03-05-2015, 02:51 PM | #29 | |
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If the Anvil spoiler didnt exist, this is what I would have gotten too!
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SOLD - 2013 1LE - Pat G Spec'd Cam, NPP with 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers with High Flow Cats, Intake w/scoop, Ported Throttle Body, and Apex 1.25" Lowering Springs.
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03-05-2015, 03:04 PM | #30 | |
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I was discussing it with the vendor, 15mm is about 1/2 inch. To the naked eye, you probably can't tell the difference between the front and the back. But really, the concern is that with a +20 up front, that it will hit the fender. He said it should fit, but man, one bump may be a bad day. I was thinking that if I went wit ha +35, and didn't like, couldn't I always put a spacer in? I was doing a wheel and tire package, so sadly, the tires will be mounted when I get them. So probably no going back at that point. And yeah, the VMR V710s are not very concave, they are more of a "deep hub" type a wheel. Very simliar to how the wheels are on the 370Z Nismo.
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03-05-2015, 03:19 PM | #31 | |
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ST1LE - It was this one or the anvil for me too...
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If they sat too deep in at +35 and I didn't like it, I'd consider an adapter (not so much a spacer), and then I would consider an adapter only for the fronts. The adapters I purchased are solid and strong, but so is the car and for my rears, I think I'd be at risk at busting something. For the fronts adapters are fine in my book. The difference between adapters and spacers - adapters bolt on the same way your tires do, and then you bolt on the wheels to the adapters. Spacers are just that, a thick piece of metal without bolts... I've reard that with spacers, there's the risk of having your steering wheel shake because they're not hubcentric. Also, you have to consider - if you're adding adapters, in order for the wheel to sit flush you may have to trim your existing bolts - that is, unless your wheels have the cavity to fit the stock bolts. The Niche Milans did have the space for the stock bolts to stick out beyond the adapter, and still sit flush. |
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03-05-2015, 03:28 PM | #32 |
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Here's a couple of pics of the adapters:
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03-05-2015, 03:31 PM | #33 | |
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03-06-2015, 06:01 AM | #34 |
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In thinking of how the math will work out, if I do ET35 on both, it will come out that the front will be about 1/2" further in than the rear. I think from the overall look of the car, that may be ok. At least accetpable until I determine I need an adapter haha.
I am settled on an ET35 in the back. Now for the front, I am concerned that the ET20 will come out too far. The vendor said that there are gen5 camaro guys running ET20s, and its just more aggressive, while the ET35 is less. If both can technically work, I am not sure which I should be running and which will look better.
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03-06-2015, 08:02 AM | #35 | |
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03-06-2015, 08:05 AM | #36 | |
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I appreciate your continued info on this.
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03-06-2015, 08:21 AM | #37 |
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Think about this;
There is a 25mm (.97") difference between the 9" rims and the 10" rims. I think we've determined that +35 for the rears will work, if you get +20's for the fronts, you're only bringing them out just over 1/2" and the fronts will still be about 1/2" more tucked under the wheel wheel than the rears. I think you'll be just fine with +20's. Also note that a wider stance helps front end stability tremendously. There is a big difference in how a wider stance feels from stock. The steering wheel is tougher and the car feels more planted to the ground. All wins... |
03-06-2015, 08:36 AM | #38 | |
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03-06-2015, 08:46 AM | #39 |
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It should be fine. Note that I have 8.5" rims for my fronts at +35 offset and added a 1" (25mm) Adapter in order to get them where they're at right now and they still don't stick out of the wheel well. As you noted, my front rims are not as concaved as the rears and are probably closer in depth to yours. If I wanted to get my fronts to where they're at now without the adapter, I would have to go +10 offset (25mm difference), or get a 9" wheel going +20 offset (about 1/4" or about 10mm difference). Or go 10" wheel with a +35 offset (about 1/2" difference)... and with a 10" wheel for the front I am probably risking some rubbing.
Go for the +20's... Edit: Corrected the math above. Last edited by Spec; 03-06-2015 at 09:21 AM. |
03-06-2015, 09:45 AM | #40 | |
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By getting 8.5" +10 = it would match where you are without the 1" spacer (25mm) This makes perfect sense. By getting a 9" +20 = you say a 10 mm difference? I'm not sure I understand that? 10mm different from what exactly? When i went to the offset site, I put those sizes in and it says this (going from the 8.5 +10 to the 9 +20): Inner Clearance: (the inside of the wheel to the strut housing) 16mm LESS Outer Position: (position of the outside edge of the wheel) RETRACT by 4mm I thought they were supposed to be the same if they were different options for you? By getting a 10" +35 - you have a 12.5mm difference? Difference compared to what exactly? I"m trying to visualize how all these are the same. Or is the point here that you are showing how to increase teh size "inward" toward the strut, while not increasing the dimension out toward the fender? To take this 1 step further, going from the stock 8" +35, to a 9" +20, means that I will increase over an inch in the outward direction. 1.1" to be more exact. As long as there is more than 1.1" of space between the stock wheel and the fender, I should be golden I think?
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Last edited by Swacer; 03-06-2015 at 10:03 AM. |
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03-06-2015, 09:49 AM | #41 |
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03-06-2015, 09:50 AM | #42 |
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