EVERYBODY POST YOUR DYNO NUMBERS!(sticky request)

[mydreamcar]

Originally Posted by jeff4946

So does that mean the SAE correction I did is right? I'm not understanding that much.

yeah I would like to know as well bc, 303 at the wheels, now we are talking, but how could such variance occur. I know all dynos can be different and conditions and such but how could it not be with 5-10 hp, 30 plus seems steep

[rtcat600man]

Originally Posted by mydreamcar

yeah I would like to know as well bc, 303 at the wheels, now we are talking, but how could such variance occur. I know all dynos can be different and conditions and such but how could it not be with 5-10 hp, 30 plus seems steep

Great article to help explain some of the differences, or at least point out that it can happen.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g..._dyno_testing/

[bmorecam]

Originally Posted by jeff4946

So does that mean the SAE correction I did is right? I'm not understanding that much.

You can't correct it again once it's already corrected which in your case JDP already corrected for you. So your SAE corrected hp you got that day is whats printed on that paper. There are 2 types of dyno numbers that most dyno shops use and the ones that really matter. The SAE and STD.

SAE is just as it explain on the front page, and STD is how much you are exactly putting down at that particular temp and condition. Your STD number will change when you dyno in a 100 deg temp vs 40 deg temp. The hotter the weather the lower you will dyno, and the colder the more power you will put down. SAE will calculate the dyno numbers based on the "ideal" condition in a perfect temp compensated room.

[mydreamcar]

so what is the ideal temp/humidity where you can say, hey those are the numbers,

[mydreamcar]

Originally Posted by rtcat600man

Great article to help explain some of the differences, or at least point out that it can happen.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g..._dyno_testing/

thanks, man there is a lot that goes into, makes you wonder how true are any numbers and all you can hope for is consistancy when you get them done

[bmorecam]

Originally Posted by rtcat600man

Great article to help explain some of the differences, or at least point out that it can happen.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/g..._dyno_testing/

and that's why I always try to tell peoples to not get too wrapped on a dyno, and I know first hand how easy those numbers can play with you. You go to the dyno and you expect one thing but come out with a dissapointment. I know all about those feelings pretty good.

Unfortunately, in a world of modding there's no way to get around a dyno. I guess one can hit the track every single time you add or delete a mod but there's no guarantee that our foot will be programmed to work the same exact way on every single run either, and especially if we have to use both of our arms and legs.

At the end of the day a dyno can be a very useful tool. We just have to be realistic about what to expect and well informed.

That was a nice article mike

[bmorecam]

Originally Posted by mydreamcar

so what is the ideal temp/humidity where you can say, hey those are the numbers,

Dyno Correction Factor
So what's all this correction factor stuff anyway??
The horsepower and torque available from a normally aspirated internal combustion engine are dependent upon the density of the air... higher density means more oxygen molecules and more power... lower density means less oxygen and less power.
The relative horsepower, and the dyno correction factor, allow mathematical calculation of the affects of air density on the wide-open-throttle horsepower and torque. The dyno correction factor is simply the mathematical reciprocal of the relative horsepower value.
Originally, all of the major US auto manufacturers were in or around Detroit Michigan, and the dyno reading taken in Detroit were considered to be the standard. However, as the auto industry spread both across the country and around the globe, the auto manufacturers needed a way to correlate the horsepower/torque data taken at those "non-standard" locations with the data taken at the "standard" location. Therefore, the SAE created J1349 in order to convert (or "correct") the dyno data taken, for example, in California or in Tokyo to be comparable to data taken at standard conditions in Detroit.
What's it good for?
One common use of the dyno correction factor is to standardize the horsepower and torque readings, so that the effects of the ambient temperature and pressure are removed from the readings. By using the dyno correction factor, power and torque readings can be directly compared to the readings taken on some other day, or even taken at some other altitude.
That is, the corrected readings are the same as the result that you would get by taking the car (or engine) to a certain temperature controlled, humidity controlled, pressure controlled dyno shop where they measure "standard" power, based on the carefully controlled temperature, humidity and pressure.
If you take your car to the dyno on a cold day at low altitude, it will make a lot of power. And if you take exactly the same car back to the same dyno on a hot day, it will make less power. But if you take the exact same car to the "standard" dyno (where the temperature, humidity and pressure are all carefully controlled) on those different days, it will always make exactly the same power.
Sometimes you may want to know how much power you are really making on that specific day due to the temperature, humidity and pressure on that day; in that case, you should look at the uncorrected power readings.
But when you want to see how much more power you have solely due to the new headers, or the new cam, then you will find that the corrected power is more useful, since it removes the effects of the temperature, humidity and atmospheric pressure and just shows you how much more (or less) power you have than in your previous tests.
There is no "right" answer... it's simply a matter of how you want to use the information.
If you want to know whether you are going to burn up the tranny with too much power on a cool, humid day, then go to the dyno and look at uncorrected power to see how exactly much power you have under these conditions.
But if you want to compare the effects due to modifications, or you want to compare several different cars at different times, then the corrected readings of the "standard" dyno will be more useful.

[jeff4946]

I gotta tell ya... This makes very little sense to me. I'm not sure how there are a couple handfuls of dynod on that graph that have that additional correction, and if I'm not mistaken, on the same kind of dynos. How are those determined different, because I see no graphs saying how they were adjusted. Not arguing, but not getting this extra adjustment, without a graph to shoe how it was tested. I know those #s now start to match up against what Rod1 has posted in the LLT FI list, with comparable mods(actually less) and I thing the torque explains itself, because the gears bring the power up in the rpms. I guess ill never know, but I'm not sure we are comparing apples to apples here. Again, just my humble opinion. I really only went to baseline, but now with all these adjustments... I don't know how much I buy any of these numbers.

[bmorecam]

Originally Posted by jeff4946

I gotta tell ya... This makes very little sense to me. I'm not sure how there are a couple handfuls of dynod on that graph that have that additional correction, and if I'm not mistaken, on the same kind of dynos. How are those determined different, because I see no graphs saying how they were adjusted. Not arguing, but not getting this extra adjustment, without a graph to shoe how it was tested. I know those #s now start to match up against what Rod1 has posted in the LLT FI list, with comparable mods(actually less) and I thing the torque explains itself, because the gears bring the power up in the rpms. I guess ill never know, but I'm not sure we are comparing apples to apples here. Again, just my humble opinion. I really only went to baseline, but now with all these adjustments... I don't know how much I buy any of these numbers.

Don't let the dyno numbers confuse you too much. At the end of the day dyno numbers are just that a number. Just because you see someone put down 230 stock and another 265 does not mean the one that put down 230 really has less power. You actually have good numbers. Right around what we have been seeing with your level of mods. The baseline you established will now be the comparison factor to all future mods you install. Only try to focus on your dyno numbers. No 2 dyno are never the same.

Welcome to the world of dyno

[PoorMansCamaro]

Is there another dyno thread? I thought I posted my dyno with 100shot somewhere. I can't find it now.

[bmorecam]

Originally Posted by PoorMansCamaro

Is there another dyno thread? I thought I posted my dyno with 100shot somewhere. I can't find it now.

as a matter fact, I think I remember seeing your 100shot dyno somewhere a while back while I was looking through the forum. I will see if I can find it for you and post and update on the front page

[PoorMansCamaro]

Thanks. I know the dyno was done on oct 7th. I can't remember when I posted it though.

[PoorMansCamaro]

Actually, if u want to wait to update the OP, I'm going to dyno my car dec 3rd and get torque numbers.

[mydreamcar]

getting mine done tomm a before and after as I am installing BBK LT with HFC