How to Tackle? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

TwentyTen2SSRS · 08-01-2021, 11:11 AM

Okay guys and gals - have several questions for how to tackle my car now that I’ve made the successful move to Phoenix. Car was shipped down in an enclosed trailer and hasn’t seen much driving in several months.

I want to “reset” my car but am unsure how to tackle this.

My car was ceramic coated with CQuartz a couple of years ago. It’s since been refreshed with “Reload” but that is about it outside of utilizing Elixr to keep it going. Car cleans up nicely, but I see some new hair light swirls and such in all the common places and thought it’d be best to refresh from the get go.

First question - good idea? Or continue to roll with current ceramic protection?

If I want to “start fresh” what is the heat way to strip the current coating so I can re cut and buff? Dawn dish soap mixture do this trick with this stuff like I used to do with my normal wax/sealant/glaze procedure?

Seems technology is providing some really great options (see Adams Graphene) and want to do this right if I’m going to spend 8 hours doing this.

Can someone point me to a simple step by step on what they would do? ie strip with Dawn, decontaminate with IronX, cut buff with 3M three step (what I had used in the past) seal, graphene etc. I’m a bjt lost on the latest flavor of the day and am obviously by no means a professional here but enjoy the work in making my car beautiful.

Last cut buff and cquartz coating was done by a shop. Interested in doing it myself this go round.

However, it’s summer in Phoenix, 100 or hotter every day and sunny for the most part. My guess is I really can’t work in these hot conditions and would be recommended to wait u til the cooler fall temps to tackle? Yes I have a garage, but it’s just as warm in there, although no direct sunlight.

Any feedback/suggestions here?

Any help or resources would be appreciated. Thank you all in advance

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TwentyTen2SSRS · 08-01-2021, 11:15 AM

Oh shoot - also 303 Graphene vs Adams Graphene? Thoughts?

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DonM · 08-01-2021, 12:20 PM

303 VS Adams Graphene

I've never tried Adams, but the 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating has really impressed me on the two cars I've done with it. They also state that it can be used in direct sunlight on black ...

In your case, I would wash it one evening and "coat" it the next morning before it gets too hot. The 303 CAN be applied over anything that's already on the car (such as your ceramic coating) AND In my case, the 303 Graphene filled or concealed some moderate washing marring that haven't come back after several washes.

The only thing that concerned me (at first) was that the 303 is not "slick" like everything else, but that HAS NOT adversely affected the performance of the 303 at all. In fact the water shedding, self-cleaning and dust/dirt repelling properties are outstanding. It's taken over a week of 100 miles/day driving for my car to look dusty.

DonM · 08-02-2021, 03:18 PM

I know you didn't get many answers to your post, so let me offer some advice. If you truly want to remove what's left of your ceramic, you WILL have to compound or polish your paint with a machine, a random orbital polisher preferably. With the way modern spray coatings (which are not true coatings) hold up to multiple washes with heavy chemicals, DAWN will not even make your coating flinch...even if it's weakened. A true coating can only be removed by an abrasive compound.

Here's the thing, if your coating was professionally installed, then the installer almost 100% compounded and polished your car before applying the ceramic coating for a couple of reasons. 1) Ceramics don't like to stick to anything but bare surfaces (paint) and 2) They will want the paint as perfect and swirl-free as possible before applying the coating because once the ceramic is applied, if there are still swirls present, then they are there for good, there's no removing them until the coating has worn off (years?) or has been removed (compounding). You're stuck with them.

Secondly, in order to save money, car companies are using less paint on the cars. Less paint = thinner paint jobs, meaning you can only compound or polish them so many times before you burn through or make the paint so thin it fails. I'm sure you've seen cars with peeling paint and clear coat. Most of the time it's because of neglect on a thin paint job.

So my advice is simple, if it was ME, I would wash the car in the evening when it's typically cooler, dry it off and let it sit in the garage until morning. Then in the morning, use the product of your choice, be it Adam's, 303 or Turtle Wax. My recommendation is 303, because (for me) it's working awesome on my black Camaro. Next year, who knows what I'll be using.

TwentyTen2SSRS · 08-02-2021, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonM

I know you didn't get many answers to your post, so let me offer some advice. If you truly want to remove what's left of your ceramic, you WILL have to compound or polish your paint with a machine, a random orbital polisher preferably. With the way modern spray coatings (which are not true coatings) hold up to multiple washes with heavy chemicals, DAWN will not even make your coating flinch...even if it's weakened. A true coating can only be removed by an abrasive compound.

Here's the thing, if your coating was professionally installed, then the installer almost 100% compounded and polished your car before applying the ceramic coating for a couple of reasons. 1) Ceramics don't like to stick to anything but bare surfaces (paint) and 2) They will want the paint as perfect and swirl-free as possible before applying the coating because once the ceramic is applied, if there are still swirls present, then they are there for good, there's no removing them until the coating has worn off (years?) or has been removed (compounding). You're stuck with them.

Secondly, in order to save money, car companies are using less paint on the cars. Less paint = thinner paint jobs, meaning you can only compound or polish them so many times before you burn through or make the paint so thin it fails. I'm sure you've seen cars with peeling paint and clear coat. Most of the time it's because of neglect on a thin paint job.

So my advice is simple, if it was ME, I would wash the car in the evening when it's typically cooler, dry it off and let it sit in the garage until morning. Then in the morning, use the product of your choice, be it Adam's, 303 or Turtle Wax. My recommendation is 303, because (for me) it's working awesome on my black Camaro. Next year, who knows what I'll be using.

Thanks, Don! I got your email as well. Will follow this!

Original ceramic was done after they fully cut and polished my car and coating was hand applied.

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DonM · 08-02-2021, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwentyTen2SSRS

Thanks, Don! I got your email as well. Will follow this!

Original ceramic was done after they fully cut and polished my car and coating was hand applied.

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Was that video I posted any help?

TwentyTen2SSRS · 08-03-2021, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonM

Was that video I posted any help?

Yes I watched it! Now where to find the 303

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TwentyTen2SSRS · 08-03-2021, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonM

Was that video I posted any help?

Does it smell as bad he says? Lol

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chef-beavis · 08-03-2021, 10:45 PM

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=567996

chef-beavis · 08-03-2021, 10:49 PM

No time to type, but this is two Wisconsin winters and 25k miles later.

DonM · 08-04-2021, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwentyTen2SSRS

Yes I watched it! Now where to find the 303

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TwentyTen2SSRS

Does it smell as bad he says? Lol

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I thought the smell was very light, not bad at all. I picked mine up at Advance Auto Parts.

TwentyTen2SSRS · 08-05-2021, 03:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonM

I thought the smell was very light, not bad at all. I picked mine up at Advance Auto Parts.

Got some delivered next day off Amazon. Basically spray on and wipe off yeah?

Going to wash tonight and give this a go. I usually use griots speed shine after wash so May do that then top with 303

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DonM · 08-05-2021, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwentyTen2SSRS

Got some delivered next day off Amazon. Basically spray on and wipe off yeah?

Going to wash tonight and give this a go. I usually use griots speed shine after wash so May do that then top with 303

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pretty much, spray it on an applicator pad, then apply it to one panel at a time. Let it haze white (give or take 5 minutes), then buff it off.

One of the You-Tubers was doing a comparison test and the 303 failed early because he didn't let it haze up before buffing it off. He got into a conversation with 303 and learned (and admitted) it was his fault the 303 failed early because he didn't wait for it to haze.

There is no real cure time, but you DO have to let it set up and haze before removing it.

Here's that video:
Why 303 failed early

DonM · 08-07-2021, 11:11 PM

So how did it go with the 303 Graphene?

08-01-2021, 11:11 AM	#1
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	How to Tackle? Okay guys and gals - have several questions for how to tackle my car now that I’ve made the successful move to Phoenix. Car was shipped down in an enclosed trailer and hasn’t seen much driving in several months. I want to “reset” my car but am unsure how to tackle this. My car was ceramic coated with CQuartz a couple of years ago. It’s since been refreshed with “Reload” but that is about it outside of utilizing Elixr to keep it going. Car cleans up nicely, but I see some new hair light swirls and such in all the common places and thought it’d be best to refresh from the get go. First question - good idea? Or continue to roll with current ceramic protection? If I want to “start fresh” what is the heat way to strip the current coating so I can re cut and buff? Dawn dish soap mixture do this trick with this stuff like I used to do with my normal wax/sealant/glaze procedure? Seems technology is providing some really great options (see Adams Graphene) and want to do this right if I’m going to spend 8 hours doing this. Can someone point me to a simple step by step on what they would do? ie strip with Dawn, decontaminate with IronX, cut buff with 3M three step (what I had used in the past) seal, graphene etc. I’m a bjt lost on the latest flavor of the day and am obviously by no means a professional here but enjoy the work in making my car beautiful. Last cut buff and cquartz coating was done by a shop. Interested in doing it myself this go round. However, it’s summer in Phoenix, 100 or hotter every day and sunny for the most part. My guess is I really can’t work in these hot conditions and would be recommended to wait u til the cooler fall temps to tackle? Yes I have a garage, but it’s just as warm in there, although no direct sunlight. Any feedback/suggestions here? Any help or resources would be appreciated. Thank you all in advance Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

08-01-2021, 11:15 AM	#2
TwentyTen2SSRS Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 3,972 View My Garage	Oh shoot - also 303 Graphene vs Adams Graphene? Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ Cold Air Inductions CAI • Stainless Power LT's with HFC's • Flowmaster American Thunder Cat Back • APEX Scoop and WW Relocation Kit • VMAX Ported Throttle Body • Custom Dyno Tune • Pfadt 1.25" Lowering Springs • ZL1 Rims on 275 front 315 Rear • custome underlay vinyl wrap • Anvil Spoiler • heritage grill • APR Front Splitter • Custom Emblempros emblems • ZL1 Side Skirts • 416.5 whp 410 torque (CURRENTLY) Up Next: BTR Stage 3 Cam and supporting mods (in garage now)

08-01-2021, 12:20 PM	#3
DonM Camaro #4 Drives: 2017-Hyper Blue Metallic-2LTmanual Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: NE Ohio (Akron) Posts: 1,210	303 VS Adams Graphene I've never tried Adams, but the 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating has really impressed me on the two cars I've done with it. They also state that it can be used in direct sunlight on black ... In your case, I would wash it one evening and "coat" it the next morning before it gets too hot. The 303 CAN be applied over anything that's already on the car (such as your ceramic coating) AND In my case, the 303 Graphene filled or concealed some moderate washing marring that haven't come back after several washes. The only thing that concerned me (at first) was that the 303 is not "slick" like everything else, but that HAS NOT adversely affected the performance of the 303 at all. In fact the water shedding, self-cleaning and dust/dirt repelling properties are outstanding. It's taken over a week of 100 miles/day driving for my car to look dusty. __________________ Don M Supercharged LGX + 6 speed manual = FUN!! Last edited by DonM; 08-01-2021 at 12:32 PM.

08-02-2021, 03:18 PM	#4
DonM Camaro #4 Drives: 2017-Hyper Blue Metallic-2LTmanual Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: NE Ohio (Akron) Posts: 1,210	I know you didn't get many answers to your post, so let me offer some advice. If you truly want to remove what's left of your ceramic, you WILL have to compound or polish your paint with a machine, a random orbital polisher preferably. With the way modern spray coatings (which are not true coatings) hold up to multiple washes with heavy chemicals, DAWN will not even make your coating flinch...even if it's weakened. A true coating can only be removed by an abrasive compound. Here's the thing, if your coating was professionally installed, then the installer almost 100% compounded and polished your car before applying the ceramic coating for a couple of reasons. 1) Ceramics don't like to stick to anything but bare surfaces (paint) and 2) They will want the paint as perfect and swirl-free as possible before applying the coating because once the ceramic is applied, if there are still swirls present, then they are there for good, there's no removing them until the coating has worn off (years?) or has been removed (compounding). You're stuck with them. Secondly, in order to save money, car companies are using less paint on the cars. Less paint = thinner paint jobs, meaning you can only compound or polish them so many times before you burn through or make the paint so thin it fails. I'm sure you've seen cars with peeling paint and clear coat. Most of the time it's because of neglect on a thin paint job. So my advice is simple, if it was ME, I would wash the car in the evening when it's typically cooler, dry it off and let it sit in the garage until morning. Then in the morning, use the product of your choice, be it Adam's, 303 or Turtle Wax. My recommendation is 303, because (for me) it's working awesome on my black Camaro. Next year, who knows what I'll be using. __________________ Don M Supercharged LGX + 6 speed manual = FUN!!

08-03-2021, 10:49 PM	#10
chef-beavis Drives: IOM 2013 2SS/RS, Greenie, 06 FXSTBi Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Turd Town, WI Posts: 1,585	Keep hearing spray is not true ceramic, but? No time to type, but this is two Wisconsin winters and 25k miles later. Attached Images

08-03-2021, 10:45 PM	#9
chef-beavis Drives: IOM 2013 2SS/RS, Greenie, 06 FXSTBi Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Turd Town, WI Posts: 1,585	https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=567996

08-07-2021, 11:11 PM	#14
DonM Camaro #4 Drives: 2017-Hyper Blue Metallic-2LTmanual Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: NE Ohio (Akron) Posts: 1,210	So how did it go with the 303 Graphene? __________________ Don M Supercharged LGX + 6 speed manual = FUN!!