95
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IPF Supercharger FAQ

Magnum awesome write up. This answered a lot of unknowns that I was about to begin searching around. Always learning something new. Thanks!

PCV setup info: I'm currently running clean side straight to 1LE oil separator and plugged inlet on the manifold. Dirty side is routed stock but with a catch can w/ check valve and breather/pressure relief attached to the top of the can.

I'm looking at three concerns/questions for the upcoming winter:

1. Clean side oil separator being replaced with an elite catch can with a check valve

2. Any personal recommendations for an engine blanket or block heater? I will be seeing those 25 degree temps in NY

3. Any reason the dirty side catch can/breather/pressure relief combo would cause problem in the colder temps?

I have researched and understand the oil separator issue but my gut feeling tells me I should be worried about the breather on top of the catch can as well. Can't find much on it

Last edited by HeritageLS; 10-13-2014 at 11:28 AM. Reason: needed to add background info
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Old 10-13-2014, 11:53 AM   #96
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I believe the 1LE Clean side separator should be fine, don't think you will need to do a clean side catch can. Definitely don't put a check valve on it or else the crankcase won't be able to get fresh air.

No clue about engine block heaters, I'm in Oklahoma where if the temps drop below 40 degrees everything shuts down and a state of emergency is declared.

Mine didn't have problems in cold weather as long as the lines are not 20 feet long. That is a problem with the stock IPF setup, the lines were too long and went to the front of the car where it is cooler. If the catch can is in the engine bay it will be the same temp as the vapors coming out of the engine so no condensation will happen.
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Old 10-13-2014, 12:08 PM   #97
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I believe the 1LE Clean side separator should be fine, don't think you will need to do a clean side catch can. Definitely don't put a check valve on it or else the crankcase won't be able to get fresh air.

No clue about engine block heaters, I'm in Oklahoma where if the temps drop below 40 degrees everything shuts down and a state of emergency is declared.

Mine didn't have problems in cold weather as long as the lines are not 20 feet long. That is a problem with the stock IPF setup, the lines were too long and went to the front of the car where it is cooler. If the catch can is in the engine bay it will be the same temp as the vapors coming out of the engine so no condensation will happen.

lol practically a blizzard 2 years ago before a state of emergency was declared.

My concerns were that GM states not to use it under 32 degrees. My research showed a lot of BMWs running oil separators with the same issue. Once the car sat for a while and cooled it would ultimately cause sludge build up

The clean side catch can doesn't need a check valve to keep the flow only going into the intake? I have a check valve on the dirty side to prevent reverse flow under WOT. Did I have the wrong assumption for the clean line as well?

Last edited by HeritageLS; 10-13-2014 at 12:09 PM. Reason: grammar
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Old 10-13-2014, 12:51 PM   #98
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lol practically a blizzard 2 years ago before a state of emergency was declared.

My concerns were that GM states not to use it under 32 degrees. My research showed a lot of BMWs running oil separators with the same issue. Once the car sat for a while and cooled it would ultimately cause sludge build up

The clean side catch can doesn't need a check valve to keep the flow only going into the intake? I have a check valve on the dirty side to prevent reverse flow under WOT. Did I have the wrong assumption for the clean line as well?
The dirty side should have one to prevent air from the intake manifold from going into the catch can itself. Some people don't agree, but I believe in having 2 lines putting a vacuum on both sides of the valves, helps seal the piston rings up. My clean side catch can doesn't have a check valve, air goes both ways.
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