Anyone Know anything about Tile? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

rudack · 08-21-2010, 01:10 PM

This is about as off topic as it gets.

The wife and I finally purchased a home and the tile needs to be replaced. Apparently the people before us did a really bad job. Mostly all the tiles are starting to pop up from the floor. We had a few companies come over and tell us, “mind as well do the whole floor”, once they start to remove the bad tiles, they all are going to come up. Does anyone know what the average price for removal and installation per square foot?

Ceramic vs. porcelain, I know the pros and cons but I noticed that the porcelain these days has a glazed surface just like ceramic. They guy at the store said save your money get ceramic unless you get really high end porcelain 3.80+ Sqft . He also said the materials are now very close in terms of durability. Any truth to that, what so ever?

CatiaJockey · 08-21-2010, 04:42 PM

I'd go ceramic, they are durable and super easy to install. Get yourself a $99 wet saw and you'll have it licked. My wife laid the kitchen and bathrooms in our house and it came out great. I made all the cuts for her, but she did the rest.

Turtle · 08-21-2010, 05:30 PM

it would probably depend on where you live. It's a lot cheaper where I live now for repairs etc than where I moved from. I would figure a few estimates would give you a good "going rate" for the area.

67motorcat · 08-21-2010, 06:11 PM

7 to 9 dollars a sq. ft. is about the average price for R and R.

If on a slab a little less,on a sub-floor a little more.

If your tiles are popping up I would guess you have a sub-floor that does not have a backer board installed or has one incorrectly installed.It should be glued AND screwed.

Tile pops on a slab are rare unless the job was totally botched.

Just about any tile designed for floor use today is good to go,it's all in the installation.

Of course if you drop a frying pan on it,well keep some spares in the garage from the same batch.

jsharp · 08-21-2010, 09:14 PM

Wife and I just tiled the whole screened in porch 200 square feet. We did it ourself with slate (which I think was harder than regular tile would be) and we bought the duraflex2 which offers most flex and slapped it on and laid the tile. We have had a couple of corners break but after we started paying more attention to them as we laid them down and put extra morta at hollow points. It was very difficult and I would do it again but damn I respect the price it cost to install. As far as uninstall BUST THAT SHIT UP MAN and save some cost on that end!!! Tile is pricey!! You look at a 2 dollar tile figure up the square feet and think oh not so bad and then the materials are almost as much or atleast half of what the tile cost!!!

gml1998 · 08-21-2010, 11:03 PM

Sounds like there is not enough thickness of subflooring.You need a minimum of 1 1/8 inches(more is better) of subflooring and underlayment,It can be all wood but preferably 3/4 inch subfloor with 1/2 inch backer board (I.E. Durock or Hardibacker).
Pull up a floor vent for the heating and see if you can determine total thickness of what the ceramic is glued to.
If it is less than 1 1/8 inches then all tile should be removed ,proper backer installed then retiled.
Subfloor flexing is tiles worst enemy and is a very common cause for failure.

jas60hawk · 08-21-2010, 11:16 PM

I used to install tile with a friend of mine that was a contractor. If the tiles are popping do what most of the guys have said and find out about the sub-floor. There are lots of ways to cut costs, but like we told our customers "we can put in tile that you will have to replace every 5 years or put in tile that you will have as long as you have your house" The Durock is a must and make sure you use a good thinset. Tiling can be easy and frustrating. If you don't buy the cheapest stuff on the market and take a little time you can do it all yourself and then you are only out the cost of materials. You can figure whatever your costs are for materials and double it and add 10% for unexpected overages (they always pop up). This should get you in the ballpark of what it would cost to have it installed by a professional. If you do use a contractor get a couple of estimates and ask for references and call them and ask them about the contractor. Just my .02, it is your decision.

rudack · 08-22-2010, 11:56 AM

It’s all going on a concrete slab and there is around 1000sqft to do. I would love to tackle it myself but I blew my back out a few months ago. Oh well, hate to pay for the labor but maybe it’s a good thing. From what I see here I am right around where I should be from a cost stand point. Time to check those references! I saw one guys work at a tile store, he does a lot of work for them.

myold88 · 08-22-2010, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gml1998

Sounds like there is not enough thickness of subflooring.You need a minimum of 1 1/8 inches(more is better) of subflooring and underlayment,It can be all wood but preferably 3/4 inch subfloor with 1/2 inch backer board (I.E. Durock or Hardibacker).
Pull up a floor vent for the heating and see if you can determine total thickness of what the ceramic is glued to.
If it is less than 1 1/8 inches then all tile should be removed ,proper backer installed then retiled.
Subfloor flexing is tiles worst enemy and is a very common cause for failure.

Exactly- Gotta have a solid subfloor or they will crack/come up every time.

PQ · 08-22-2010, 04:24 PM

Holy shit.

You are on a slab???

It's hard to screw up an install on a slab.......

Was it laid over some vinyl or something? Crap. That sucks....

But, it's really not hard to lay tile. Especialy if you are patient. Bad back is a bummer though.

As far as ceramic or porcelain. Doesn't matter in my book. I've done both. Same to me.

2ndgenz28 · 08-22-2010, 04:35 PM

Just watch some Holms on Homes

Gotta use that orange rubber mat stuff that lets it float but stay solid.
And while your at it add some electric floor heating. Which that orage stuff will be a barrier so your only heating the tiles.

08-21-2010, 01:10 PM	#1
rudack Rudack Drives: ABM 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2009 Location: Coconut Creek, FL Posts: 742 View My Garage	Anyone Know anything about Tile? This is about as off topic as it gets. The wife and I finally purchased a home and the tile needs to be replaced. Apparently the people before us did a really bad job. Mostly all the tiles are starting to pop up from the floor. We had a few companies come over and tell us, “mind as well do the whole floor”, once they start to remove the bad tiles, they all are going to come up. Does anyone know what the average price for removal and installation per square foot? Ceramic vs. porcelain, I know the pros and cons but I noticed that the porcelain these days has a glazed surface just like ceramic. They guy at the store said save your money get ceramic unless you get really high end porcelain 3.80+ Sqft . He also said the materials are now very close in terms of durability. Any truth to that, what so ever? __________________ ABM 2SS/RS #33390

08-21-2010, 04:42 PM	#2
CatiaJockey Drives: 2010 2LT RS Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Ocean Springs, Ms Posts: 2,799 View My Garage	I'd go ceramic, they are durable and super easy to install. Get yourself a $99 wet saw and you'll have it licked. My wife laid the kitchen and bathrooms in our house and it came out great. I made all the cuts for her, but she did the rest. __________________

08-21-2010, 09:14 PM	#5
jsharp NOW CAMMED & SUPERCHARGED Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Black w/ IOM Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Ar Posts: 2,336	Wife and I just tiled the whole screened in porch 200 square feet. We did it ourself with slate (which I think was harder than regular tile would be) and we bought the duraflex2 which offers most flex and slapped it on and laid the tile. We have had a couple of corners break but after we started paying more attention to them as we laid them down and put extra morta at hollow points. It was very difficult and I would do it again but damn I respect the price it cost to install. As far as uninstall BUST THAT SHIT UP MAN and save some cost on that end!!! Tile is pricey!! You look at a 2 dollar tile figure up the square feet and think oh not so bad and then the materials are almost as much or atleast half of what the tile cost!!! __________________ Livernois Motorsports: Maggie 2300 7psi, Livernois 2C cam/L99 to LS3 Conversion, Ported TB, Rotofab w/adm race scoop, adm trans cooler,Kooks headers no cats, Kooks 3" exhaust. METCO breather. Precision 2400 Vigilante TC. Eibach Lowering Springs & Swaybars. BMR Trailing arms, BMR Rear Cradle Bushings, BMR Toe Rods, BMR Differential bushings. Vossen CV3 20's w/ 305 Mickey Thompson @25psi. Zl1 front bumper. OE Zl1 Hood and matte black insert. 556RWHP/500RWTQ L99

08-22-2010, 11:56 AM	#8
rudack Rudack Drives: ABM 2SS/RS Join Date: May 2009 Location: Coconut Creek, FL Posts: 742 View My Garage	It’s all going on a concrete slab and there is around 1000sqft to do. I would love to tackle it myself but I blew my back out a few months ago. Oh well, hate to pay for the labor but maybe it’s a good thing. From what I see here I am right around where I should be from a cost stand point. Time to check those references! I saw one guys work at a tile store, he does a lot of work for them. __________________ ABM 2SS/RS #33390

08-22-2010, 04:24 PM	#10
PQ Booooosted. Drives: 2010 Supercharged SS Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Mobile, AL Posts: 36,716 View My Garage	Holy shit. You are on a slab??? It's hard to screw up an install on a slab....... Was it laid over some vinyl or something? Crap. That sucks.... But, it's really not hard to lay tile. Especialy if you are patient. Bad back is a bummer though. As far as ceramic or porcelain. Doesn't matter in my book. I've done both. Same to me. __________________

08-21-2010, 05:30 PM	#3
Turtle Drives: 2010 1SS Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 3	it would probably depend on where you live. It's a lot cheaper where I live now for repairs etc than where I moved from. I would figure a few estimates would give you a good "going rate" for the area.

08-21-2010, 06:11 PM	#4
67motorcat Blown Cool Breeze Drives: 2011 Black on Black 2SS M6 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Pinehurst NC Posts: 1,027 View My Garage	7 to 9 dollars a sq. ft. is about the average price for R and R. If on a slab a little less,on a sub-floor a little more. If your tiles are popping up I would guess you have a sub-floor that does not have a backer board installed or has one incorrectly installed.It should be glued AND screwed. Tile pops on a slab are rare unless the job was totally botched. Just about any tile designed for floor use today is good to go,it's all in the installation. Of course if you drop a frying pan on it,well keep some spares in the garage from the same batch.

08-21-2010, 11:03 PM	#6
gml1998 Drives: 2010 Synergy Green Camaro Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Minooka Illinois Posts: 693	Sounds like there is not enough thickness of subflooring.You need a minimum of 1 1/8 inches(more is better) of subflooring and underlayment,It can be all wood but preferably 3/4 inch subfloor with 1/2 inch backer board (I.E. Durock or Hardibacker). Pull up a floor vent for the heating and see if you can determine total thickness of what the ceramic is glued to. If it is less than 1 1/8 inches then all tile should be removed ,proper backer installed then retiled. Subfloor flexing is tiles worst enemy and is a very common cause for failure.

08-21-2010, 11:16 PM	#7
jas60hawk Drives: 2011 2SS/RS Inferno Orange Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Oahu, Hawaii Posts: 47	I used to install tile with a friend of mine that was a contractor. If the tiles are popping do what most of the guys have said and find out about the sub-floor. There are lots of ways to cut costs, but like we told our customers "we can put in tile that you will have to replace every 5 years or put in tile that you will have as long as you have your house" The Durock is a must and make sure you use a good thinset. Tiling can be easy and frustrating. If you don't buy the cheapest stuff on the market and take a little time you can do it all yourself and then you are only out the cost of materials. You can figure whatever your costs are for materials and double it and add 10% for unexpected overages (they always pop up). This should get you in the ballpark of what it would cost to have it installed by a professional. If you do use a contractor get a couple of estimates and ask for references and call them and ask them about the contractor. Just my .02, it is your decision.

08-22-2010, 04:35 PM	#11
2ndgenz28 Thread Killer Drives: All Black Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: NWO Toledo Area Posts: 4,720	Just watch some Holms on Homes Gotta use that orange rubber mat stuff that lets it float but stay solid. And while your at it add some electric floor heating. Which that orage stuff will be a barrier so your only heating the tiles.