Is there a rev limiter parameter for when the brake is depressed (2010 Camaro)?

[2010 Bumblebee]

Is there a rev limiter parameter for when the brake is depressed (2010 Camaro)?

I know it's a strange question, but if there is/was a rev limiter parameter for when the brake is depressed in the 2010 camaro's computer or any cars computer for that matter it could be set just below the RPMs that the torque converter engauges that way one could hold it to the floor and hold the brake and when the light turns green just take your foot off the brake and whá lá a good launch off the line!

Or is could be used as a brake stand protection measure. That way noboby could beat on the car !

So, Is there a rev limiter parameter for when the brake is depressed (2010 Camaro)? Anyone know, or know a work around ??

[The 2010 Sin]

try it see what happens ;-) but id doubt it.. if it did it would be under your competitive driving mode on your traction control.

[2010 Bumblebee]

Originally Posted by The 2010 Sin

try it see what happens ;-) but id doubt it.. if it did it would be under your competitive driving mode on your traction control.

Hi I'm looking for a parameter that may or may not exist in the programing of the computer. You would need something like EFI live to access it. It would be cool if it was pre programed into the car already, but I doubt this parameter even exists.

A crazy work around idea could be to wire the brake to the neutral safety switch, then set the rev limiter for neutral to whatever you want.

[ratlover]

acording to what I can see with EFI live there is rev limiter based on what gear, neutral, reverse, park. Nothing about brake. I could do some playing and figure out if the clutch in but in gear means "neutral" to the car. Doubt it but maybe. I'd think in the torque management is were you would find a usefull parameter. There is a lot that I'm not seeing I belive.....I can't realy see how to alter my "competition mode" so it makes me believe I'm missing quite a bit.

EFI live and hptuners don't give you access to every table. I can't remember the exact % but its actually pretty small. Its like the %of your brain you actually use. You would go nuts and probably destroy something if you had everything to mess with lol but as users run into issues they will work on getting you the tables you need.

[jbsrace1]

Not exactly RPM but there is a brake torque setting. Lower the torque and it will not go any higher wile the brake is depressed.

[2010 Bumblebee]

Originally Posted by ratlover

acording to what I can see with EFI live there is rev limiter based on what gear, neutral, reverse, park. Nothing about brake. I could do some playing and figure out if the clutch in but in gear means "neutral" to the car. Doubt it but maybe. I'd think in the torque management is were you would find a usefull parameter. There is a lot that I'm not seeing I belive.....I can't realy see how to alter my "competition mode" so it makes me believe I'm missing quite a bit.

EFI live and hptuners don't give you access to every table. I can't remember the exact % but its actually pretty small. Its like the %of your brain you actually use. You would go nuts and probably destroy something if you had everything to mess with lol but as users run into issues they will work on getting you the tables you need.

I'm learning new stuff here !! Maybe you are too !! My car is an auto, that's the point of holdng the break and the gas, but I don't want to heat my converter or tranny. I'm not sure why you mentioned the cluch. Either I missed something , or you did.

Originally Posted by jbsrace1

Not exactly RPM but there is a brake torque setting. Lower the torque and it will not go any higher wile the brake is depressed.

I like this. Can I access it from EFI live ??? What program are you using ??

But you will still heat up your converter and tranny with the brake torque setting.

My idea was to bring the RPMs up, or limit them, to just below where the converter grabs.

But see after all this I'm learning something ! Maybe someone else too !!

[ratlover]

Well unless I'm blind I'm not seeing that. Ill have to pester EFI live. Haven't done the latest update though.....

I figured there would be some work around via torque management.......

[2010 Bumblebee]

Originally Posted by ratlover

Well unless I'm blind I'm not seeing that. Ill have to pester EFI live. Haven't done the latest update though.....

I figured there would be some work around via torque management.......

I don't even know if it exist, but I thought it was a good idea.

Just think, the stock converter grabs at about 1000-1100 RPMs, if you hold it there on the line it's heating up. Wouldn't it be nice to have a brake activated rev limiter to hold it at 950 or something. Then the light turns green, release the brake and you are that much further along with less wear and tear on the car. It would work even better with a 3000 stall speed, just set the limiter to say 2500 and release brake --->>> gone !!!!

My numbers might be off a little, but you get the idea..

GM are you listening ????

[DSteck]

What you're suggesting is the equivalent of a neutral drop, which would consequently grenade your transmission. The torque converter is always technically engaged. It's just not always locked.

The only way you're not really going to heat up the converter while revving the engine up is if the transmission is in neutral, in which case there's no resistance from the input shaft since it is free to spin. Your engine will flash the stall pretty quick... you don't need to sit there holding the brake and flooring it for 15 seconds.

If you're in gear, and you have this limiter, you're still heating up the transmission fluid because the input shaft is still providing resistance in the torque converter.

[2010 Bumblebee]

Originally Posted by DSteck

What you're suggesting is the equivalent of a neutral drop, which would consequently grenade your transmission. The torque converter is always technically engaged. It's just not always locked.

The only way you're not really going to heat up the converter while revving the engine up is if the transmission is in neutral, in which case there's no resistance from the input shaft since it is free to spin. Your engine will flash the stall pretty quick... you don't need to sit there holding the brake and flooring it for 15 seconds.

If you're in gear, and you have this limiter, you're still heating up the transmission fluid because the input shaft is still providing resistance in the torque converter.

Ok you are right about if it's in gear, it's still heating up, but we could limit it.

As far as the neutral drop, it's in drive already, so it's not the same thing..

[DSteck]

Originally Posted by 2010 Bumblebee

Ok you are right about if it's in gear, it's still heating up, but we could limit it.

As far as the neutral drop, it's in drive already, so it's not the same thing..

The way you want it to work would equate to a neutral drop.

Just stall it up at the last second, and let her rip. You don't need to stall up for 15 seconds. Like I said, it'll flash the engine pretty quick.

[ratlover]

It would be a way to be deadly consistent on launch.....but you can do the same thing by limiting how much throttle you apply. Its just much more consistent for a computer to do it.

Either way you would heat the fluid the same weather the computer was holding you back or how far you pressed your foot.

I'm learning, still pretty much a dumbass I'm using efi live, the other guys arnt

By limiting how much "torque" the car will allow with the brake on it will limit how much power it will put out regardless if you have the throttle floored or not. It will effectivly limit your rpm

[ratlover]

and yes I figured you had an auto.....I was just getting side tracked and thinking out loud because a way to alter my "competition mode" would be sweet

From my days of staging and launching turbo/auto trans combos I have settled on this method. Light the first bulb and wait for the other guy to light his, if he is a dick and didn't "courtesy stage" and has both his bulbs lit I will bring her up on the converter to what ever I plan to leave at, otherwise I wait for him to light his first bulb till I bring it up. Once I'm at what ever rpm/boost I plan to leave at a let off the brake and roll forward till I got my second bulb lit.

This way I'm not sitting at the line on the converter waiting on the other guy. This is a dickhead move and its also hard on stuff. Bad all the way around. Sitting on the converter for 15 seconds builds a lot of heat. Granted on a street tire camaro ur probably not going to be on the converter very hard, stalling it up too high will just fry the tires when the light goes green. Second it makes it easier for me to be settled and ready to go as soon as I am fully staged. Bigger deal in a vehicle that's a bit more finicky and touchy to stage. But it means I am relaxed and ready to go and not feeling rushed. Its what I do and works for me.

If you run up against a noob that just jumps up there and lights both bulbs while your in the water box just talk to em. Most guys don't know any better and are cool. If its t&t and someone keeps doing it even if they have been told better piss on em....sit in the water box and let em sit at the tree till auto start kicks in. They want to be a dick be the bigger dick lol