car feels slow 0-60... tq management/powerhop?

[tribaltalon]

Im working with a 2010 camaro ss m6 with longtubes, 3" catback and a CAI tuned by SWG Automotive. I took it to the track last weekend and averaged 2.0-2.1 60 fts (best was a 1.92 60ft) on stock tires and suspension but I could feel the car slack off immediately after launching. First gear on every run felt slow, and then took off once I got into 2nd. the best run I managed was a 13.07 at 109 mph. Ive been drag racing for years and just cant figure it out. Did any of yall have a similiar problem? Do I need to turn off tq management and powerhop all together or just reduce the settings? I really feel like with a full pass the car would easily run mid 12s at 114 or so.

[Iam Broke]

Yep, get rid of all the nannies. It'll help.

No wheel hop here since installing BMR subframe connectors & rear trailing (spherical bearing) arms.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by tribaltalon

Im working with a 2010 camaro ss m6 with longtubes, 3" catback and a CAI tuned by SWG Automotive. I took it to the track last weekend and averaged 2.0-2.1 60 fts (best was a 1.92 60ft) on stock tires and suspension but I could feel the car slack off immediately after launching. First gear on every run felt slow, and then took off once I got into 2nd. the best run I managed was a 13.07 at 109 mph. Ive been drag racing for years and just cant figure it out. Did any of yall have a similiar problem? Do I need to turn off tq management and powerhop all together or just reduce the settings? I really feel like with a full pass the car would easily run mid 12s at 114 or so.

Try holding the traction control button down for 8 seconds while Idling.

Both traction control and stabil trac lights will come on the dash and all the Nannies are Shut off.

Ted.

[tribaltalon]

I did that. 60ft improved with everything off but still felt loss of power after launch. best way I can describe it is a laggy turbo setup where you launch on boost then it takes forever to get going again. It's been a few years since my last drag car but I've never had this much trouble. The tuner said he adjusted the tq management imwhen he tuned the car but hed mess with it some more. he also theorized that the aluminum K&N CAI might be causing high IAT's and pulling timing until the car starts getting cool air around 50-60mph. I tried icing the intake manifold and intake tube but it didnt really seem to make a huge difference.

[Iam Broke]

Turning off the TC & Stabilitrack still leaves the stock tune tq management in place. Sorry, but to get rid of it you gotta tune it.
Under 3k rpm there is a lot of restriction stock. See attached.

[hazzard623]

So what does a tuned layout look like?

[Iam Broke]

Whatever you wish, I maxed out the tables on mine and let my right foot control it.

[tribaltalon]

did you leave the powerhop alone? whats the difference netween powerhop and tq management

[Iam Broke]

Powerhop senses the oscillation of load from the wheel hop and closes the throttle to stop it. I disabled it also, only nanny I left in the tune was oil starvation.

[tribaltalon]

hm. well the tuner said he already had disabled TQ management completely so there goes that theory. I decided to change out the cai from the aluminum K&N typhoon to a LMR CAI thats plastic/carbon fiber wrap. The tuner theorized that maybe heat soak/high IAT's are pulling timing until I get up to 40-50mph and cool air starts flowing. The K&N does get HOT to the touch.

[Tampa Tuning]

Originally Posted by tribaltalon

The tuner theorized that maybe heat soak/high IAT's are pulling timing until I get up to 40-50mph and cool air starts flowing. The K&N does get HOT to the touch.

That's what I was going to say. I modify the IAT calibration in the table. Your stock IAT table starts to remove 2* of timing when it determines the IAT temperature raise to 86 degrees. Heck that's almost start up temperatures in the Tampa summers. It pulls 7 degrees of timing at 122 IAT temperature. If you car is warmed up, and your stopped at a traffic light for 2-3 minutes, you quickly get up to 140 degrees of engine bay temperatures which pulls 8 degrees of timing.

The other side of the coin, why does your feel faster in the colder months. Obviously colder denser air, but your calibration starts to add timing below 59 degrees IAT.

Phil

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by tribaltalon

hm. well the tuner said he already had disabled TQ management completely so there goes that theory. I decided to change out the cai from the aluminum K&N typhoon to a LMR CAI thats plastic/carbon fiber wrap. The tuner theorized that maybe heat soak/high IAT's are pulling timing until I get up to 40-50mph and cool air starts flowing. The K&N does get HOT to the touch.

The Best intake system we found is the CAI Brand for IAT control.

Ted.

[f5journal]

Originally Posted by Tampa Tuning

That's what I was going to say. I modify the IAT calibration in the table. Your stock IAT table starts to remove 2* of timing when it determines the IAT temperature raise to 86 degrees. Heck that's almost start up temperatures in the Tampa summers. It pulls 7 degrees of timing at 122 IAT temperature. If you car is warmed up, and your stopped at a traffic light for 2-3 minutes, you quickly get up to 140 degrees of engine bay temperatures which pulls 8 degrees of timing.

The other side of the coin, why does your feel faster in the colder months. Obviously colder denser air, but your calibration starts to add timing below 59 degrees IAT.

Phil

Thank-you for this informative post

[2SS2010]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

The Best intake system we found is the CAI Brand for IAT control.

Ted.

Do you see any issues with heat soak on the MAF with the CAI brand? Anyone actually take temps inside the CAI box vs the actual engine compartment? Does the inside box temp become irrelevant inside the tube that goers into the TB?