06-29-2015, 09:53 AM | #43 |
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As a GM tech that does the re-ring for excessive oil consumption, most all are caused by breaking it in too easy. Rings never seat, glaze forms on cylinder walls, then the rings can no longer finish seating properly. They must be able to penetrate the lubrication barrier in those fist few hundred miles, and that rarely happens (some do fine though) if babied.
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06-29-2015, 10:11 PM | #44 | |
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Quote:
2. How about using Royal Purple Break-In Oil, any advice?
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06-30-2015, 09:17 AM | #45 |
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I would do whatever the cam manufacturer recommends.
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06-30-2015, 09:20 AM | #46 |
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Old flat tappet cams needed to be run at 2500 RPM at first start up for 20 minutes to break in, but today's rollers don't have much in the way of break-in. Just make sure to use camshaft assy lube when installing and follow manufacturer's instructions.
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08-10-2015, 05:46 PM | #47 |
Drives: 2000 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2010
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08-10-2015, 08:51 PM | #48 |
Drives: 2013 Camaro SS and 63 Impala Join Date: Feb 2013
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Isn't "manufacturers recommendations" what we are debating? Chevy says it one way in manual, GM Performance says it another way!
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08-11-2015, 12:42 PM | #49 |
Drives: 2000 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2010
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We were discussing break in after a new CAM. I was saying to do it however the CAM manufacturer recommends but that they usually recommend something pretty close to what the GM Performance guidelines call for.
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08-11-2015, 06:27 PM | #50 | |
Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
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Quote:
When buying a new car, the engine was run at the engine plant. Then run again at the vehicle assembly plant through the DVT roller test. Then driven around at the plant lot. Driven around by various truck and train shippers. Driven around by the dealer on their lot parking the car.... It's had many run cycles by the time you get that vehicle. Buy a GMPP engine. It's green brand new fresh engine. A green engine requires a different break in. Needs a few start and light load warms ups...heat cycles. Then start putting more power to it as it breaks in. |
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08-18-2015, 11:36 AM | #51 |
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Check out this recent article. Glad I changed my oil at 500 miles.
http://www.autoevolution.com/news/20...ery-98918.html
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10-23-2015, 08:47 AM | #52 | |
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Quote:
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10-23-2015, 04:01 PM | #53 |
Drives: 2015 LT automatic Join Date: Oct 2015
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I did the 4k rpm break-in today. I left it in second gear and ran it up to 4k then let off and then back up to 4k...about 10 times. I took it home, pulled it in the garage, popped the hood and she smelled like all the paint was burning off inside the engine compartment. I changed the oil and poured the used oil through a white 1 micron bag filter. After seeing what was left in the bag, I was glad I was changing the oil at 500 miles and not waiting until 3000 miles.
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12-07-2015, 01:11 PM | #54 | |
Drives: 2000 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2010
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Quote:
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12-08-2015, 10:38 PM | #55 |
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So, what is the best way to prime the LS3? My cars in hibernation right now and I'm already thinking towards spring when I'll start it up and hear that sweet cam again.
I want to prime the oil system as per the break-in sheet and would definitely appreciate advice on how best to do this. Previous years, I've done the fuel pump fuse pull, but the car will still run a bit on the gas in the lines. Now that I've got a hot cam in, I'd really like to do a true oil priming without fuel & ignition.
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447 HP @ 6180 RPM / 418 TQ @ 5100 RPM Last edited by Avalnch; 12-08-2015 at 11:10 PM. |
12-09-2015, 09:42 AM | #56 |
Drives: 2000 Camaro SS Join Date: Feb 2010
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Pulling the fuel lines/plugs/coil packs and turn the key for 5 seconds a few times is a common method. You could also invest in a pre-oiler.
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Tags |
break in, engine break in |
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