09-18-2017, 09:26 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 2LT Bumblebee Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 613
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Burning A Crazy Amount of Oil
So I've posted a bit about this before and have tried a lot of your guys' suggestions, but unfortunately my oil-burning problem is getting out-of-control. My old LLT spun a bearing at 50k miles because I wasn't filling up the oil fast enough as it burned (1/2 a quart a week). The used motor I replaced it with (has ~60k miles on it as of now) burns pretty much the same amount, but obviously I'm completely on top of it and always pour about 1/3 of a quart consistently every time I fill up on gas. The thing it I am just really worried that something will happen and more oil will burn than usual and next thing I know another engine replacement is needed. I am very desperate to do whatever I can besides swapping in another motor to mitigate the amount of oil burned. Spark plugs were changed less than 10k miles ago, I always check the PCV to make sure its clean, and I have a catch can.
I'm actually getting ready to do an oil change next weekend. I've had friends tell me they use certain oil brands on their oil-burning cars to combat it, can anyone attest to this that it works? Any oil brands that actually have higher burn temperatures that can help my issue somewhat? Thank in advance for any advice.
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10-08-2017, 04:08 PM | #2 |
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Have you checked for a leak? You are using an absurd amount of oil. If you are truly burning it the car should be smoking, at least when it starts. My 2011 LLT uses a quart in maybe 4000 miles.
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10-09-2017, 01:34 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2011 LS Camaro Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Miami
Posts: 566
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^same, i check 1-2 times a week before i drive out in the mornings. i tend to have to put in a quart after 3-4k miles if i don't have time to do an oil change
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10-11-2017, 09:01 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2010 2LT Bumblebee Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 613
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I never have seen any leaks in my driveway even after letting the car idle for a while. Whats the best way to check for oil leaks on these cars?
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10-12-2017, 11:35 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Denver
Posts: 1,381
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What catchcan do you have and how is it configured? Have you done the "drill mod" to the PCV barb on the rear of the passenger side valve cover? And at 60k miles, manual intake valve cleaning?
Let us know more and we can help you. |
10-14-2017, 08:46 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 2LT Bumblebee Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 613
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I have your catch can (collects bit but not much), regularly clean the PCV barb, but have not done manual intake valve cleaning. This is a junkyard engine i bought with it being at 55k miles, and I have put another 10k on it since. Is it recommended to have a professional do the valve cleaning? How much does it usually cost?
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10-15-2017, 06:45 PM | #7 |
Jan
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1LT Red Jewel tintcoat Join Date: May 2010
Location: Springfield, TN
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Lots of folks do it themselves. Depends on your skill level & comfort with doing it. I have not done it & would probably get mine professionally done or find a friend to help me. Just over my comfort level.
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10-15-2017, 10:59 PM | #8 |
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You can use a thicker weight oil to mitigate oil consumption. However, I would first try to find out why the used junkyard engine is using so much oil
How are you verifying the second engine had 55K miles when you bought it? Maybe it has 155k miles or even 255k miles. The PCV barb needs to be drilled out larger on the LLT and early LFX. Have you done that yet? After checking those things, I'd probably get a compression and leakdown test performed on it to determine the true health of the engine. |
10-16-2017, 08:15 PM | #9 |
Drives: 2010 2LT Bumblebee Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 613
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Thanks for the advice everyone. When I take out the PCV valve its usually not even close to clogged, but of course I run a wire through it anyway. Do you still think it would still make a difference to drill it larger anyway?
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10-17-2017, 09:36 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Denver
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Remove the barb and drill the bottom to 5/64" each, and top hole to 1/8".
Are you running our dual valve E2-X and cleanside unit? |
10-17-2017, 09:57 AM | #11 |
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My 89 truck had an oil leak that would only happen while driving, never dripped a bit on the ground but you could see where the oil had blown back on the underbody. It used a quart about ever 1,000 miles.
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10-18-2017, 06:54 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 2LT Bumblebee Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 613
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E2, but no cleansed. Would the drill mod still make a difference if the barb is never clogged when I check? Just curious.
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10-18-2017, 06:55 PM | #13 |
Drives: 2010 2LT Bumblebee Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Maryland
Posts: 613
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Interesting. I remember a while ago there used to be additives people would add to their oil to make it easy to spot a leak (the additive would make the oil look reflective or something iirc). Is that still a thing? I only ask because I did a quick check last time the car was jacked and didn't see anything. I'll definitely do a more thorough look this weekend.
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10-19-2017, 01:55 PM | #14 | |
Drives: 2011 Synergy Green 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2008
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Quote:
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