My clutch fluid reservoir

[1977and2010]

I found the fluid reservoir at my local junkyard for $5, it came with the bracket. It is from a 1992 Honda accord. It was much more difficult to find one that would work than I thought it would be. Just drilled a couple holes and used stainless self tapping screws, rerouted the clutch fluid line, filled it up, and capped the opening on the brake master and called it done. What you guys think?

[CBH]

How does the actuator (from the pedal) connect to the new master cylinder ? I understand the slave on the clutch itself would just attach via the same line, but unsure how the actuator attached to the existing combo master cylinder would attach to the new remote master reservoir.

[600hp-lpe]

Originally Posted by CBH

How does the actuator (from the pedal) connect to the new master cylinder ? I understand the slave on the clutch itself would just attach via the same line, but unsure how the actuator attached to the existing combo master cylinder would attach to the new remote master reservoir.

they are 2 seperate lines.

The part he just added connects to the pedal actuator.
There is another seperate line from the pedal actuator to the slave cylinder at the trans.

[1977and2010]

What he said. It is just a reservoir. Seperates the clutch and brake fluids. It should have been like that from the factory.

[clg_98ta]

Originally Posted by CBH

How does the actuator (from the pedal) connect to the new master cylinder ? I understand the slave on the clutch itself would just attach via the same line, but unsure how the actuator attached to the existing combo master cylinder would attach to the new remote master reservoir.

The stock reservoir has two lines - one to the brake master and the other to the clutch master. You're confusing master cylinder with fluid reservoir. He only added an additional reservoir. He disconnected the clutch master cylinder feed line from the combo reservoir and connected it to the new reservoir.

[mtcwby]

Originally Posted by 1977and2010

I found the fluid reservoir at my local junkyard for $5, it came with the bracket. It is from a 1992 Honda accord. It was much more difficult to find one that would work than I thought it would be. Just drilled a couple holes and used stainless self tapping screws, rerouted the clutch fluid line, filled it up, and capped the opening on the brake master and called it done. What you guys think?

Just keep an eye on the cap that you put on the nipple where the clutch line used to attach to the brake reservoir. The only caps I have been able to find have all been natural rubber and start to crack after a couple of months and have to be replaced.
If only we could find caps that are made of vinyl or butyl that wouldn't weather.

[jnm2003]

I plan on doing my clutch fluid reservoir as soon as I get a hold of one that will work for it!! Thanks for the info about the honda civic reservoir!!
I have a question tho about mine.. Ive been having problems with my clutch sticking to the floor and it not fully disengaging quick enough to allow descent shifts from 1st to second at high RPMS. I put super dot 4 fluid in it and its not nearly as bad as it was. But tonight i went to some street gatherings and ran 3 times against a friends car. Car 95% cooled down before my first race. 3 burnouts, 3 races. Well the clutch stuck to the floor on the second pass i made. After all 3 races and I get back home and lift the hood and see some drops of fluid around the top of the stock reservoir around the cap. couple more around underneath small splatter drops in random places. The reservoir was really warm also.
Is my clutch having problems bc the cap maybe isnt sealing all the way to the stock reservoir?.. and would this be my problem when sometimes my clutch doesnt fully disengage (notch feelings while shifting) even with daily driving. or is it bc its still boiling the fluid after burnouts and then racing.. since im using the brakes which use the clutch fluid which will warm it up and then racing also will. I still probably havnt got all the stock fluid out bc ive done a flush two seperate times so far with 4 bottles of super dot 4 total. (expensive). also i used the rangeracceleration technique and cleaned the gasket on the cap each time. so there most definitely is still some stock fluid in the lines bc i didnt bleed it all out or make enough flushes yet. Or is there another problem that would cause too much pressure in the lines to spew fluid through the cap even if it has a good seal? Could the cap be causing most of this and if so when i put the new separate reservoir should have a better sealing cap to not have this problem. Or is it another internal problem that the reservoir would help but sill not fix it and im still in this same situation.

[1977and2010]

Wow that was a tough read. Unfortunately I don't have an answer for you. I remember there was talk on here about leaking reservoir caps. I think there was even a TSB for it. Don't know what ever happened with that. I haven't experienced the sticking clutch yet, I have had the brakes do some weird things after some repeated hard launches and hard stops during autocrossing. That was my main reason for separating the fluids. That and I just don't think anything good can come from mixing the two other than GM saving a few bucks.

[Kilo-9]

Originally Posted by mtcwby

Just keep an eye on the cap that you put on the nipple where the clutch line used to attach to the brake reservoir. The only caps I have been able to find have all been natural rubber and start to crack after a couple of months and have to be replaced.
If only we could find caps that are made of vinyl or butyl that wouldn't weather.

Would the high-temp versions of these work?:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#vinyl-tube-caps/=6hl5d2

[mtcwby]

Originally Posted by jnm2003

I plan on doing my clutch fluid reservoir as soon as I get a hold of one that will work for it!! Thanks for the info about the honda civic reservoir!!
I have a question tho about mine.. Ive been having problems with my clutch sticking to the floor and it not fully disengaging quick enough to allow descent shifts from 1st to second at high RPMS. I put super dot 4 fluid in it and its not nearly as bad as it was. But tonight i went to some street gatherings and ran 3 times against a friends car. Car 95% cooled down before my first race. 3 burnouts, 3 races. Well the clutch stuck to the floor on the second pass i made. After all 3 races and I get back home and lift the hood and see some drops of fluid around the top of the stock reservoir around the cap. couple more around underneath small splatter drops in random places. The reservoir was really warm also.
Is my clutch having problems bc the cap maybe isnt sealing all the way to the stock reservoir?.. and would this be my problem when sometimes my clutch doesnt fully disengage (notch feelings while shifting) even with daily driving. or is it bc its still boiling the fluid after burnouts and then racing.. since im using the brakes which use the clutch fluid which will warm it up and then racing also will. I still probably havnt got all the stock fluid out bc ive done a flush two seperate times so far with 4 bottles of super dot 4 total. (expensive). also i used the rangeracceleration technique and cleaned the gasket on the cap each time. so there most definitely is still some stock fluid in the lines bc i didnt bleed it all out or make enough flushes yet. Or is there another problem that would cause too much pressure in the lines to spew fluid through the cap even if it has a good seal? Could the cap be causing most of this and if so when i put the new separate reservoir should have a better sealing cap to not have this problem. Or is it another internal problem that the reservoir would help but sill not fix it and im still in this same situation.

The leakage around the cap is just expansion and splash back. I found that the factory overfills the reservoir. I sucked out some fluid to lower the level to the seam where the top and bottom halves are bonded together and haven't had any fluid leak since. Separate the reservoirs and you will probably end your clutch problems. It will only take a couple of ounces of fluid to change the clutch fluid after it is separate.

Originally Posted by Kilo-9

Would the high-temp versions of these work?:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#vinyl-tube-caps/=6hl5d2

Thanks, I will order #84735K111 and try it out. Really don't need 100 of them though.

[Kilo-9]

Yeah, that's one catch about McMaster-Carr...sometimes the quantities are over-the-top! They really do have everything, though!

[Ace1USMC]

Wow! Thank you for this information! I'm starting my hunt for my 1992 Honda Accord fluid reservoir right now...

I really appreciate you guys that are willing to share your experience and knowledge with others. It's very cool.

Sam

[Squintz Palladoris]

Nice install,

Guys, keep in mind you can use just about any remote resevoir for this. This one from wilwood is about 20 bucks. To mount it in the same place as the OP mounted his would only require that you make a simple bracket.

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinde...emno=260-11098

[Smirnoff]

Originally Posted by jnm2003

I plan on doing my clutch fluid reservoir as soon as I get a hold of one that will work for it!! Thanks for the info about the honda civic reservoir!!
I have a question tho about mine.. Ive been having problems with my clutch sticking to the floor and it not fully disengaging quick enough to allow descent shifts from 1st to second at high RPMS. I put super dot 4 fluid in it and its not nearly as bad as it was. But tonight i went to some street gatherings and ran 3 times against a friends car. Car 95% cooled down before my first race. 3 burnouts, 3 races. Well the clutch stuck to the floor on the second pass i made. After all 3 races and I get back home and lift the hood and see some drops of fluid around the top of the stock reservoir around the cap. couple more around underneath small splatter drops in random places. The reservoir was really warm also.
Is my clutch having problems bc the cap maybe isnt sealing all the way to the stock reservoir?.. and would this be my problem when sometimes my clutch doesnt fully disengage (notch feelings while shifting) even with daily driving. or is it bc its still boiling the fluid after burnouts and then racing.. since im using the brakes which use the clutch fluid which will warm it up and then racing also will. I still probably havnt got all the stock fluid out bc ive done a flush two seperate times so far with 4 bottles of super dot 4 total. (expensive). also i used the rangeracceleration technique and cleaned the gasket on the cap each time. so there most definitely is still some stock fluid in the lines bc i didnt bleed it all out or make enough flushes yet. Or is there another problem that would cause too much pressure in the lines to spew fluid through the cap even if it has a good seal? Could the cap be causing most of this and if so when i put the new separate reservoir should have a better sealing cap to not have this problem. Or is it another internal problem that the reservoir would help but sill not fix it and im still in this same situation.

LPE has a clutch return spring that will assist your sticking problem.....