01-03-2009, 01:53 PM | #1 |
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Sub-11's 1/4-What is needed?
Okay, given the powerplants we know the SS will be blessed with, what would it take in the way of the aftermarket to the car to the 575-600rwhp range? Based on the calculations I have done, and my experience with my current car, I figure this is about what it will take to get a 3900lb manual car into the 10's. Here are the stipulations:
-No weight reduction -No slicks (I'd like to be able to dip into the 10's on drag radials.) -No nitrous -Has to be emissions legal (non-California standards) Although I had a lot of experience with the LS2 in my 2006 GTO, it was never my intent to make that car a real performer, so I never really looked too deep into what it might take with a LS motor. I'd like to be able to do get to my goal without going into the internals. (Cam change is okay) and would want the car to be just as docile and steetable as it was stock. Recommendations? Edit. Title should have been "Sub 11's". Last edited by garagelogic; 01-03-2009 at 02:04 PM. |
01-03-2009, 02:03 PM | #2 | |
Drives: V45 Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Southern California
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The GMPP hot cam sounds ideal for you since you want it to be streetable and docile which it is, from what I've read. Full exhaust system... And you just might get there |
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01-03-2009, 03:12 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: S.W. Florida
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Sub 11's (600hp)
To achieve your goals you'll be looking at Forced Induction (Supercharger or Turbo setup). A head/cam/bolt on setup making that kind of HP will compromise daily driving characteristics (for most) and will not be smog legal. You will also need drag radials or slicks to run that fast. And who knows how long the clutch/tranny/rear end will last making that much HP? Also it might be easier to run sub 11s with an automatic and a nice converter (along with the above mods). |
01-03-2009, 04:17 PM | #4 |
Drives: 2010 IOM Camaro Vin 34334 Join Date: Oct 2008
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I think with the standard bolt ons, the maggie FI with intercooler, a streetable cam, tune, and the DR youd have no problems seeing the numbers you are looking for. All while remaining legal.
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01-03-2009, 05:09 PM | #5 |
Drives: nothin Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: havelock, nc
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http://www.race-cars.net/calculators/et_calculator.html
580hp = 10.99448ET 580hp with only bolt-ons? I don't understand. You are willing to go forced induction but you don't want to replace your internals. that doesn't make sense to me. lets see if its possible... 420hp stock 50hp cold air, LT's, full exhaust 20hp ignition 40hp cam(docile and streetable as it was stock) ______ 550hp 550x.06=33hp/lb of psi 33hp x 7 psi = 231hp 550+231=781hp after parasitic loss i think you'll be looking closer to 680-690 give or take now dont quote me on these numbers they are all estimates. with all this your car would rub sub-11s, but it would not be "docile" by any means, nor would it be streetable as stock(unless you were looking at a stock ZR1) Last edited by blackedoutss; 01-03-2009 at 05:23 PM. |
01-03-2009, 08:39 PM | #6 | |
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350rwhp stock 50hp cold air, LT's, full exhaust 20hp ignition 40hp cam(docile and streetable as it was stock) ______ 460hp 460x.06=27.6hp/lb of psi 27.6hp x 7 psi = 193.2hp 460+193.2=653rwhp Based on that number and a 4120lb weight, that should get me in the high 10's at 125+mph if traction is not an issue. |
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01-03-2009, 08:41 PM | #7 | |
Drives: police interceptor Join Date: Nov 2008
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Quote:
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01-03-2009, 08:43 PM | #8 |
Go Rays!
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01-03-2009, 08:50 PM | #9 |
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01-03-2009, 08:57 PM | #10 |
Drives: nothin Join Date: Nov 2008
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i figured up 781 at the crank and then took out power loss. thats where 680 came from. plus all your mods hp are crank hp, add them all together and then take out loss to get rwhp
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01-03-2009, 09:04 PM | #11 |
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Drives: 4th Gen Join Date: Oct 2008
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You'll definitely need FI or spray to get there. FI or spray either one, can be made to be near stock docile, but are you concerned about durability/longevity? Without building a forged short-block, you will definitely be shortening its lifespan, even with good tuning. I mean, if you plan on building a short block like next year or the year after, and only plan on putting say, 10K miles on it a year, then you could certainly do this. Sure some get 50K on an FI stock shortblock...I tend to be conservative and use the "worst case senerio" on my figuring, because the last thing you want to do is pour all your money into mods, only to break something, then have no money left to fix it...I'd just plan accordingly.
I'd also decide on goals, since this car has the ability to corner (unlike MOST previous f-bodies...not talking about you road race guys), do you just want to go fast in a straight line, or do you want to hit a track day or two at the road course. A turbo/Centrifugal SC set up would be better for straight line speed, but something like a TVS or other positive displacement SC would be better for road course type power (d/t heat, and linear power delivery). Just my $0.02.
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01-03-2009, 09:42 PM | #12 |
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I agree you'll have to go FI. And I also agree that you won't be able to safely go more than about 7PSI on the boost. The CR on the LS3 is just a tad too high... IMHO
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01-04-2009, 07:39 AM | #13 |
Drives: 2010 IOM Camaro Vin 34334 Join Date: Oct 2008
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From what I gathered looking around for myself on superchargers there are quite a few for the ls3 vette. Most are making around the 600hp marker to the tires with just the FI and no other mods. So with a cam for FI and a few other add ons you could see around the 700hp marker with no problems. Also GTA most of the kits designed for the ls3 are around 6psi so you were right on the money with your guess.
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01-04-2009, 08:11 AM | #14 |
Drives: 2008 Cobalt SS/TC Join Date: Dec 2008
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Love these kinda post!
Thanks for the post. Real informative, especially since I am forced induction kinda guy.
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