For those that are having to pull the crank pulley off. - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

ThunderSS · 11-04-2009, 08:54 AM

In order to put it back on you really need to have a longer bolt to ensure you do not booger up the first few threads of the crank..
You take a big risk of doing this by trying to use the stock crank bolt to put the pulley back on. the stock bolt will only grab the first 3 threads with the stock pulley, and with the SLP under drive pulley it wont even reach the threads..

To take care of the problem you need to head to you local Gm parts department and older this bolt.. It is 1.25 inches longer than the stocker.

Gm part Number [11570163] Pulley bolt that is 1.25 inches longer than the stock bolt.. Cost is $6
Hope this helps some of you out..

GaryTucker · 11-04-2009, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThunderSS

In order to put it back on you really need to have a longer bolt to ensure you do not booger up the first few threads of the crank..
You take a big risk of doing this by trying to use the stock crank bolt to put the pulley back on. the stock bolt will only grab the first 3 threads with the stock pulley, and with the SLP under drive pulley it wont even reach the threads..

To take care of the problem you need to head to you local Gm parts department and older this bolt.. It is 1.25 inches longer than the stocker.

Gm part Number [11570163] Pulley bolt that is 1.25 inches longer than the stock bolt.. Cost is $6
Hope this helps some of you out..

The biggest issue is to consider whether this longer bolt will bottom out and if so, remembering to stop and reinstall the older bolt once you get the pulley started. There are installers made that alleviate this concern...but they are much more than $6, so this might be an option that would work for the job.

2Tightwads · 11-04-2009, 10:07 AM

Ls7 bolt to install/bottom out pulley, supplied new ls3 bolt for final bolt down...problem solved.

ThunderSS · 11-04-2009, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaryTucker

The biggest issue is to consider whether this longer bolt will bottom out and if so, remembering to stop and reinstall the older bolt once you get the pulley started. There are installers made that alleviate this concern...but they are much more than $6, so this might be an option that would work for the job.

This bolt doesn't bottom out, but I wouldn't/didnt use it to torque the pulley down..

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2Tightwads

Ls7 bolt to install/botton out, supplied new ls3 bolt for final bolt down...problem solved.

2Tightwads · 11-04-2009, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThunderSS

What did I miss?

GaryTucker · 11-04-2009, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThunderSS

This bolt doesn't bottom out, but I wouldn't/didnt use it to torque the pulley down..

I meant if they were using a thinner pulley or something other than the set up you had...sorry that wasn't clear. I can't tell you how many bolts I've had to pull out over the years because a customer didn't "think it through" when the bolt stopped turning and it wasn't all the way in.

The comment wasn't aimed at your process. Obviously it works on the setup you are using. Nice to have an affordable alternative for sure!

2Tightwads · 11-04-2009, 01:06 PM

Looks like I missed the fact that PN # 11570163, IS the LS7 factory original crank bolt. Sorry I didn't have the PN # memorized. I get the pulley started (stop about half way) with the LS7 bolt so as not to tear up threads, put back in the old stock bolt to bottom out the pulley and torque as necessary, then put in my new supplied bolt to do the final torque/angle. Sorry we weren't fully clear, we're from TEXAS!

ThunderSS · 11-04-2009, 04:18 PM

aint no problem guys...
2tightwads, I figured thats the one you where in reference to.. that was the only smiley for it...

rex113 · 11-04-2009, 04:37 PM

Hey ThunderSS thanks for the tip,I am going to do the underdrive pulley also.Did you feel any difference with the new pulley?

ThunderSS · 11-04-2009, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rex113

Hey ThunderSS thanks for the tip,I am going to do the underdrive pulley also.Did you feel any difference with the new pulley?

That I couldn't tell,
I definatley feel a difference but that's because I did a cam swap/ Full Exhaust, and tune along with it...
Soooo....
Yeah I felt a difference...lol

DaddySS · 11-04-2009, 09:06 PM

I don't recommend that you pull the balancer on with a bolt. For those of you not familiar with the LS engines, there have been too many horror stories of damaged threads and ruined cranks. I recommend threaded rod and then pull the balancer on with nuts and washers.

2Tightwads · 11-05-2009, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaddySS

I don't recommend that you pull the balancer on with a bolt. For those of you not familiar with the LS engines, there have been too many horror stories of damaged threads and ruined cranks. I recommend threaded rod and then pull the balancer on with nuts and washers.

I have to admit I do have one of these (see below link)...hope I don't get modded (banned) for mentioning it here.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fabr...ol-pics-5.html

P.S. I don't SELL this thing...its simply a REFERRAL!

OR Hey if you want to be a baller and spend on pro tools go here... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-Ke...motiveQ5fTools

MoranoRacing · 11-05-2009, 11:18 AM

I used a summit racing pulley for my 05 GTO, and the instructions said to put it in the oven for a little while and it will install alot easier. I tried it and had no problems. I used the same bolt to get the pulley on more and then replaced it with a brand new bolt. No Problems!!

2Tightwads · 11-05-2009, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ************

I used a summit racing pulley for my 05 GTO, and the instructions said to put it in the oven for a little while and it will install alot easier. I tried it and had no problems. I used the same bolt to get the pulley on more and then replaced it with a brand new bolt. No Problems!!

I wouldn't put anything like this in the over myself (agree it works though!)BUT personally in the beginning I did use a torch to heat the center section of the new pulley once prior to install and it does slide right on. Atleast far enough to alleviate any 3-4 threads grabbing only issues. Today I recommend just using proper tools that won't cost you an arm and a leg as mentioned above though.

$6 bolt, $30 tool, or heat it and take your chances. All worthy ideas I guess.

11-04-2009, 08:54 AM	#1
ThunderSS Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: East of Houston Posts: 804 View My Garage	For those that are having to pull the crank pulley off. In order to put it back on you really need to have a longer bolt to ensure you do not booger up the first few threads of the crank.. You take a big risk of doing this by trying to use the stock crank bolt to put the pulley back on. the stock bolt will only grab the first 3 threads with the stock pulley, and with the SLP under drive pulley it wont even reach the threads.. To take care of the problem you need to head to you local Gm parts department and older this bolt.. It is 1.25 inches longer than the stocker. Gm part Number [11570163] Pulley bolt that is 1.25 inches longer than the stock bolt.. Cost is $6 Hope this helps some of you out.. __________________ 2010 Camaro SS/RS HKE Forged 416 CID http://www.fquick.com/ThunderZ28 510 HP/485 Ft. Lbs

11-04-2009, 10:07 AM	#3
2Tightwads Banned Drives: 2002 LS1 swapped into a 1994 Z Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 386	Ls7 bolt to install/bottom out pulley, supplied new ls3 bolt for final bolt down...problem solved. Last edited by 2Tightwads; 11-04-2009 at 12:43 PM.

11-04-2009, 01:06 PM	#7
2Tightwads Banned Drives: 2002 LS1 swapped into a 1994 Z Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 386	Looks like I missed the fact that PN # 11570163, IS the LS7 factory original crank bolt. Sorry I didn't have the PN # memorized. I get the pulley started (stop about half way) with the LS7 bolt so as not to tear up threads, put back in the old stock bolt to bottom out the pulley and torque as necessary, then put in my new supplied bolt to do the final torque/angle. Sorry we weren't fully clear, we're from TEXAS! Last edited by 2Tightwads; 11-04-2009 at 01:58 PM.

11-04-2009, 04:18 PM	#8
ThunderSS Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: East of Houston Posts: 804 View My Garage	aint no problem guys... 2tightwads, I figured thats the one you where in reference to.. that was the only smiley for it... __________________ 2010 Camaro SS/RS HKE Forged 416 CID http://www.fquick.com/ThunderZ28 510 HP/485 Ft. Lbs

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11-04-2009, 04:37 PM	#9
rex113 Drives: 2010 2ss silver/cyb Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: nj Posts: 200	Hey ThunderSS thanks for the tip,I am going to do the underdrive pulley also.Did you feel any difference with the new pulley?

11-04-2009, 09:06 PM	#11
DaddySS Kept The Faith Drives: 2011 Camaro SS Convertible Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Bergen County, New Jersey Posts: 418	I don't recommend that you pull the balancer on with a bolt. For those of you not familiar with the LS engines, there have been too many horror stories of damaged threads and ruined cranks. I recommend threaded rod and then pull the balancer on with nuts and washers.

11-05-2009, 11:18 AM	#13
MoranoRacing Account Suspended Drives: 2005 GTO, 1973 Camaro Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Westchester Posts: 460	I used a summit racing pulley for my 05 GTO, and the instructions said to put it in the oven for a little while and it will install alot easier. I tried it and had no problems. I used the same bolt to get the pulley on more and then replaced it with a brand new bolt. No Problems!!