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Old 09-20-2012, 08:35 PM   #1
kevin1106


 
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New master cylinder installed & Shifter

I did all this yesterday... Must say that after driving my car today... It is a 100% improvement. The master cylinder took care of my clutch sticking to the floor and my 1st gear to 2nd gear grinds at high rpm's. The pedal felt so much better, I removed lingenfelters return spring kit....

Took out my POS Barton's shifter and installed MGW's shifter... This things feels great... No more rattles, no more in gear slop, side to side is nice and tight.... 2nd gear to 3rd gear shifts are very very easy.. Can't wait to get to the track and try this baby out!

This has been 2 of the best mods I've done!

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Last edited by kevin1106; 09-20-2012 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:51 PM   #2
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Great to hear! I am doing these same changes next week. You do mean clutch master cylinder and shifter though. The slave cylinder is actually the hydraulic version of a clutch throw out bearing. Very good to know that it worked out well for you. I take it you have not gone with a separate fluid reservoir yet like many here have done? Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin1106 View Post
I did all this yesterday... Must say that after driving my car today... It is a 100% improvement. The slave cylinder took care of my clutch sticking to the floor and my 1st gear to 2nd gear grinds at high rpm's. The pedal felt so much better, I removed lingenfelters return spring kit....

Took out my POS Barton's shifter and installed MGW's shifter... This things feels great... No more rattles, no more in gear slop, side to side is nice and tight.... 2nd gear to 3rd gear shifts are very very easy.. Can't wait to get to the track and try this baby out!

This has been 2 of the best mods I've done!

Attachment 424491
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:29 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bthibodeaux View Post
Great to hear! I am doing these same changes next week. You do mean clutch master cylinder and shifter though. The slave cylinder is actually the hydraulic version of a clutch throw out bearing. Very good to know that it worked out well for you. I take it you have not gone with a separate fluid reservoir yet like many here have done? Thanks.
Yes, your right. Wrong headline. It was the clutch master cylinder. No I haven't ran a separate clutch reservoir yet. Don't think I need to now though. For once everything is working properly. Lol
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Old 09-20-2012, 09:39 PM   #4
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Nice job! I'm glad to hear you got it going and it worked out.
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Old 09-20-2012, 10:19 PM   #5
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Nice job! I'm glad to hear you got it going and it worked out.
Me too, longest part of the job was bleeding the clutch.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:23 AM   #6
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Me too, longest part of the job was bleeding the clutch.

LOL yeah it can be a pita.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:32 PM   #7
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What is the bracket I circled in red used for? I just bought a used MGW off a member on here and my shifter has straight arms for the front brackets and came with no instructions. I used their YouTube video to do the install and it made no mention of that bracket???

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Old 09-21-2012, 07:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never Satisfied View Post
What is the bracket I circled in red used for? I just bought a used MGW off a member on here and my shifter has straight arms for the front brackets and came with no instructions. I used their YouTube video to do the install and it made no mention of that bracket???

MGW made a few changes to the shifter since it was first released. The arms are redesigned so there is no need to make sure the tranny is level before tightening the bolts on the shifter arms....

The piece you circled is also a new added piece... It is used to secure the top rubber boot... You put this in the place where the 2 bolts would go...where you probably used dynamat.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:42 PM   #9
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Oh...ok, that makes sense. I had no idea what version mine was, but it shifts fine and I was hoping I didn't leave something out that was necessary. Thanks!


P.S. Congrats on the install. I need to do the IDEALG mod next and your post confirms this.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:47 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Never Satisfied View Post
Oh...ok, that makes sense. I had no idea what version mine was, but it shifts fine and I was hoping I didn't leave something out that was necessary. Thanks!


P.S. Congrats on the install. I need to do the IDEALG mod next and your post confirms this.
No problem. You definitely want to do the master cylinder... I was skeptical at first, but glad I did it now. You just have to bleed the crap out of you clutch when you done.... Install was pretty simple... I think it took me an hour from start to finish....
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:51 PM   #11
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Cool...good to know. I wondered how painful it was to install. I may have to order sooner rather than later.
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:07 PM   #12
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Cool...good to know. I wondered how painful it was to install. I may have to order sooner rather than later.
Tips and hard parts of the install.....

Being able to work under the dash in a tight spot.... Hard a crap to use both hands

Bleeding the clutch

Getting the lines off the cylinder under the hood...tight spot

Be sure when you remove the metal line, that the rubber washer stays on the end...

When putting the new cylinder in, a piece of wire works great to hold the round spacer in place until you the bolt started through the hole

If I was to do this again, I could probably do it in 15-20 minutes.
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Old 09-22-2012, 06:47 PM   #13
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Install complete... Full test tomorrow

Just got done installing IdealG clutch master. Was straight forward, not difficult. Just got done bleeding. Can't test now... is raining (have drag radials and no wipers).

I used a hand vacuum pump to bleed system thru the reservoir. A brass vacuum fitting was attached to a GM reservoir cap I had laying around. Pulled 10psi vacuum while the pedal was pumped similar to Jerry's video. Clutch feel is firm, I did start car and back out and pull back in. Only thing I did that I probably didn't have to do was prime the master, then plug up the inlet/outlet ports with snug fitting rubber stopper plugs before the install.

(This is how master was primed: Placed rubber tubing into full brake fluid bottle and attached other end to the master inlet port... another piece of tubing attached to outlet port with the other end of tubing going to an empty container. Pumped 5 times to get rid of all air, then inlet &outlet was capped right away. After that it was installed).

Will get into some boost tomorrow to test.

Btw- I'm hoping to take off the LPE return spring just like Kevin did... we shall see...
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Old 09-22-2012, 08:49 PM   #14
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Cool man, let us know how things work out for you.
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