Change rear diff fluid today - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

TommyTSquared · 11-18-2010, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ironheadspearo

Can someone explain what is involved to change this? is there a drain plug and a fill plug or are we talking changing out a gasket?

Indeed... there is a plug!

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...72&postcount=2

Bonanza7 · 11-18-2010, 09:38 AM

There are two plugs. The upper one is for checking and filling, the lower one is for draining. Easy. I did not do it myself because the thing sits so low I couldn't get under it. Jacking it up makes it un-level, and that won't work right. The manual has a very good drawing of the diff and the plugs. Cost me $59 done by my service company. (Dealer would be a whole lot more, I suspect.) Took about 30 minutes for them to do it. Use the right fluid.

Ironheadspearo · 11-18-2010, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TommyTSquared

Indeed... there is a plug!

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...72&postcount=2

thanks alot, couple questions

1 do you tighten plugs snug like oil pan bolt? not too tight to strip but snug so it wont back out?

2 what do you use to pour in the new fluid? funnel with a hose? which i do not own.

TommyTSquared · 11-18-2010, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ironheadspearo

Can someone explain what is involved to change this? is there a drain plug and a fill plug or are we talking changing out a gasket?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ironheadspearo

thanks alot, couple questions

1 do you tighten plugs snug like oil pan bolt? not too tight to strip but snug so it wont back out?

2 what do you use to pour in the new fluid? funnel with a hose? which i do not own.

I honestly took mine to a guy that did our vehicles for the job I was working for at the time. I don't know the torque rating for them, but I wouldn't imagine it needs to be anything drastic - snug should do it.

Someone mentioned going to autozone or something and getting a tube that you can pump fluid with to help fill, otherwise you'd need to cram the bottle up and whatnot to get it to fill. I'm sure you could manage, but the hand-pump thing would be a lot less stress.

daphatgrant · 11-18-2010, 09:46 AM

The 1,500 change mark was listed but there was a side note like "only if intended for racing" or something like that.

*edit, I just went through the manual and while it does say that it should be changed every 6hrs of racing nowhere that I can find does it list 1,500 miles.

Rip · 11-18-2010, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ironheadspearo

thanks alot, couple questions

1 do you tighten plugs snug like oil pan bolt? not too tight to strip but snug so it wont back out?

2 what do you use to pour in the new fluid? funnel with a hose? which i do not own.

I believe the torque rating is 26 lbs.

The bottle has a small tip, you can just stick that in and squeeze until the whole quart is in. You don't need a funnel or a hose, that's for the tranny on manual. I changed mine last night. Backed it up on the ramps and it took around 5 minutes. Took a little longer for the transmission because I had to wait for the fluid to go all the way down the tubing.

BTW, the Royal Purple already has the additives required by GM.

Doc · 11-18-2010, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rip

I believe the torque rating is 26 lbs.

The bottle has a small tip, you can just stick that in and squeeze until the whole quart is in. You don't need a funnel or a hose, that's for the tranny on manual. I changed mine last night. Backed it up on the ramps and it took around 5 minutes. Took a little longer for the transmission because I had to wait for the fluid to go all the way down the tubing.

BTW, the Royal Purple already has the additives required by GM.

What were your impressions after driving it with RP in it?

2010 Bumblebee · 11-18-2010, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bonanza7

There are two plugs. The upper one is for checking and filling, the lower one is for draining. Easy. I did not do it myself because the thing sits so low I couldn't get under it. Jacking it up makes it un-level, and that won't work right. The manual has a very good drawing of the diff and the plugs. Cost me $59 done by my service company. (Dealer would be a whole lot more, I suspect.) Took about 30 minutes for them to do it. Use the right fluid.

My dealer quoted my $140 and I said it's a quart of fluid and it takes 15 minutes to do. They then changed the price to $66. That's not too far from your $59. You have to haggle with them because they will rip you off. I guess most diffs these days are on trucks and they hold 3 quarts so as soon as you ask them they think about the truck and assume the camaro will be the same.

Quote:

Originally Posted by daphatgrant

The 1,500 change mark was listed but there was a side note like "only if intended for racing" or something like that.

*edit, I just went through the manual and while it does say that it should be changed every 6hrs of racing nowhere that I can find does it list 1,500 miles.

It says if you are going to race it then change it after your 1500 mile break in and after every time you race it.

Rip · 11-18-2010, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doc

What were your impressions after driving it with RP in it?

Honestly, I couldn't tell any difference. I didn't use RP for the tranny, I used Mobile 1 synthetic ATF for that. Now that did make a noticeable difference in how smooth it feels when you shift.

burntOmaro · 11-18-2010, 10:34 AM

I picked up my 5 quarts of RP this week. Plan on changing out the tranny and rear diff this sat. I have 30K+ on mine... i'm anxious to see what sh!t comes out.

Dan@showstopper · 11-18-2010, 10:39 AM

I changed the rear end fluid with Amsoil severe gear and slip lock additive. I'm happy I did beacuse the fluid looked very metallic. Trans is next this spring.

v6sonoma · 11-18-2010, 10:45 AM

Royal Purple!

daphatgrant · 11-18-2010, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2010 Bumblebee

My dealer quoted my $140 and I said it's a quart of fluid and it takes 15 minutes to do. They then changed the price to $66. That's not too far from your $59. You have to haggle with them because they will rip you off. I guess most diffs these days are on trucks and they hold 3 quarts so as soon as you ask them they think about the truck and assume the camaro will be the same.

It says if you are going to race it then change it after your 1500 mile break in and after every time you race it.

Just curious where it says this, I believe you but this gets brought up a lot and I'd like to be able to point out where in the manual it states this next time it gets brought up.

Bonanza7 · 11-18-2010, 11:47 AM

I did mine, not because the manual says to, (I couldn't find 1,500 in mine either), but because others reported so much metal in theirs. I would just rather have good, clean fluid than take a chance and have the General claim it was my fault if something went wrong later. (The General is notorious for that)

11-18-2010, 09:46 AM	#19
daphatgrant June '10 Drives: '10 2SS/RS RJT Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Upstate NY (FingerLakes) Posts: 2,395	The 1,500 change mark was listed but there was a side note like "only if intended for racing" or something like that. edit, I just went through the manual and while it does say that it should be changed every 6hrs of racing nowhere that I can find does it list 1,500 miles. __________________ RJT, 2SS/RS, M6, Black Int, Sunroof. (Click above image to learn about UpstateC5)* Last edited by daphatgrant; 11-18-2010 at 10:07 AM.

11-18-2010, 10:34 AM	#24
burntOmaro Bye Bye GD Drives: 2015 AGM SS (Everyday=1 day closer) Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: San Antonio Posts: 175	I picked up my 5 quarts of RP this week. Plan on changing out the tranny and rear diff this sat. I have 30K+ on mine... i'm anxious to see what sh!t comes out. __________________ 2010 CGM 2SS RS. Atomic Orange Metallic Stripes. Corsa Cat-Back. MGW Short-Throw. H&R Springs. AAC Halo/Fogs. 20" Havoc Wheels. SRP Pedals. RX Catch Can. Kicker L7 & Amp in ******** Stealth. Garys Custom Fenders. Roto-Fab CAI. Pfadt Trailing Arms.

11-18-2010, 10:45 AM	#26
v6sonoma Drives: 2010 SS RS Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Providence, RI Posts: 8,108 View My Garage	Royal Purple! __________________ Mods: BBK Intake, BBK LT's and High Flow Cats, Corsa Cat-back exhaust, Hurst short throw shifter, SLP skip-shift eliminator. 7/1/09 Placed order for IOM/IO int/ SS/RS 6M 9/26/09 Took delivery!

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11-18-2010, 09:38 AM	#16
Bonanza7 Account Suspended Drives: 2010, Rally Yellow, Black stripes Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Phoenix Posts: 2,363	There are two plugs. The upper one is for checking and filling, the lower one is for draining. Easy. I did not do it myself because the thing sits so low I couldn't get under it. Jacking it up makes it un-level, and that won't work right. The manual has a very good drawing of the diff and the plugs. Cost me $59 done by my service company. (Dealer would be a whole lot more, I suspect.) Took about 30 minutes for them to do it. Use the right fluid.

11-18-2010, 10:39 AM	#25
Dan@showstopper Drives: 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Illinois Posts: 499	I changed the rear end fluid with Amsoil severe gear and slip lock additive. I'm happy I did beacuse the fluid looked very metallic. Trans is next this spring.

11-18-2010, 11:47 AM	#28
Bonanza7 Account Suspended Drives: 2010, Rally Yellow, Black stripes Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Phoenix Posts: 2,363	I did mine, not because the manual says to, (I couldn't find 1,500 in mine either), but because others reported so much metal in theirs. I would just rather have good, clean fluid than take a chance and have the General claim it was my fault if something went wrong later. (The General is notorious for that)