How Flush is Too Flush?

[ST1LE]

Originally Posted by Spec

PM sent, PalmerGA...


I looked long and hard for the right one and this one stuck with me...

Good choice man, its a really nice one.

If the Anvil spoiler didnt exist, this is what I would have gotten too!

[Swacer]

Originally Posted by Spec

They should not rub.... but if you go +35 on both the fronts and the rears, but have different size rims (9" and 10"), I think it will look odd.

JR 1 - agreed... my intention is not to mislead anyone but it does take a fair amount of research to get this all right. The numbers on my sig are correct, and as mentioned - it does all depend on the type of wheel you're getting. Really, nothing will take the nervousness away when purchasing new wheels until you test mount them and are truly satisfied with the look. I've got 10.5 +20 Offsets for my rears, but as you can see - they're concave and that's why the offset is only +20. If you've got wheels that are not concave like the ones the OP wants, +35 for the rears seems about right, and again +30, +25 could work for the fronts... but I am doing a fair amount of guestimating based off my own research.

Key is to test mount without the tires because most manufacturers will not allow returns if you've put a tire on them.

Hope it all works out for you, OP!

Thank you for the great advice.

I was discussing it with the vendor, 15mm is about 1/2 inch. To the naked eye, you probably can't tell the difference between the front and the back. But really, the concern is that with a +20 up front, that it will hit the fender. He said it should fit, but man, one bump may be a bad day.

I was thinking that if I went wit ha +35, and didn't like, couldn't I always put a spacer in?

I was doing a wheel and tire package, so sadly, the tires will be mounted when I get them. So probably no going back at that point.

And yeah, the VMR V710s are not very concave, they are more of a "deep hub" type a wheel. Very simliar to how the wheels are on the 370Z Nismo.

[Spec]

ST1LE - It was this one or the anvil for me too...

Originally Posted by Swacer

Thank you for the great advice.

I was discussing it with the vendor, 15mm is about 1/2 inch. To the naked eye, you probably can't tell the difference between the front and the back. But really, the concern is that with a +20 up front, that it will hit the fender. He said it should fit, but man, one bump may be a bad day.

I was thinking that if I went wit ha +35, and didn't like, couldn't I always put a spacer in?

I was doing a wheel and tire package, so sadly, the tires will be mounted when I get them. So probably no going back at that point.

And yeah, the VMR V710s are not very concave, they are more of a "deep hub" type a wheel. Very simliar to how the wheels are on the 370Z Nismo.

If they sat too deep in at +35 and I didn't like it, I'd consider an adapter (not so much a spacer), and then I would consider an adapter only for the fronts. The adapters I purchased are solid and strong, but so is the car and for my rears, I think I'd be at risk at busting something. For the fronts adapters are fine in my book. The difference between adapters and spacers - adapters bolt on the same way your tires do, and then you bolt on the wheels to the adapters. Spacers are just that, a thick piece of metal without bolts... I've reard that with spacers, there's the risk of having your steering wheel shake because they're not hubcentric.

Also, you have to consider - if you're adding adapters, in order for the wheel to sit flush you may have to trim your existing bolts - that is, unless your wheels have the cavity to fit the stock bolts. The Niche Milans did have the space for the stock bolts to stick out beyond the adapter, and still sit flush.

[Spec]

Here's a couple of pics of the adapters:

[LOBBS]

Originally Posted by Swacer

Yep, thats what I saw on the calculator. Now will that cause any rubber in either the front or the back?

I"m also concerned, will this make my front and back not look aligned if I went ET35 on both the front and back? Like the new front will come out further than the new back? Or vice versa?

I"m honestly in the dark.

With the +35 you're just pushing the outside edge out .5" up front and .7" out back. Whether or not the concavity of the wheel changes with offset is largely determined by the construction method (3 pc vs 2 pc vs monoblock/cast) and even then the centers may not change just their location within the barrel of the wheel.

[Swacer]

In thinking of how the math will work out, if I do ET35 on both, it will come out that the front will be about 1/2" further in than the rear. I think from the overall look of the car, that may be ok. At least accetpable until I determine I need an adapter haha.

I am settled on an ET35 in the back. Now for the front, I am concerned that the ET20 will come out too far. The vendor said that there are gen5 camaro guys running ET20s, and its just more aggressive, while the ET35 is less. If both can technically work, I am not sure which I should be running and which will look better.

[Spec]

Originally Posted by Swacer

In thinking of how the math will work out, if I do ET35 on both, it will come out that the front will be about 1/2" further in than the rear. I think from the overall look of the car, that may be ok. At least accetpable until I determine I need an adapter haha.

I am settled on an ET35 in the back. Now for the front, I am concerned that the ET20 will come out too far. The vendor said that there are gen5 camaro guys running ET20s, and its just more aggressive, while the ET35 is less. If both can technically work, I am not sure which I should be running and which will look better.

Go with the +35's if you're not sure about the +20's and like you said, add adapter if you don't like it (just make sure your wheels have the cavities to fit the stock bolts if you're going that route, or else you have to trim your stock bolts). I think +20's would work and get you close to the edge, and it would look good and much more aggressive... but if you're not sure, stick with the +35's.

[Swacer]

Originally Posted by Spec

Go with the +35's if you're not sure about the +20's and like you said, add adapter if you don't like it (just make sure your wheels have the cavities to fit the stock bolts if you're going that route, or else you have to trim your stock bolts). I think +20's would work and get you close to the edge, and it would look good and much more aggressive... but if you're not sure, stick with the +35's.

I ideally want the front and back to be ABOUT the same distance from the fender. So if I"m running +35 in the back, would a +20 up front make it look more even? And I am fine with it being CLOSE to the fender as long as it goes UNDER it if I hit a hole. Lets also keep in mind, I drive this car like 2,000 miles a year on good condition roads, so I"m saying worst case here.

I appreciate your continued info on this.

[Spec]

Think about this;

There is a 25mm (.97") difference between the 9" rims and the 10" rims. I think we've determined that +35 for the rears will work, if you get +20's for the fronts, you're only bringing them out just over 1/2" and the fronts will still be about 1/2" more tucked under the wheel wheel than the rears. I think you'll be just fine with +20's.

Also note that a wider stance helps front end stability tremendously. There is a big difference in how a wider stance feels from stock. The steering wheel is tougher and the car feels more planted to the ground. All wins...

[Swacer]

Originally Posted by Spec

Think about this;

There is a 25mm (.97") difference between the 9" rims and the 10" rims. I think we've determined that +35 for the rears will work, if you get +20's for the fronts, you're only bringing them out just over 1/2" and the fronts will still be about 1/2" more tucked under the wheel wheel than the rears. I think you'll be just fine with +20's.

Also note that a wider stance helps front end stability tremendously. There is a big difference in how a wider stance feels from stock. The steering wheel is tougher and the car feels more planted to the ground. All wins...

Alright, so the only question is, will the +20 safely fit under the front fender. If so, I am starting to think the +20 is the better way to go. Wish there was a way to confirm this...

[Spec]

It should be fine. Note that I have 8.5" rims for my fronts at +35 offset and added a 1" (25mm) Adapter in order to get them where they're at right now and they still don't stick out of the wheel well. As you noted, my front rims are not as concaved as the rears and are probably closer in depth to yours. If I wanted to get my fronts to where they're at now without the adapter, I would have to go +10 offset (25mm difference), or get a 9" wheel going +20 offset (about 1/4" or about 10mm difference). Or go 10" wheel with a +35 offset (about 1/2" difference)... and with a 10" wheel for the front I am probably risking some rubbing.

Go for the +20's...

Edit: Corrected the math above.

[Swacer]

Originally Posted by Spec

It should be fine. Note that I have 8.5" rims for my fronts at +35 offset and added a 1" (25mm) Adapter in order to get them where they're at right now and they still don't stick out of the wheel well. As you noted, my front rims are not as concaved as the rears and are probably closer in depth to yours. If I wanted to get my fronts to where they're at now without the adapter, I would have to go +10 offset (25mm difference), or get a 9" wheel going +20 offset (about 1/4" or about 10mm difference). Or go 10" wheel with a +35 offset (about 1/2" difference)... and with a 10" wheel for the front I am probably risking some rubbing.

Go for the +20's...

Edit: Corrected the math above.

Ok, making sure I understand this.

By getting 8.5" +10 = it would match where you are without the 1" spacer (25mm) This makes perfect sense.

By getting a 9" +20 = you say a 10 mm difference? I'm not sure I understand that? 10mm different from what exactly?

When i went to the offset site, I put those sizes in and it says this (going from the 8.5 +10 to the 9 +20):

Inner Clearance: (the inside of the wheel to the strut housing) 16mm LESS
Outer Position: (position of the outside edge of the wheel) RETRACT by 4mm

I thought they were supposed to be the same if they were different options for you?

By getting a 10" +35 - you have a 12.5mm difference? Difference compared to what exactly?

I"m trying to visualize how all these are the same. Or is the point here that you are showing how to increase teh size "inward" toward the strut, while not increasing the dimension out toward the fender?

To take this 1 step further, going from the stock 8" +35, to a 9" +20, means that I will increase over an inch in the outward direction. 1.1" to be more exact. As long as there is more than 1.1" of space between the stock wheel and the fender, I should be golden I think?

[gajagfan]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

The 1LE sway bars are designed to work with a semi square wheel and tire setup. Going to a 275/305 staggered setup will create and understeering 1lE.

I do not think that the OP's car is a 1LE.

[Swacer]

Originally Posted by gajagfan

I do not think that the OP's car is a 1LE.

Correcto